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Dry sump oil change technique


John Howe

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Picking up on something PC had said some months back

 

I have been looking for a way to suck up the oil from the bellhousing. The winter project is likely to include modifying a mobile milking machine... but meanwhile Cromwell Tools (www.cromwell-tools.co.uk) offer a Kennedy 1/2 litre capacity oil suction gun @ £6.49 + vat. Having now used this, IMHO it is well worth a try plus of course it can also be used to add oil i.e. when filling the gearbox.

 

JH

 

 

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Earlier versions of the dry sump bell/tank housing had an O ring sealing the square plate/opening. This is very easy to remove and replace, although the O rings stretch with every use so can only be re-used 2 or 3 times before a new one is required.

 

You also have to be very careful not to overtighten the assy in case you strip the ali thread in the bell/tank housing. So far (not tempting fate) I've managed OK.

 

If mine had to be sealed with sealant, like PC says, then I'd agree that it would be best left in place and an alternative solution sought. Speedy Bees has installed a drain plug/screw in his base plate. Perhaps that's easier and you have a chance of removing all the crap that inevitably falls to the bottom of the tank rather than relying on trying to suck it outquestion.gif

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I'm for Peter's logic.. the sealant route is not quick, wereas the pump certainly is and oil leaks are minimised. For me, the easier, cleaner and quicker the job is to do, then the more frequently I will do it.

 

Regarding "Speedy Bees has installed a drain plug/screw in his base plate"... I think you will find that this required a back-up plate fitted within the Bellhouse to take the drain plug thread - wouldn't this therefore mean that the drain plug was not the lowest point on the floor of the casting but rather the highest point on the sump floor?

 

JH

 

 

 

Edited by - John Howe on 10 Jun 2002 15:00:57

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