Tips and tricks for forth coming build

[Stavros]

Hi please can anyone out there give me tips, tricks re build for a Classic scheduled for mid August cant wait!!!!!

 

Im getting mixed reports about the build manual and as I am hopeing to get it built and on the road from 1st September 9this year any advice would be gacefully recieved

 

Also looking forward to meet all those at Dial Post for the west sussex meet

 

cheers Keith

 

Keith J

[ROC]

There have been a lot of posts on the topic. I would search the site and then ask more specific questions.

 

I built mine last August and it took 84 hours - at least 20 of which were faffing about looking for missing bits or waiting on the help line. It really is not too tough.

 

The one tip that I have not seen covered is: to make sure that everything that you have to do to the diff is done before trying to fit it. On my car I had to shave a section off the top of the diff. I am not sure that it will be the same on your car as it is a different diff to mine.

 

best of luck

 

[Colin Grundy]

The worst is definately the wait, mine arrives in 3 weeks, agony isn't it. Can tell you though that I hear a new revised build manual is being released very soon (July) so at least it will be bang up to date.Just a word of advice, in my agonising wait I have scoured the archives and built up a very comprehensive build manual of my own broken down into sections for suspension, brakes, engine and gearbox etc. and these are from the 'experts' who have experienced the pain and pleasure of building a whole range of different models, so its worth trawling the archives and printing off anything and everything that you'll find relevant.

Good luck with the car and get gallons of waxoyl ready.

Colin

(The waits nearly over!)

[jonsharland]

is your car a live axle

is so do a search for classic and beaulieu in the tech talk as I have posted some hints and tips from my build and asked alot of questions that have been answered

 

Regards

Jon

 

**is that an old Morgan **

[tgracing]

If it's live axle'ed try my site which has some detailed build stuff on.

 

www.tgracing.btinternet.co.uk

 

 

Davebo

C7 CAR

[tom7]

One tip I was given when building mine, was that whilst the car is on its stands, before the tub gets too cluttered, go round all the main egdes and joins inside and outside with silicone sealant. There is no such thing as too much sealant if you want to keep your feet dry.

Good luck with the build.

 

Tom

[Midnight]

I dont know if you intend to do any corrosion proofing prior to your build, but i polished and used a clear spray laquer on the underside panels of my seven. its better than an underseal or paint because it allows you to keep a look out for alloy corrosion whilst maintaining a reasonable looking underside. After almost ten years you can still see your face in my underside and no corrosion. Sad bugger aren't I? p.s I also waxoyled all the tubes via rivet holes, and also between the foot boxes and the outer alloy skin, as inevitably these areas fill up with dust, sand gravel which turns to mud when wet . Regards

[Midnight]

I dont know if you intend to do any corrosion proofing prior to your build, but i polished and used a clear spray laquer on the underside panels of my seven. its better than an underseal or paint because it allows you to keep a look out for alloy corrosion whilst maintaining a reasonable looking underside. After almost ten years you can still see your face in my underside and no corrosion. Sad bugger aren't I? p.s I also waxoyled all the tubes via rivet holes, and also between the foot boxes and the outer alloy skin, as inevitably these areas fill up with dust, sand gravel which turns to mud when wet . Regards

[Midnight]

I dont know if you intend to do any corrosion proofing prior to your build, but i polished and used a clear spray laquer on the underside panels of my seven. its better than an underseal or paint because it allows you to keep a look out for alloy corrosion whilst maintaining a reasonable looking underside. After almost ten years you can still see your face in my underside and no corrosion. Sad bugger aren't I? p.s I also waxoyled all the tubes via rivet holes, and also between the foot boxes and the outer alloy skin, as inevitably these areas fill up with dust, sand gravel which turns to mud when wet . Regards

[Paul Bowden]

I am just coming to the end of building my Super light. I can not comment directly about the Classic, but the build manual was a LOT better than I was led to believe. I still have some things to complete so I hope I am not speaking to soon, but the build was a piece of p*ss. I was particularly pleased with my self (smug bastard) as I put the engine in single handed. If I can do it any one can, believe me. My diff was already prepared, anything I was not sure about a quick call to Caterham and they put me right. It has been the best fun I have had with my clothes on.

[scooby dooby doo]

some bits of the build manual aren't entirely obvious. but the main problem is that there is often a foot note saying "i hope you did X before Y". the problem is that Y was 5 pages ago and this is the first mention of X! So read it through careful and note the order things need to be done in.

 

Also don't force anything. unless there's some rubber involved somewhere (ie in a bush or the engine restraint blocks) it should all go fairly easily.

 

One other tip - cover the whole chassis and skin in newspaper and masking tape and put the wings, nose and bonnet in the spare room. then you can't scratch / dent anything.

 

Dave Hooper - dmch2@lineone.net