Winter engine starting (during storage)

[skydragon]

My Eu3 1.6 K-series seven is layed up for a while during the bad weather and pending some work being done on it. I've connected an Optimate battery conditioner to the car to keep the battery maintained during this time.

 

My question is, how often should I start the car, to keep the engine in best condition ? (it's got 10w40 semi-synth oil in it currently).

 

1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. Ali/Red.

 

Edited by - skydragon on 4 Dec 2008 16:29:49

[Jason Plato]

I would put fresh oil in it and leeave untill the spring. Starting it without bringing the oil upto 80C + will only create condensation and all sorts of nasty stuff inside the engine which will do it no good at all.

 

Keep him on battery conditioner and pump the clutch every week a dozen times or so if your garage is damp to prevent the clutch sticking. In the spring add a good load of fresh fuel and simply drive him

 

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia joint AO with Al

 

 

Edited by - Dave Jackson on 4 Dec 2008 16:34:52

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

'Him' ??

 

Aren't they all 'her' ??

 

 

[Jason Plato]

Only the yellow ones and white ones 😬

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia joint AO with Al

 

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Not the ali and carbon ones then

 

 

[Roadsport06]

I've just put in fresh oil and new mech pressure gauge, its on axle stands as I do bits of the servicing each weekend over the coming weeks as I don't think I'll get much use of it with the salting of roads.

Also, take off the hand brake but put choks behind/infront of wheels to stop it rolling back if you dont have it on stands.

 

BRG and Yellow nose now with added brooklands

[skydragon]

Thanks for the feedback.

 

I would put fresh oil in it and leeave untill the spring

 

Couple of questions/comments

 

1) So not starting the engine for many weeks (months?) won't do it any harm? Either by virtue of being stood still for a long time (bores corroding?), or when i start it up after a long time of no oil flowing round.

 

2) I was going to change the oil in the spring, my thought process being having good oil sat for months in a non-used engine wouldn't do the new oil any good. I guess you are suggesting that leaving old oil for months in a non-used engine won't do the engine any good?

[Roadsport06]

Used oil will be slightly acidic from combustion products so if you have changed the oil and got it to temp to check for leaks and oil level then you have nice new oil pumped around before putting the car away. Water and carbon dioxide are products from combustion so starting the car and not getting up to full temp will lead to condensation in the engine.

I always crank for pressure if the car has been standing a while

 

BRG and Yellow nose now with added brooklands

 

Edited by - Roadsport06 on 4 Dec 2008 16:56:29

[skydragon]

Thanks, sounds like I need to do an oil/filter change over the Christmas break (as well as remove the blue sump foam, mod the gasket etc)

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

oooooh - sump foam removal/gasket drilling - a definite mod to do over Christmas. Nasty stuff that foam !

 

 

[Mavic82]

Also being into boats the winter 'mothballing' of the engine is important and if not done correctly it can lead to internal corrosion if the garage is damp.

 

Step one - check antifreeze level and concentrate is OK

Step two - run engine to normal operating temp

Step three - whilst the engine is running spray fogging oil into the inlet until engine stalls

Step four - slacken all belts

Step five - disconnect battery

Now go watch telly for 4 months 😬

Step six - at the start of the year re-tighten the belts, re-connect the battery, remove spark plugs and turn engine over until oil pressure builds.

Step seven - start engine and warm to temperature

Step eight - now change your oil and filter to get rid of the absorbed mositure of the winter months.

Step nine enjoy (oh and don't forget to drop tyre pressures back from storage pressure to operating presure)

 

Works well for me.

 

Guy

[captain chaos]

I always disconnect the coil and injectors and then spin her up every 2/3 weeks just to move the oil around.

 

When I first bought my car it had only done 840 miles in 2.5 years!...I did about 5k in it and had the engine re-built...one cylinder had lost a fraction of liner where it had probably been started a couple of times, condensation formed and then settled in one of the cylinders on one edge of the piston ring and caused a little rust spot in the liner.

[stevefoster]

Agree about the run it up to temp - burn off all the condensation that forms acids otherwise.

I will be starting and moving mine - keeps the clutch happy too...

 

Add lightness, says the man with a VX :-)

My 2002/2003 racing pics

here

General pics (mostly of 7's and cars).

here

 

[TomB]

Id better get in the garage on Sunday to exercise the clutch & turn the engine over by hand. It hasnt turned over since put away at the end of September. Hopefully it will be OK!