anthony1956 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Why does pedal-to-metal start a flooded engine? - Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Anthony. If you have "flooded" the engine then you have probably (assuming there's no other fault) pumped the throttle too much and pumped a lot of petrol into the cylinders. By holding the throttle fully open and not pumping you will allow the excess petrol in the cylinders to be "flushed" out and fill the cylinders with cleaner air. As the air is sucked in to the cylinders it will "clean" the tips of the plugs and the spark will then not get "drowned" in petrol and the engine will start (fire) Hope that's understanderble. So, that over, how are you? Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billyboy Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 *arrowup*unless you have SU's 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Correct, and I assumed Anthony's car had Webers but now I've read his other post I can tell him my explanation applies to cars with Webers (or other carbs with accelerator pumps which almost all except SU and som Strombergs) But, it's the answer to his question. Anthony, .9 may be too wide for the plugs. They should be ,028" (I think thats 0.7mm, but check it) ed to add: 0.028 Inch(s) = 0.7112 Millimetre(s) Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Edited by - nverona on 22 Mar 2009 17:09:45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 ECU maps usually have zero fuelling at wide open throttle sites at cranking speeds, specifically to allow clearing of a flooded engine. The behaviour mimics the aforementioned carbed setups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 aha! Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know :-) No need to disconnect the furl line, just HTWO (HOLD THROTTLE WIDE OPEN) and the Emu (more fun than an ECU) will stop fuel flow and allow a dry clean as suggested by Norman . I tried this yesterday until the battery choked. Now a bit concerned it's something else really. My car is an R500 so it has whatever one of those has. I thought it was injection, but then it has great big throttle bodies which seem more carb like - I don't know. The car is too new for me to know much about it. I can't even start it! I'm sure I have forgotten more than I knew. All's well thanks Norman! 😬 Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 will too wide a plug gap stop it starting? i.e. .9mm instead of .75mm (which is correct per my phone and my phone knows everything, mostly) key question! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Could be. If you can get a new set and gap them correctly it may help. Difficult to sort these things over a forum. The "carb" looking things are throttle bodies, you do have injection. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 ok, that's my homework for tomorrow morning, thanks - we'll see fingers crossed! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Antony on your car DON'T touch the throttle on starting unless as Peter says you think you have flodded it [strong smell of petrol] The ECU maps and IACV are set up to automatically compensate for any temperature situation. By trying to move the accelerator you are in effect removing all those auto settings and Compensation sub maps and that is most likely why the car wont start. the other possibility is that a sensor which feeed vital info to the ECU has gone faulty In which case you will need professional help. jabbing at throttle and trying to get car to fire up is making it almost impassible to start That approach is ONLY far carbed cars and again only for those who know what to do with those engines' 😬 jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 ok, so if she won't start it's a sensor problem (again). As far as I know that will be the accelerator sensor.. though if I am not touching the accelerator then what? I guess if it's ...aha, I'll check for ice. A spot of frozen moisture maybe (unlikely). I do wonder if I should remove the sensor for Winter storage. Maybe she will start :-) Anthony edit: three sensnores? exhaust (gases?), water (heat), accelerator (fuel) edit2: oh great, it's snowing again, 4 inches so far... maybe I'm just doing all this too soon. Howling gales all night, which is why I am awake at this hour. But even so, she should be startable even in the cold... ? Edited by - anthonym on 24 Mar 2009 04:26:40 Edited by - anthonym on 24 Mar 2009 04:36:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Anthony, next winter try starting the engine weekly. Bring it up to operating temprature. Just don't rev it too hard. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 My car would not start because of a weak battery even after having it fully charged. What I did is connected the battery to my tin top battery and then it started firts time. This was after the winter layup which lasted nearly 2 years for me Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi Jack, I'm using a fully charged new booster battery. Hi Norman, it's not a practical proposition, she's buried in two metres of snow all Winter. and besides, never a problem before, starts first or second turn usually. Can't do my homework as it's still snowing.. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 And I've been sun bathing...... Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 No speedos I hope Norman .... Barrfff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 only my Sigma bike speedo Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Anthonym said she's buried in two metres of snow all Winter Perhaps there is a chance then that some moisture relating to condensation during the thaw has gotten in somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 funny you should mention that. Moisture: we have humideifiers here, not dehumidifiers because our air is so dry. That's whay (I beleive) i don't usually have moisture type problems, nothing gets damp. Compare to Cheshire when I had endless moisture / corrosion problems from just one Winter there. In fact my 7 that is stored there has a dehumidifier running 24/7 for just this reason. Having said all that I cannot help but to wonder. Maybe... in which case it has to dry out some more. And hope that's not another throttle sensor. Snowed every day since so bit stuffed for the time being really. Sun bathing... we can do that on the slopes sometimes Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Perhaps there is a chance then that some moisture relating to condensation during the thaw has gotten in somewhere Prime suspect is the crank sensor IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 will it dry out given time or is it time for a new one (if that were the case) and where is it? Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 opposite side of engine from Starter in a holder at back of block down near sump line reading teeth on flywheel sometimes gets wet and can be dried with hot air gun, also check lead from it doesn't go anywhere near HT Lead jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 how many sensors are there? and what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 TPS on spindle of throttle bodies Crank rear of block at flywheel Water in Club Foot Air temp in filter housing [depending on your config] Then theres IACV stepper motor in Plenum Not sure on yours but some have MAP sensor and Some [mine] BARO There are others but they don't feed ECU so won't affect Starting or running jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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