alextangent Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Anyone got any linkies they can post up of taking out an xflow/gearbox in a single lump? Two reasons. (1) I'm wanting to see how much headroom I need in the garage. I'll be using a load leveler and 2m straps, and don't want to get stuck with inches to go and no room to go any higher. (2) What angle will it need to be tilted to? How much clearance will there be? And will it slip off the prop shaft, or should I expect a bit of a struggle? Everything's nearly ready for the big day; just need to drain the oil from the gbox and engine. Also discovered what the heavy clutch problem was; I've bent the clutch arm. 😔 I've got a spare, but this time I'm going to fit a pedal stop. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Brown Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Alex, Can't help with photos but could help with labour if required. Thinking of taking my engine out some day so keen to get experience on someone else's. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikes Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 No photos I am afraid, but I always separated the gearbox first. Mine was a 1989 xflow and you do need quite a tilt on it to clear the front top chassis rails - don't forget to put some padding on them to save damage - foam pipe cladding works well. I would guess that if you intend to take it all out together then you will need a fair bit of clearance to crank the crane up. The prop shaft should slip out very easily - and gearbox oil will then come out of the back nicely all over the garage floor - probably even if you have drained most of it first! It also helps to cable tie the prop shaft in position before you slide the gearbox forward so it doesn't drop on the ground - it makes it easier for when you put it back. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 23, 2008 Leadership Team Share Posted December 23, 2008 I'll try to dig some out tonight unless anyone beats me to it. Regards - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Thanks to all. David, Jon Boylaw has offered his help (he lives in Fife) and once I have a date in mind I'll let you both know. You're more than welcome to lend a hand and to eat some bacon butties (mrs makes splendid sarnies as some other jock 7ers know when they helped me get out a rusted in rear suspension bolt ). If you want to borrow the crane, no problem, it's yours when you need it, and it should fit in the back seat of a wagon when partially dismantled. Takes 2 to lug about though; seriously heavy. [Added to say; the front legs of the crane are just low enough to go right under the suspension on a standard track 7, which is cool; I was concerned I would have to jack up to get the thing under the front.] Mikes -- I'm going to take out in a one-er as the gbox is getting replaced. Don't have the problem of the propshaft dropping, as it's a covered tunnel. I looked at the length of the gbox and engine, and as it's a 4 speed, it's not that long. But there's so little room at the front, say, 2.5 at max between the crank pulley and the frame, that I can't see how you get the engine off the gbox shaft in a stright line in that space Mcalvert; ta, appreciated, the garage is fairly tall but close enough that I might have problems. I can't do it outside the garage, as once the engine is out I won't be able to roll the crane back into the garage due to a 1" lip at the entrance. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Edited by - alextangent on 23 Dec 2008 13:19:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Alex it will come out in one piece BUT IMHE you will need to remove the water pump to allow it to come fwd enough to so do otherwise its fairly straight fwd jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted December 23, 2008 Author Share Posted December 23, 2008 Thanks for advice re water pump. There's a brace in front of the crank pulley too; does that need to come off? And I presume refitting is the reverse of removing, i.e. water pump back on once the engine is in situ? Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 When my x/flow came out we separated the engine and gearbox (even though the gearbox also came out to be overhauled) and then the engine comes out very easily. I'm sure I only removed the starter motor and left everything else attached. Strikes me that doing the job in 2 halves may involve less time and effort overall. Even if you do need to work outside the garage it shouldn't be too hard to move it back over a 1" lip, we managed it very easily with a 2" lip on one garage I was using. Chris Alston C7CAT 1800 Supersprint R248 ....and then I jumped in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Rich Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Hi During my rebuild of a 1969 Lotus 7 series 3 I had the engine + gearbox in and out several times for sizing up and cutting holes and so forth. I did engine and gear box together. As well as hoses electrics etc I removed only the inlet and exhaust manifolds, starter motor and alternator. Prop shaft and gear lever extension ( gearbox is a 2000E ) had to be removed but I did not have to remove the cover on the gearbox 3 rail selector. Drain engine and gear box oil. In my garage I have a 2" scaffold pole whose lower face is 80 inches above the ground, and my hoist hook at maximum lift is 16 inches below this. Pay to put something soft on the floor of the propshaft tunnel as the lift commences the gear box drops back and may touch the lower alloy panels in the tunnel and by gradually doing a bit of lift then move the car back and repeat the the whole thing comes out fine. To move the car back out of the way the gearbox tail shaft needs a small lift to clear the radiator as the car is moved back. MY car is quite old and and I know the radiator arrangement is different on later sevens so perhaps this will need checking. As you lift the pair the car does come up as the weight is taken off the suspension. Hope this helps best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Alex, Drop me a line when you want to do it.. I took off the carbs, the alternator and Starter motor, the earth straps, selector and gearbox mounts etc.. then got the engine and box supported by the hoist before loosening off the engine mounts. Also took off the propshaft prior to this (remember to mark its position on the Diff flange). The engine is lifted at quite a steep angle to clear the front rail and the gearbox will spew oil out!. I managed to do mine in a garage about the size of yours and if using the load leveller, you may struggle to get the crane high enough, so you need to keep the engine straps as short as you can. There were no real clearance issues with the crank and water pump pulleys in place so long as you can get the engine at a steep enough angle. If there are two or 3 of us doing the job, in all honesty you may not need the load leveller and the extra lift you get with out it may be needed. I am off for the Hols now. Jon Edited by - jonboylaw on 23 Dec 2008 18:45:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 23, 2008 Leadership Team Share Posted December 23, 2008 Here you go - hopefully this sequence will help... here Best of luck - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted December 24, 2008 Author Share Posted December 24, 2008 Mcalvert; ta for photos, good idea of the height I'll need now. May just be possible in the garage. Ta for other advice. I've stripped right back (off includes carbs, alternator, start motor, radiator, all hoses tc). Going to cut away the loom too as it needs a rewrap when I removed the immobiliser, and I'm swithcing the battery to the passenger side. Engine bay needs a clean, paint, hence taking wvwythring out. Jon, will let you know. Good hols to all. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... [might be able to at least move the propshaft back, otherwise I'll have to take out the entire rear end -- again. I know it doesn't clear the axle, but there's some room to move backwards. Prop is going for a refurb too. More money than sense ] Edited by - alextangent on 24 Dec 2008 15:48:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Went like a dream with the load leveller; managed it on my own too. The only glitch I had was that the propshaft didn't want to come out because I'd overdone the angle to start with, but a bit of huffing and puffing and out it came. BUT the engine mounts literally fell apart 😳 during the process. Left side mount just popped out of the rubber, and the right side rubber wasn't even connected to the base at all, and was floating free. Eek. Original problem was the clutch arm; completely todgered with a split across the mid section. I will be fitting a clutch stop this time. Clutch plate is shot too and is down to the rivets. Now for the refurb Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy couchman Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Glad it went well Alex. Must be the season - did mine this morning! My engine mountings were also a bit sloppy - it's only when the engine is out you really spot those bits and pieces that need a bit of attention... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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