paul abrahams Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 After 3 years of very carefully driving the 7 into my very tight garage, I pranged it on Sunday, catching it on the gate, as I was blinded by the sun, so my stupid fault. ☹️ Luckily the only damage is to the drivers side rear wheel arch which has badly cracked and ripped out 4 of the riv nuts from the first half of the arch, down at the bottom. I have the new wing, and assume I just need the normal rivnuts from Caterham so is this an easy fix for a keen meddler with limited tools, or do I have to wait 3 weeks for 1 of my local ( including Caterham ) to be available to fix it. Any assistance greatly appreciated, and lots of beer for anyone who can fix it for me 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Ouch !! ☹️ Have the rivnuts that pulled out of the holes enlarged the holes too ? There was a thread on this very subject only a few days ago. Do a search in the last 2 weeks. Or - you could just stick it back on for now with Gaffer Tape - like PeterG !! 7 related photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Here you are sir ! 7 related photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 Thanks Ian Missed that thread as my home P.C. is Fubar again Would like to get it fixed before Goodwood on sunday Presumably I will need a riv nut gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I think so !! Sorry - can't help with that ! 7 related photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I bought some of the rubber rivnuts (Rubber bush with a metal threaded insert in the middle) the beauty of these is that by the time you've pulled out the old metal rivnuts the hole left is usually the ideal size for these rubber inserts to be just pushed in. The bolt expands the rubber and provides a secure fitting. They leave a neat rubber, almost flush collar around the hole and if your wing goes again they will just pull out with no further damage to the alloy skin. Think I bought them from Redline and they take the usual plastic wing bolts. Does this offer some comfort ? 7 related photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevsta Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 When I changed my wings they were of all sorts. I ended up using some of these rubber things, just don't do them too tight as the tighter you go the more the rubber expands and makes it a firmer fit (which will damage it more if you do it again). I also used some plastic bolts for the rivnuts that were still in the skin (they will break rather than damage the skin - some put a cut in them so they break even easier). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Thanks for the replies guys, I've got me a replacement wing, and ordered the plastic pieces from Redline so fingers crossed. Do I need to take any special precautions when drilling the wing, and is there a template for fixing the rear light Oh and I gave the gate such a kicking it won't be doing that again even if I do choose to hit it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I guess you have the 'luxury' of having the old wing .... make a paper template from the bottom edge - that reaches as far as the side skin. Once you mark the wing, check it again, then step back and look at both sides to see if they look level, then measure it again !! Peter Burt has replaced both his rear wings recently - I'm sure he'll be along shortly. Good luck, hope to see you Sunday. 7 related photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pburt Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 You will undoubtedly find that the bolt holes in the new wing are not in the same position as the old ones! I found the best way to solve this was to get the bottom of the front and rear positions of the wing lined up correctly and see how far out the holes are. You will probably find that by elongating 2 or 3 of the holes in the new wing they will line up and then bolt the wing in place temporarily. You can then mark the other hole positions - the rear ones you can do from the other side (ie from within the boot and the under-bootfloor areas) but the riv-nut ones at the front are more difficult - I did these by putting a dab of Tippex on the face of the riv-nut which then left a mark on the inside face of the wing when butted together. Then remove the wing and drill the remaining holes in the correct position. Good idea to put masking tape on the inside face to prevent slippage (in fact put it on before the temporary bolt up so that the hole positions are easier to mark). Having said all of the above, an alternative approach is to use the old piping as a template for the hole positions. I think there is still an element of trial and error involved though. For re-fitting the lights, I did use a paper template, as Ian has suggested. However, before creating the template from the old wing you have removed, be sure that it actually mirrored the wing on the other side! I found that on my original wings the lights were not in the same position on both sides - no wonder the car always looked a bit lop-sided before!! If the old RH wing wasn't quite right you can make the template from the LH wing and then simply reverse it for the new RH one. Before you bolt everything up make sure it all looks right - probably best without the lamp clusters in place on either side and just do a visual check on the position/level of the holes. I hope this helps. I'll be interested how you get on with the nylon bolts. Some say (incuding Tony at TSK) that the wings don't feel as "secure" compared to using the standard CC supplied steel ones. Peter Burt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 No complaints from me. I've got nylon bolts and rubber rivnuts on mine after last winter's rear end rebuild, and they're pretty secure, with no undue movement. The steel jobbies for the ordinary nutted ones in the rear panel had corroded and enlarged quite a few of the holes in the ali to well oversize; too big for a secure fit with a new bolt/nut. I used plastic bolts and rubber rivnuts for them as well. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 12, 2008 Author Share Posted July 12, 2008 Right I've managed to spend an hour in the dry outside, yes it's a sunny weekend so far, and removed all but one of the existing wing fixings. I can't get to the second one up from the rear of the 7 as it's just innaccessible with all the other bl**dy bits down there ( do I have to take the boot floor out to get to this ) Second question, I've removed the light cover and block but there does not seem to be any obvious way of removing the wiring, it all seems attached to the 2 bulb sockets, do I just cut the wiring, and re-solder when new wing is fixed on. A speedy response would be appreciated before it starts to bl**dy rain again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 NO there is a plug on the wiring it is possibly [indeed likely]to be on otherside of skin You disconnect there. jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chippy Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 If you remove the rubber grommet in the bodywork you will be able to pull the connector through, disconnect and then remove the whole light block away having threaded connector and grommet through the hole in the wing. As for the bolt fixing the wing, you should be able to get an 8mm socket on the inside(possibly requiring a small extension bar - qtr inch drive) and either a spanner or second socket on the outside. It is a bit tight but you shouldn't need to take the boot floor out. Hope this helps. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted July 12, 2008 Area Representative Share Posted July 12, 2008 I can't get to the second one up from the rear of the 7 as it's just innaccessible with all the other bl**dy bits down there ( do I have to take the boot floor out to get to this ) I don't think removing the boot floor will help much (and its quite a job to lift it. You'd have to also remove the petrol tank filler, vent and overflow, to lift the boot floor enough). Does that fixing screw into a rivnut, or is there a normal nut on the back side? My wings are fixed at that point with normal nuts. It should be possible to get a 8mm spanner or socket on the nut from underneath. here does not seem to be any obvious way of removing the wiring, it all seems attached to the 2 bulb sockets, do I just cut the wiring, and re-solder when new wing is fixed on. There should be a connector in the void between the sideskin and the petrol tank. Remove the gromet and pull the connector through. (That may well also help you with space to get at the wing fixing from the underside!) Edited by - Richard Price on 12 Jul 2008 09:46:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted July 12, 2008 Area Representative Share Posted July 12, 2008 I was too slow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 I don't think removing the boot floor will help much (and its quite a job to lift it. You'd have to also remove the petrol tank filler, vent and overflow, to lift the boot floor enough). As Richard will know I 'm getting quite good (but I don't have to do it as frequently as he does) at fitting new/repaired rear wings 😳 😳 😳 I find removing the boot floor (and making a minor modification to the honecomb around thefiller neck to make future removal easy) greatly improves access to the lower fixings Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 12, 2008 Author Share Posted July 12, 2008 Thanks guys, I appreciate the quick responses, fingers crossed for the weather now ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Part 3 😬 wing removed, luckily I've only pulled 2 of the riv nuts through, so I only need to tap the sideskin back in at those locations with piece of wood and a hammer What is the best type of drill bit to drill the wing, looks like a wood bit to me, and secondly what can I use to cut the inside lip of the wing to enlargen the holes that slot over the rear suspension components, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 the rubber expanding rivnut type thingys are aslo sold in Focus DIY centers. here is C7 TOP Taffia rear gunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 "and secondly what can I use to cut the inside lip of the wing to enlargen the holes that slot over the rear suspension components" Anything works - from Dremel, to hacksaw/round file. Depends how nice you want it to look in the end. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul abrahams Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Thanks Dave, what about drilling the wing for the large hole to take the cables to the light, what's best to use, with insulation tape I assume 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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