Dinitrol and POR15

[Stuart McGill]

Before the winter sets in and they start salting the roads etc I need to get underneath and get some protection on!! Now I realise POR15 will go everywhere and it won't be fun but its one of those things that needs doing 🙆🏻.

 

I've search already but with nothing conclusive (not surprisinly really!!).

 

So for the chassis rails etc which POR15 should I go for? There seem to be numerous sizes, packs etc but which one do I need out of these here . Is the metal ready necessary? Will the 473ml be enough for the above or am I best to go for the 'Six Pack Black Rust Preventative Paint'?

 

I was also going to get some dinitrol and again, same questions. I was going to POR the chassis rails etc and then spray this in the grot traps and maybe on the inside of the sideskins? Ideally I want something that is not going to make me filthy everytime I open the bonnet so which is the best? Cavity Wax? Corromax? Converust? etc

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

Stuart

[Tonycaterham]

Stuart,

 

I have used the metal ready on all sorts of things( metal) and found it very good.

 

Having bought a large can of POR15 and wasted it, I would buy the little 6 pack as I have now done.

 

The problem is that unless you are very very careful the paint will 'weld' the lid to the can making it very difficult to re-open after inital use.

 

The warning about getting it on your hands is all true as I found to my cost so best to invest in a box of latex disposable gloves.

 

 

 

Tony

 

L7 EVL

[Shaun_E]

Metal ready is not required unless painting on bare clean metal. On a powder coated but rusty chassis, the "POR15 rust prevention paint" is the stuff. The 6 pack sounds like a good idea for the reason described above. If you put 2 layers of clingfilm over the can before replacing the lid it does help to prevent the lid and can becoming one.

On the Dinitrol front I used the cavity wax following my rebuild but that was on clean surfaces. In your case the Coromax sounds like the right product. No point in spraying the inside of the skins but do spray the grot traps and where the chassis and skins meet. Basically, anywhere that steel and aluminium meet is a good place to spray.

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

[irrotational]

as above.

 

I believe the metal ready is to key/prime shiny metal surfaces to roughen them up a bit for the POR to stick better... so if you have powdercoat on the chassis already im not sure what to suggest?

 

POR is very sticky - latex gloves essential

 

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my mind is blank....

[Alex Wong1697456877]

Dinitrol stuff is ok but POR15 seems better. Looks awful though so be ready to spray over it with some black satin hammerite.

[Tonycaterham]

Hi,

 

I tried the clingfilm..still got in a mess

 

Tony

 

L7 EVL

[The Polisher]

 

Staurt,

 

I used Dinitrol soft wax in all the grot traps and then sprayed over it wth the Dinitrol black hard wax which put a skin on to prevent dirt clinging.

 

This hard wax went on so well that I ended up spraying all inside the engine bay, the floor and in fact any bare alluminium. It is still in tact after almost 5 years use.

 

I still have the Dinitrol cans so will check the reference numbers and let you know.

 

Dave H.

Mad about S77ENS

[irrotational]

Sounds interesting - I might get some if you have the numbers/reference!

 

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my mind is blank....

[Stuart McGill]

So the consensus is that I need POR15 and two different dinitrols.

 

Should I go for the Chassis Paint Pack POR15 that contains three 118ml cans of POR-15 Black Rust preventative Paint AND three 118ml cans of Chassis Coat Black.

 

OR

 

just go for the six 118ml cans of POR-15 Black Rust preventative Paint?

 

Is the Chassis Coat Black necessary is what I want to know?

 

 

Dave, if you could pass on the reference numbers for the dinitrol I will order as you recommend that would be great.

 

Can the POR15 be painted on to both the aluminium skin and the chassis rail where the two meet in say the grot trap or should POR15 ON alu be avoided?

 

Thanks all.

 

Stuart

 

[TomB]

Im not sure Id get too hung up about which product to use - the main thing is to remove flaky powder coat, de rust, then use a decent paint in 2 or 3 coats, then seal with waxoil or Dinitrol.

 

Over the years Ive mostly used smooth hammerite with waxoil on the tubes, and its been fine. Last winter I used POR15 on the chassis when the interior was in bits- it does seem to dry harder then Hammerite, almost like enamelling but in my experience it can chip & flake off if not applied properly. Apparently Arch dont recommend any particular product, any old metal paint with waxoil I think!

[The Polisher]

 

The 2 Dinitrol products that I used are:

 

Corromax 3125 described as;

Penetrating cavity corrosion prevention.Waxy,soft,water displacing film.'

 

4941 described as;

'Corrosion prevention for vehicle underbody. Black,hard,waxy film'.

 

I bought these in 1 litre containers and sprayed on with a shutz gun and compressor. The black wax has been available in aerasol although I could not find any.

 

Dave H.

Mad about S77ENS

[acw]

I did mine a while ago, below is the advice I got from por15, in the end I removed a lot of the pwoder coating and used metal ready - got a really good finish and no flaking...

 

Mike Albrecht wrote on 25/02/2003 15:23:29:

Andrew, If the powder coating bonded well to the surface then you just need

to clean the surface with a good water soluble cleaner (marine clean) rinse

the surface thoroughly with water then scuff the powder coating and apply

the POR-15. Keep in mind if you powder coating loses adhesion over time it

will peel off the POR-15 as well. Thank you, Mike

 

 

 

 

At 02:47 PM 2/24/03 +0000, you wrote:

>Hi

>

>I have some POR-15, marine clean and metal ready on order from Frosts in

>the UK, but have a quick query.

>

>I have removed the loose powder coating on the chassis of my Caterham 7,

>but I need to know if POR-15 will adhere to the remaining coating (or have

>I got to spend a lot more time rubbing the chassis down?).

>

>Cheers

>

>Andrew

[irrotational]

Stuart - afaik POR15 is UV sensitive so should not be exposed to sunlight for long periods, plus it looks very shiny - so if doing underneath the car just use POR15, if doing wingstays or other exposed bits, then use a topcoat of the "chassis coat black"

 

I assume mos of what youer doing is all underneath the car so just get 6 POR 15's....and get a tin of hammerite or whatever if you do have a bit of wingstay to paint...

 

As I guide I had one small tin of POR and that did most of the back half of the car:-

 

The A frame

Some of the dedion tube

the chassis rails that surround the a-frame,

the flat bits holding the petrol tank

 

and i slopped it on fairly thickly...

 

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my mind is blank....

[thesheep]

I've brushed back the metal with a wirebrush on a drill so that it's very clean metal and a bit shiny.

 

Should I just put a couple of coats of smoothrite on it, or do I need some kind of primer first?

 

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