allegro Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 I am trying to change the front cambers, but cannot release the top pivot joint (not sure what it's called ). I have undone the nut underneath and no amount of banging or heaving will break what I assume to be a taper lock. Has anyone got a trick for releasing this joint question.gif Thanks Andy Mac teeth.gif Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn teeth.gif Edited by - ALLEGRO on 27 Jun 2002 13:07:32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 I changed mine last weekend. Used a sykes pickervant ball joint seperater and used plenty of grease on the rubber boot to allow the splitter to slide under, tightend it up and bang the joint split apart very easily. On re-assembly smeared a little copperease to assit any future work, good luck, phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allegro Posted June 27, 2002 Author Share Posted June 27, 2002 How much will a ball joint separator set me back ? Where can I get one from ? Anyone in the Wokingahm / Reading area got one I can Borrow ? idea.gif I'll clean your exhaust in return. teeth.gif Andy Mac teeth.gif Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 Jack car so wheel is just off the floor. Place heavy steel bar (12" ish) on the upright where the taper for the joint is. Hit bar hard with a BIG hammer. This will shock the joint free. It sometimes takes a few blows to do it but persevere. The advantage is that you don't ruin your rubber gaiter this way (which is not obtainable as a spare) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casbar Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 Use a ball joint splitter, they are only about £4.00 Also, remember, if you change the camber, the tracking will also need checking Edited by - casbar on 28 Jun 2002 08:01:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony pashley Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 If you really don't like the sound of all this, you could detach the wishbone at the inboard end and twist the whole thing with the top joint still installed. Fairly laborious, but I've done this before, for a number of obscure reasons... Edited by - tony pashley on 28 Jun 2002 08:21:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony pashley Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 But I think I only did it the once. Unlike the submission of this 'post'... Edited by - tony pashley on 28 Jun 2002 08:52:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 I just remove the brake caliper and the bottom nut and rotate the whole upright. It is a lot quicker than fighting a taper. Peterid=teal> 253 BHP K-seriesteeth.gif, no gearboxbum.gifid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony pashley Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 Ahh - that's a smarter (and easier) alternative method than the one I suggested... But then, that's why Peter is a qualified engineer and I'm a namby-pamby artist. Edited by - tony pashley on 28 Jun 2002 20:37:32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allegro Posted June 30, 2002 Author Share Posted June 30, 2002 OK I tried lots of ideas suggested to me and resorted to using a ball joint splitter. I now have two loose ball joints ready for me to adjust the camber. I also have two destroyed rubber seals. Can somebody tell me where I can get hold of these quickly. While it's in bits I will give the tapper a wipe with copperslip. Many thanks Andy Mac teeth.gif Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revin Kevin Posted June 30, 2002 Share Posted June 30, 2002 SAFETY WARNING You should not under any circumstances assembly tapers with any form of lubricant. The whole idear is that a taper locks giving a solid joint, if there is any form of contamination the joint may move , causing wear and in extremes failure. If when a taper is assembled it is perfectly dry and clean the only reason it should not come apart with a relevant spliter and a sharp tap is if the taper is of poor maching quality, (USE ANOTER SUPPLIER). To split the top wishbone joint I use a direct push spliter (about £4 at a good motor factors) and with a bit of care you should in no way damage the rubber gaiter CHRIS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allegro Posted June 30, 2002 Author Share Posted June 30, 2002 Thanks Chris. Advise taken. I still need to buy 2 new rubber gaitors tomorrow. Same question, does anybody know where to get them from, as Caterham do not sell them as a spare part ? Andy Mac teeth.gif Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 Hi Andy, Not sure about the normal rubber gaiters but I have seen that the people who do the Powerflex bushes do some replacement seals... only seen them in DT's so far so you might not get them in time Phil Waters Zetec is in and running wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allegro Posted July 1, 2002 Author Share Posted July 1, 2002 Some good news. Contrary to previous rumours, the ball joint gaitor is a stocked replacement item from Caterham at circa £1.29p each minimum order 4. So panic over. for me anyway. Andy Mac teeth.gif Team Langoustine. Hard Core Prawn teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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