Neil_K Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 During a backward moment at Dunsfold on Sat ( 😬) I lost grip on the steering wheel and it banged hard onto full lock ☹️. When I got home, swinging into the garage I noticed that just before full lock to the right there is a notch where it clicks/knocks loudly from the rack as you move the wheel at that point. Brief, damp investigation saw the noise appearing to come from where the column enters the rack, but in honesty was difficult to see. There is also a very slight bit of play in the wheel in general. If I rotate the wheel to that point on the steering, I can get it to click/knock loudly everytime as I move the the wheel 1/2 inch around that point. Any ideas what I've broken? Where am I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted September 8, 2008 Area Representative Share Posted September 8, 2008 Sounds like you might have bent the end of the rack. Suggest you jack up front wheels and remove rubber gaiters from each end of rack and try moving from lock to lock. Closely examine the teeth on the rack and also look out for any cracks in the rack casing. If no obvious problems, it may well be worth taking rack off completely and examining on bench. You can then check to ensure no problems with stub axles. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 8 Sep 2008 14:29:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Before taking bits apart have you checked the steering column joint clamp is tights? I would loosen that off and re-tighten first. I'm suspecting that the grub screw has moved and scored the flat on the column or taken the tip of the grub screw itself. If that's not it then check the tightness of the clamp bolts on the UJ where the column meets the rack. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil_K Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Steve (or anyone), do you have a pic of which bit you mean please? Sorry to those who know it's obvious Where am I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 If you follow the steering column where it emerges into the engine bay side of the scuttle you will find a two piece clamp fitted to the column. This has a grub screw going through it. This is the part. One half shown here and the other half here. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 If that all checks ok then check the rack mounted are tight and move allowing the rack to move. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Bit of a Hijack, but this is the only thread my search returned! there is a notch where it clicks/knocks loudly from the rack as you move the wheel at that point. Whilst I have not "banged" my steering I have this loud click/knock near full lock right when the car is stationary or moving slowly, ie. there is heavy strain on it. Without doubt the click/knock is coming from the rack, at the point the column enters it under the big silver nut (it's a CC branded rack less than 4K miles). I seem to remember that at a club event someone said "this is common and the rack can be adjusted with the use of this big silver nut. Is this so and how do you do it? TIA Guy SB Lowe o *arrowup*o ZETEC CONVERSION here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Just slacken off the big lock nut, 35mm. then adjust the screw, 5.5mm allen key. I found it best to do it with the front wheels off the ground, so you have a better feel for any tightness. The adustment is quite sensitive. and only requires small changes, then of course when you tighten the lock nut, it moves the adjuster slightly, so you start again. At the risk of "teaching Granny to suck eggs" are you sure it's not the cycle wing fouling the side skin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 are you sure it's not the cycle wing fouling the side skin? Positive, I held the rack at the column end whilst someone else turned the steering wheel and you can feel the click inside the rack. Thanks Ged, I'll give that a go Guy SB Lowe o *arrowup*o ZETEC CONVERSIONhere Edited by - Guy Lowe on 13 Oct 2008 21:51:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Be careful not to overtighten it Guy as the steering will become very stiff, especially on a warm day. I guess everything expands just enough to cause tightness as clearances close up. I adjusted the rack on my first 7 in a similar manner and whilst it all seemed hunky dory in the garage and on a short trip round the block, it got very stiff on a warm blat the next time I took it out, to the point where it wouldn't even self centre properly. As Ged says it is a very sensitive adjustment and the point mine ended up at was with very slight play at the steering wheel but which ensured it didn't stiffen up when warm. Brent (aka Arfur Nayo) Toyota power It's the future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thanks Brent I will bear that in mind, will the 35mm nut be very tight i.e. will I need a 35mm socket or [whispers] will an adjustable spanner do the job [/whispers] 😬 Guy SB Lowe o *arrowup*o ZETEC CONVERSIONhere Edited by - Guy Lowe on 14 Oct 2008 10:35:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Guy - the nut isn't that tight . .. an adjustable will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 I used Stilsons 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Tony, you use Stilsons for EVERYTHING 😬 Guy SB Lowe o *arrowup*o ZETEC CONVERSION here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarchHare2008 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Just in case anyone needs to replace a narrow track steering rack I have one that I took out when I fitted a wide track quick rack. Two years use on a race car but works fine. No reasonable offer refused (but you'll need to pick up from Hemel Hempstead). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarchHare2008 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 steering rack now gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wag Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 When my front wheel got a knock, the steeing column clamp was damaged. Im not sure why it should have been. Perhaps I was holding the steering wheel tightly or its inertia is greater than I thought. Re adjusting the rack, I did it by jacking up the front and setting up a clock dial gauge on a front wheel. Slacken the rack adjuster and then tighten until the slightest movement of the steering wheel registers on the clock dial gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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