alextangent Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Replacing the spigot bearing, CC sell this one; does anyone else do a phosphor bronze type? I hear they're more robust than the needle roller type. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Edited by - alextangent on 2 Jan 2009 19:35:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Err not anymore? Needle bearings are far better nowdays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 2, 2009 Author Share Posted January 2, 2009 OK, ta, will order this week. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Now I'm down to the spigot bearing on the xflow, and I've read a few threads on how to remove this thing; most seem to recommend just hacking it out? The hydraulic method seems to be not that simple, or work. I did read somewhere on bc (I think) but can't find the link, that someone used an expanding metal wall rawlplug thingy to grip it and then drew it out that way? Anyoine got any suggestions? Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 If you have a barrel style clutch alighning tool then use this, simply fill the bearing aperture with grease make sure there are no air pockets in there. Next tap very hard and quick with a mallet or hammer whichever is your particular choice of Birmingham screwdriver, this will force out the bearing using hydraulics.............simple really has never failed me. If you do not have that style of alighning tool then you can use a socket or a drift of that size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 OK, sounds like a drive shaft from an old gearbox will do it. I've a couple of spare boxes and I'm going to dismantle one and use the shaft as a clutch alignment tool. ta Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Complete failure 😔 ☹️ I'm going to need another method. I think I can get a hacksaw blade in the hole and hack it out; is that a route? Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beverlonian Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Slide hammer, a long while ago and not on a se7en but I borrowed one from a local garage for a few hours and its the right tool for the job. Thinking about it and it was 25 years ago and a Vauxhall main dealer 😬. Worth a try if you can find someone that has one. Andy Lardy Aztec Orange 'n' Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Here's a home made puller (down towards the bottom) and a here and here. Might try this method if I can't borrow one... Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Found another method; It involved 1 x 13mm bolt head, slid into the bearing so that the bolt head could sit behind the bearing. This was held in place using a suitably sized stick, sourced from the garden. I then put an RA23 steering box mounting hole over the other end of the bolt, so that is was free to slide. I put two nuts, locked together on the threaded end of the bolt and pulled, a la slide hammer. Worked first time:D The most difficult part was finding a stick of the right diameter and mechanical properties. That might be modifiable. Plus, this method using wet newspaper I used the wet paper method where you stuff wet paper into the center of the bearing and hit a suitable sized bolt into the middle of it with a hammer. but that bearing as a very large surface area; the xflow bearing is no more than 2-3mm deep, with a very small surface area. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Don't forget to put the new one in the right way round. One end has a nylon seal to keep the grease in and this needs to go the rear of the bearing when installed (to clarify this, once installed, the seal should be the first thing you see when you look at the bearing, then come the rollers. If you get it the wrong way round all the grease will just run out and your bearing life will be short indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 4, 2009 Author Share Posted January 4, 2009 Thanks. Still to get it out though; the bolt method didn't work as planned (kept popping out). A bigger bolt is called for I think, perhaps ground down on one side a bit to let the stick pass into the space behind and keep the bolthead in position. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Nope, that didn't work. 🙆🏻 The roller bearings are out now, but the spigot is made of some rocket titanium nose cone material. Hacksaw blade won't touch it. Next route is a wall rawl plug and a slide hammer. Local garage doesn't have a blind bearing extractor to borrow either, so if the wall plug fails, then it's dig deep in pocket time for the real mccoy 😔 Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Yes the cage is hardened, so only a grinder will cut it. Your not having much luck with that little blighter are you 😔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Bluddy right I'm not. Garage is freezing, it's below -1degC out there, and couldn't even get the propshaft out either as my jack has decided to bleed fluid over the garage floor. No, not a bulk buy, 25 years old, but why now? Barsteward. 😔 😔 Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westfield Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Dremel is your friend here… used full speed with one if the small grinding wheels, grind through the bearing outer shell until it’s very thin and then use a small chisel to break it out… I actually have an old screw drive blade I use for this (I used to do loads of engines years ago) Unlike Peter I have NEVER managed to get a needle roller bearing out with the grease and mandrel method. I have done it with the bronze type bearing but only if it was lose anyway. If they were tight I used to tap it out which is easy as its soft material, then drop a ball bearing in the hole and tighten a bolt in the new thread. Be careful putting the new one in… I have seen them damaged by using a first motion shaft as a mandrel to knock them in. The radius on the shaft damages the bearing. I used to make a mandrel in the lathe with a nice 90 degree sharp shoulder for the purpose. I love my Elise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Thanks, I'll try that. And for advice on knocking the new one in; I see what you mean about the shoulder on the 1st motion shaft. I am going to freeze the wee bu66er and heat the flywheel with a blowlamp, add wd40 then use the back end of a socket to drive it in. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Yeehah ❗ Used the dremel, ground down the case of the bearing, hit it with a thin screwdriver and it collapsed & pulled out. Thanks for the advice. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Well done that man! Happy New Year Alex. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I love threads like this. I have no idea what you're talking about , but it ends with success, having had 3 or 4 different approaches first 😬 Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Just think if the dremmel had not been invented. 😬 How on earth would you get a 4" grinder in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westfield Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I toyed with the idea of a Dremel for years… I kept thinking “I will never use that” In the end I bought one and I have to say it’s a most useful tool! Loads of used and it works so well. I would not be without one now. Glad you got the bearing out I love my Elise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Thanks to all. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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