magister Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Have all the bits to fit a brooklands areoscreen to my car ie screen, mounting legs and stanchion Which is the best way to attach the aeroscreen mounting legs to the stanchion? Option 1: drill and tap the stanchion - bit concerned that the stanchion is not very thick - approx 5mm - is this enough to tap into? Option 2: drill and put a countersunk bolt (machine screw?) from underneath, with a nut (dome headed or nylock) on top - possible won't look as neat as option 1 but less chance of falling off! Any advice gratefully received PaulB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanP Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hi Paul, I went for option (2) with nyloc's - doesn't look too bad and I'm happy they're not going to come off! Jonathan Edited to say I'd recommend offering up the stanchion to your car before drilling just in case you've been sent the wrong one luckily I decided to check Edited by - JonathanP on 8 Aug 2008 18:23:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted August 9, 2008 Leadership Team Share Posted August 9, 2008 Definitely option 2 - still looks neat with dome nuts. Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 Option 1 Just don't be hamfisted tapping the 5mm thick piece Mal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Option 2 with domed nuts and a bit of threadlock Chris Alston C7CAT 1800 Supersprint R248 ....and then I jumped in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EE Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 PaulB, YHM Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Or Option 3 :- Drill through the scuttle then countersunk bolts in from the top, making it all nice and neat, with big washers and nylocs hidden under the scuttle. Makes it solid (well as solid as possible) and closes the gap between stanchion and scuttle skin. If you've chosen the stanchion that covers the wiper stubs this isn't a good option but if you've gone for the stanchion that follows the windscreen the holes in the scuttle will be hidden under the screen sealing rubber - if you ever revert back to comfortable driving 😬 Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Another vote for option 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I'll vote for option 2, as that's the way I did mine. Cut the machine screws to length & countersink from underneath. Use nylocs on top. I need to take mine off & put some adhesive sealing strip underneath as the scuttle/stanchion interface vibrates at about 1800 to 2000 rpm. Who needs a rev counter! Option 3 means you have to take the scuttle off if you want to take the aeros off. Or you play Mr Contortionist under the dash with a spanner! Option 1 may be OK; make sure you use some loctite & be precise when tapping the thread. However with my option 2 I have to tighten up the screws/nylocs every season as they do get a little loose. And yes I too got sent the wrong stanchion so do check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Molloy Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Option 2. Stainless csk allen screws Stainless dome head nuts Loctite Sticky-back foam on the underside of the stanchion to avoid scratching the scuttle paint. I had to file down the screen posts to get flat lands for the nuts (thereby damaging the chrome... ) Much measurement required as the outside posts are mounted at an angle due to the curvature of the stanchion. You have to get the stanchion perfectly bent to shape first, then offer the screen up. The final question is whether or not you can accept that the aeroscreen will sit at an angle to the horizontal. Edited by - Mike Molloy on 25 Sep 2008 15:27:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Ive got Mike's old one. Looks great with my colour scheme and fantastic to drive with it on BRG and Yellow nose now with added brooklands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I did the n°2 option and fixed the mirrors with a 90° plate tio the wingnut, but if you go for the nr 1 option use a recoil thats a safer bet than tread in the ali. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Option 3 can be done sitting in the car with sensitive fingers and a long extension for your socket, that way you can hold the screwdriver as well and don't have to enlist the help of friends or family hence avoid buying beer or loosing brownie points Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 I do have to say that with option 2 i did modify the stem holes a bit so that the nuts are vertical related to the ali. And that i did use the heads of countersunk bolts ( M5 ) underneath the nuts. Just drill oput the head with a 5mm drill. Edited by - elie boone on 28 Sep 2008 20:26:42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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