Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Don't know why other thread got closed I have inherited three sets of ears. One set is 0.25, another are still on the car but the other are not, however these are not marked. How would I know what they are? I have a set of callipers, thus measured the 'topic' set of ears: Bottom back = 28mm Bottom front = 27m Top back = 25.4mm Top front (ish) = 25.1mm What are they? I intend to use Crossply slicks and want to set rear static camber at 0.5 degree negative with approximately 0.3 degree toe in. Car has widetrack. I shall obviously measure when assembled, but could anyone recommend what ear is a good base to start with 😶🌫️ 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Faulds Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Sounds like a 0.25 ear - these normally give around 0.5degree when fitted, if not, shim them to suit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Be aware that the latest wide buttress de dion tubes track parallel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 whats the point of that 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 less tyre scrub, more top speed. the rear track is also 10mm wider! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Then it should have toe in 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Faulds Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Why should it have toe in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Because you want the rear to follow the front and not over power it. Let the front only steer the car and not encourage anymore understeer than it already has. If the front width is same as rear, then ok go parellel, but it isn't so there should be adjustments accordingly. There won't be a rule for car 1 that should apply to car 2, but rough rules would apply. 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Edited by - Pendennis on 11 Dec 2008 19:42:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Just to confuse you further the standard set up used to be front set to toe out 20 minutes and rear toe in 20 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Rob, that does not confuse me at all, thats exactly what I'd expect to see. Suppose, tubes are probably cheaper to fabricate this way also shimming allows fining tuning So what ear have I got, I'm new to these 😳 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 It is usually stamped on the ear, 1.5 or 2 or 0.25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I have tried all manor of settings currently running front parallel and rear parallel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Nothing stamped on me ears but my eyes are going north Rob, even if you have widetrack or your car is track or road based the rear should toe in What do you do with it and whats wrong with it 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 actually your both wrong 😬 arch work to a tolerance for the alignment of the de dion. This could result in varying toe in and out on the same dedion. simply measure the lengths at either end of the dedion metal ear sections and you may see that there can be a variance on what should be a parallel tube I'm having some shims made to align my new tube Pen - you are clearly convinced that toe in is correct and that is what you are going to use. Thats fine 😶🌫️, but do at least consider the options from others that either setup race cars or have tried other options (against the clock) themselves - they may just have a point my new tube will run with .....with a smidge of toe out Taffia rear gunner Edited by - Dave J on 12 Dec 2008 08:29:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Dave J, I would be surprised if a de dion is spot on at either end and that is why I state shim and adjust to get to your specification. I actually set up race cars (mine) have done for years and know that for me toe in works against the clock. Dave, I only ever test against the clock I also know that for me the amount of toe in varies, depending on front track width. My tests show that if a front is as wide as the rear, it won't be required. As I said, there wont be a rule for 1 car that should apply to car 2 Altering toe on the rear alters the level of grip and I might find on this new car I now have, the level of oversteer requires significant changes that I am not used to, but as a start I shall be setting toe in. 😬 Good luck with yours 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset to let Edited by - Pendennis on 12 Dec 2008 09:46:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Taffia rear gunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Not just about following (or perhaps it is)... rear toe in give stability. Both under braking and power on. I raced against a Westie that 1st season was always spinning - driver I thought. Then he got the car set up with rear tow in. Low and behold he had a car he could handle and did pretty well after that. Add lightness, says the man with a VX :-) My 2002/2003 racing pics here General pics (mostly of 7's and cars). here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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