Ground clearance under dry sump

[CageyH]

The plastic block would merely be sacrificial, and is easier to work than Titanium.

It also won't set up an electrolytic action on your sump...

 

Surely the idea would be to set up a sump uard, rather than a skid? In impact on titanium stuck to your sump would hide any potential cracks?

 

Only dead fish go with the flow....!

[thinfourth]

Ah but you are missing the main advantage of titanium

 

 

http://www.formula1.com/photos/597x478/manual/gallery_image_main_43_7.jpg

 

 

Autotesting in Scotland tires provided by Skip motorsport services

(Well we pull them out of skips)

 

[S47zz]

80mm has survived on my car, for years of Welsh road Blatting - though I take care when driving over the growing number of Sleeping Piggys

[Bilbo]

6speedmanual

 

Its M/S or metal or is that tin 🤔 I took to one of the building site where we had some work going on and the Mechanical contractor had one of his Class One certificated welders do it for me. It not a continuous braze that would have distorted the sump. Any sort of welding would have just cut holes in the sump.

 

Brazing aluminium can be one in air it requires specialist fluxes and rods. Not sure about using a poxy adhesive, in fact I did think about doing that but its not likely to be impact resistant.

 

I also thought about a sump guard but that would make the cooling of the engine bay even worse and the tunnel already gets OTT hot.

 

The current solution has been there for at least 15 years.

 

Edit one thing that does help is the stiff front suspension so it does not nose dive a lot over speed bumps.

 

---

'Can you hear me running' ......... OH YES and its music to my ears 😬 😬 😬

1988 200 bhp, 146 ft lbs, 1700cc Cosworth BD? engineered by Roger King, on Weber's with Brooklands and Clamshell wings, Freestyle Motorsport suspension.

 

Edited by - Bilbo on 29 Jun 2008 18:07:18

[Jason Plato]

set your suspension so that the wishbones are level with the ground with the driver in, then see what the sump clearance is, then see if you can raise the engine if the clearance is less than 70mm.

 

The other major factor is the front spring rates, your best bet is to fit 250lb front springs ratehr than the std 150lb jobbies. Then you will be able to run 70mm clearance in all but the most severe of cats eyes / crests / cambers

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

[7 wonders of the world]

I run a sump gaurd in a skid fashion from the front lower cruciform to just after the belhousing, since it's gaurding a Pace DS on a K I've offset it to the near side so the oil lines and filter are offered some protection too.

 

Running on CC OE 170lb front springs with 80mm unladen I used to catch the odd cats eye on the A44 in the bottom of a compression, however now with AVO's and 225lbs up front I run 75mm unladen (horizontal wishbones) and no problem

 

Forgot to say running 185/60 x 13's up front

 

 

 

 

Too young to be old !

 

Edited by - 7 wonders of the world on 2 Jul 2008 16:45:37

[The Rookies]

Hello - been reading the Ground Clearance stuff with interest.Please can I ask a rookies question? We are just about finished building a SV 150 - and I think it needs to be a bit higher off the ground! So - How do I adjust the dampers to achieve that? (they are standard Bilsteins) Any advice welcomed! Thanks Stuart/Jon

[MADMALC]

Do your springs sit in a threaded sleeve with two lage rings? These are adjustable platforms. If they do you take the weight off the spring by jacking the body and wind the seating ring up or down having previously unlocked it from the other ring.

 

S7MAD

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Hi Rookies - have you seen topics like this one here.

 

You will need a pair of c-spanners (peg spanners) to loosen and lock the two rings together on the Bilstein unit.

 

7 related photos

[TorAtle]

With a K, isn't the highest point the cambelt cover? I haven't had one on for years so can't remember, but anyway I'm running 10mm spacers without any clearence issues. Could probably go higher if I wanted.