DaveMorris Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Are those two small "tabs" which are bolted to the front N/S and rear O/S of the engine really man-enough to lift this huge piece of iron-mongery out of the car (with gearbox still attached). ? (Engine crane and load leveller being used) Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Yes. Although they were never designed to lift with a rear drive gearbox, and make sure if you do use them that you have the right grade of bolt through them and not stainless steel !! 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 My engine's been in and out more times than I can remember using those tabs but I agree with Peter that you should use the right bolts. If you're really worried put some ratchet straps around it to catch it if anything fails - and don't stand underneath it 😬 If you haven't done this before its a good idea to have a bung to go in the tail of the gearbox when the prop shaft comes out, or you'll have a lot of gearbox oil all over the floor and the engine bay. At least cover everything up and have a bowl to catch the oil as the engine tilts. When my gearbox was new it came with a plastic bung that I managed to hang on to. Its a blanked off cylinder about 2 inches long and fits snugly into the rear seal. If you want to try and make one I could measure mine and send you the dimensions. Maybe someone near you can lend you one. It does save an awful lot of mess. You either need a helper to fit it at the right moment or be very quick on your feet and able to get under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 always split gearbox from the engine with my 2L vx, leaving bell housing and gearbox in situ, wont come out otherwise, i dont have removable diagonals in the engine bay and it is a really close fit, enging needs twisting and tilting as it comes out, really a two person job. Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Yes, I always split engine from gearbox also. I'ts enough of a lump without the box ! You can make a sealing sleeve from one of the aftermarket chromed straight exhaust tail trims (I have). Sizes below Sleeve for sealing output shaft to prevent oil loss during gearbox removal 1.375" o/d x 1.1" bore x 2" nominal length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garibaldi Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Agree with above... I always split the engine and gear box at the bell housing when removing it. Even with the removable diagonals it is a large heavy piece of iron work to shift and can do quite a bit of damage if it gets out of control.... though it is not difficult to do. Ideally a 2 man job.. Use a condom or rubber glove taped over water pump exit as well as this tends to shed undrained coolant over everything... Have fun.. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 Thanks for the comments (and reassurance !) With the x-flow I always seperated the two chunks of metal. First time engine out with the Vx. Might separate - but it has the in-bellhousing dry sump tank and I wanted to try and keep them both togethor until out of the engine bay. Thankfully I've got the removable diagonal (already out) so that will make life easier. ECR - I'll try and get an exhaust tail trim of the dimensions you specify (or fab something up from a plastic cap) Garibaldi - I think I'll go for the rubber glove option (MUCH easier to obtain in our house than a condom - unless my eldest lad has some, in which case I think that he and I would need to talk 😳) Paul - I think a ratchet strap, a belt and an old pair of braces will all be used in conjunction with the lifting beam Peter - they were still attached to the engine when I bought the car (excess weight I know !) so I'll check the bolts that they're held in with (just in case). Thanks all, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 On my car (with my old in bellhousing tank) it always proved difficult to undo the 2 top 12mm bellhousing to block allen screws. I finaly found that attacking them through the gear lever apperture inside the car, using a socket extension with a wobble tip was easiest. I also attack the top starter motor bolt using a socket extension (from the front of the car obviously). We all have our own methods/favourite tools and I am sure there are different ways of doing these jobs. Good idea on the waterpump Gary, something I had never considered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 So how many different ways have people found to remove the s*dding top bolt from the starter moter? I know ECR is a whizz at it as we've removed and refitted my starter quite a few times recently. ----- VDU 7X Pics More VDU 7X Pics Edited by - Alex Wong on 25 Nov 2008 15:52:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 As those above have suggested split the GB and engine. After trying for some hours I never found a way of getting them in/ out whilst joined together. Worth putting some pipe lagging on your diagonals and front cruciform too to stop damage from the engine as you lift it out. Cheers Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 I've never considered splitting mine as I didn't like the idea of having to align the GB input shaft with the clutch. Potentially though I can see it would be a lot easier than getting the gearbox mount caught on the cross member, which always seems to happen 🙆🏻 Good luck with it Dave, Why are you taking it out BTW, upgrade time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Getting the input shaft aligned with the clutch splines is sometimes a little frustrating but the following helps With the engine still swung on the hoist, make sure (by looking) that the bellhousing face is as near paralell as possible with the block. A jack under the gearbox or sump as appropriate helps sometimes. I find that gently levering the engine back with a length of timber pivoted off a lower chassis member helps (don't bend any dry sump pulley flanges). Gently remember ! The pipe lagging idea also works well (I've split a length of heater hose to do the job) Edited by - ECR on 25 Nov 2008 18:42:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 So it's a man engine then........................none of this little Busa won't go in nonsense. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Dave But why.....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 So how many different ways have people found to remove the s*dding top bolt from the starter moter? I know ECR is a whizz at it as we've removed and refitted my starter quite a few times recently. A lot of 1/4 inch extensions with a few wobbly bits and a ball headed hex socket and then from immediately behind the rad (from memory) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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