HPC sump gasket help

[pussycat]

Just about to put back on my original sump and wondered if any one had any pointers as to why kit has 2 gaskets? Also what torque should I use when doing it back up? all help gratefully taken!

 

Edited by - Pussycat on 7 Mar 2009 10:57:59

[kenny.]

Someone may correct me but from memory one gasket goes to bottom of engine, then the baffle plate in between and then other gasket to sump.

I seem to recall smearing top gasket with a bit of silicon to hold it in place.

 

I take it you've got the set with those little awkward steel spacer things.

 

Kenny

[Lotus Boy]

What he said.

 

Goes either side of the windage plate. You will see if you have a look underneath your car.

[pussycat]

Thanks for that! Yes it does have the steel things. As you can tell I wont be attempting this unaided, but the advice will really help! Thanks!

[Paul Deslandes]

All of the above plus tighten to 'screwdriver hand tight'. The spec is 11 ftlbs (15 Nm).

 

When you have the sump off you'll see at the back of the engine the rear main bearing cap sits in the engine block casting such that where the cap meets the block, the joins are covered by the sump gasket when the sump's in place. Similarly at the front, you have the oil pump with two joins. These can leak oil so its worth putting a smear of sealant (proper stuff, not silicon) across the mating face of the block/gasket at each of these four points so that oil doesn't leak through the tiny gap.

 

 

[pussycat]

Job now done thanks to some help from JaseB! :) We followed alot of the advice but had already done it by the last post! I also took note from the VX Thread about slightly over filling the oil. Think I slightly over did it as she spat some out and up through the vents onto the screen!

 

Having done some reading it seems that can happen with just a little too much in... doesnt apear to be any major issues though. Thank you for all your help!

[Mavic82]

Having done this rather more times than I would have hoped I found a few things helpful.

1) Use after market cork gaskets not the OE ones they are easier to get a leak free seal.

2) cleam all surfaces with a acetone to get rid of old oil

3) use a small amount of RTV all round the sump and place the bottomg gasket on it (that holds one in place)

4) get some 6mm all thread and but four 3 inch long posts in to four of the mounting holes in the block

5) Put RTV round block gasket face

6) put other gasket on to block (RTV will hold it in place)

7) Put RTV on the gasket now stuck to block

8) Put your oil pick up on and baffle plate (use a plain nut on each of the studs you fitted to hold the baffle in place but away from the gaskets whilst you bolt up the pick up.

9) Puy RTV on gasket on the sump

10 ) with your third hand remove the plain nuts and put them in reach then offer up the sump and quickly spin the plain nuts on to hold it all in place whilst you put the rest of the bolts in.

11) replace allthread studs with normal bolts.

 

It's always a fiddle but this technique makes it easier I found work upside down under the car.

 

Guy

[Paul Deslandes]

Sounds like you need an oil catch tank connected to the vent pipe on the cam cover.

 

Glad it went well.

 

Enjoy

 

Paul

 

 

[pussycat]

Actually, and perhaps this is a bit obvious now I think of it, the current catch tank is a Perrier bottle! It caused me an issue at Goodwood cause the pipe went to snugly into the bottle the pressure built up. I put a hole in the bottle and it solved the issue, but I really need something a bit more sophisticated than that!