stevefoster Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Can anyone explain how these come apart? What procedure is best? My build manual is sketchy on this simple but important part. I have yet to tackle the replacement project. Also. What replacement frequency are you (particularly the stickier tyre runners) having. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Mr Big hammer, please meet Mrs Spherical Joint... smile.gif do ya still want my help btw wink.gif Phil Waters Zetec is in and running wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 But only after you have removed the circlip..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 See Phil, There you go again rushing in... Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 11, 2002 Author Share Posted June 11, 2002 Got the replacement part from Caterham. £25 each plus vat plus postage. It seems a very boring generic rose joint... I will be typing the part number in and seeing what alternative suppliers pop up. Full marks to Caterham for keeping ALL the parts I need in stock but I would not like to be ripped off. I will find out. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Martyr Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Whats a rip-off Steve if you get the correct part by return. Spares pricing in industry - what a minefield! I have always been a bit concerned at how dry and unprotected the lower ball joint looks with salty water collecting in winter and dust in summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 12, 2002 Author Share Posted June 12, 2002 Well they look like a quality part but not £25+vat... But so they should be for the work they are doing. I have not / do not regarded this joint as a weakness. They look to be made of high grade corrosion resistant material as are most rose joints etc. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 Make:NMB Type:ABWT-10 I got mine from RESB 08000 197372 Can't remember price though. Make sure that the edges of the outer race are bevelled to avoid radius in corner of housing (I have had one type that was not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 12, 2002 Author Share Posted June 12, 2002 Thanks. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 Have you changed them yet? Would it be possible to do without taking the wishbones off the car. Is the circlip on the top or the bottom. Any hard earned tips on this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 13, 2002 Author Share Posted June 13, 2002 Not done it yet. The circlip is on the bottom. Apparently the bearing needs to be pressed out / in or drifted. This will be hard to do in place I think. At the moment I have a hard time of seeing how I can get the suspension at the correct angle to allow me to get a socket on the nyloc that bolts onto the upright inside the wishbone... Spring and damper off as well I think... Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 Now done both sides. The procedure is 1. Remove wheel 2. Pop top link using a suitable splitter. The one I had did not fit when new. In fact I broke it and re-welded it together it now fits perfectly and the steel weld is much stronger than the cast iron it's made of. 3. Now you can angle the upright so the nut is central in the wishbone and you can get a socket on the nut. 4. Pop the top link together loosely as it will support the whole assembly as you faff with the bottom link. 5. Pull the bottom link out. 6. From underneath angle the centre of the joint so the circlip can be removed more easily (Get Phil to do all the under car jobs... it keeps him happy). 7. Hold the wheel assembly out of the way and tap the spherical bearing out. A suitable bolt with an extra nut is an ideal drift. 8. Pop the new joint or bearing in using a suitable sized socket as a drift a few taps and replace the circlip. 9. Refittment is the reverse procedure... Thanks to Caterham (who said the bearing would need pressing out and in) I thought the bearing would be in tight and so removed entire wishbone on the first side. Not at all necessary and in fact, removing the lower damper to wishbone bolt stripped it thread, no matter how much penetrating oil I put on it... I also removed all the load off the bolt by unscrewing the spring adjusters all the way. I now need a new 12.9 spec 2+3/4", 5/16" threaded bolt with a 1/4" hex head. Cost about 50p but then with the £5 Caterham postal charge... No way to get that bolt out with in good condition! Have others had this problem? I know Arnie had the bolt shear using rose jointed dampers though. Did that mean a new wishbone? Mercifully the thread inside the wishbone is fine. Still a good result and the old bearings were sloppy. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 Just found the price from RESB Bottom wishbone outer ABWT10 £15.70 + VAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 They must have increased the price since then, it's now the same as Caterham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 No, Caterham charge £25+vat for one. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felix.klauser Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 Steve, I think you can save the bother of splitting the top ball joint by loosening the nut on the bottom of the upright when the car's weight is on its wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 Sorry, maybe I missunderstood RESB but I'm sure the nice lady said £25 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 16, 2002 Author Share Posted June 16, 2002 I could not get a socket on the bottom nut until it was in line. This I could not achieve even with that suspension arm under full load. It was not so much the angle of compression but that of the upright slanting from front to rear. This may only be the wide track if you can undo yours and you have normal track. BTW How long do your joints (balls) last? I've had mine 5 years of road and a fair bit of track work with grippy tyres. Steve My racing pics hereid=red> Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site hereid=red> Edited by - stevefoster on 16 Jun 2002 09:01:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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