wittmrph Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 Hello, My 3 years 18.000 Km 1.6K now is sometimes frightenning me because the steering becommes Sticky. It's like very shortly "blocked", and then goes well again ! The last thousands kms all was well, and now after the winter storage it's getting worser and worser. I checked the whole thing but didn't notice anything wrong in the steering parts. When the front wheels are lifted from the floor, everything is easy to turn and there is no "blocking" point anymore. So I think the problem is somewhere in the vertical link, when loaded with the car weight, there may be a worn part or lubricant missing in some critical areas after the winter storage. Does anyone know what it is likely to be ? Where should I check again and where shall I lubricate and with what ? Thanks from France, R.W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 There was a dodgy batch of racks. Ring Caterham because they have fixed several. Steve Mell had this problem (in case he is around on line). Peterid=blue> eek.gifSecond loser, Class 5, Curborough May 2002id=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 this can be caused by siezed universal joint this is at the end of the steering shaft fredid=blue> eek.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 Is this different from the "badly adjusted" rack syndrome i've heard about? I'll be buying a quick rack soon (which seems to suffer more from bad adjustment) so would like to know how to tell the two problems apart and how to adjust it correctly. or am i just propagating incorrect rumours? Dave Hooper - North London dmch2@lineone.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss_Tony Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 It may be worth checking..... I had a similar problem on the way to Stoneleigh this year and thought at first it was the rack. It turned out to be the section of steering column under the bonnet by the bulkhead.The grub screw had come loose. A 2 minute fix and its been fine since! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wittmrph Posted June 3, 2002 Author Share Posted June 3, 2002 Thanks for your advices. I emailed to Caterham and asked what they think about the whole story. James: When you speak about "grub screw", do you mean the screw on the safety clamp on the steering column just between the pedalbox and the instrument panel ? I have also the feeling that this item adjustment has an influence on my problem but I cannot understand why ! This thing is actually only here to allow axial movement of the column in case of a crash. How could it affect or prevent the rotation of the steering wheel ? I also have a doubt if the upper (yellow coated) plate was mounted in the right way as you have two possibilities (recessed area on this plate against the rod or against the nut outside ?). If you want I can send you per mail a drawing explaining what I mean here. (I suppose it's not possible per the forum ?). Hoopy: How can I check if my rack is badly adjusted ? Bye ! R.W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 i don't know! smile.gif *Apparently* quick racks are often far to stiff (difficult to turn) or loose (you have to turn the wheel a bit before the rack responds) when first installed. I've only got a normal rack at the moment so I'm asking to find out for when i install the new one. I guess i'd say its wrong if its sloppier or tighter than my current one - not sure that helps you though! smile.gif Dave Hooper - North London dmch2@lineone.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss_Tony Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 That was the part which came loose on mine. It seems to hold the column from turning a small amount as well. I tried moving this part by hand and it did feel solid. James james.seven@virgin.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 The clamp should allow some rotational slop when the grub screw is not in place with the recess on the column side. The grub screw should be filed flat so that it doesn't dig into the column. The clamp must be positioned so that it is clear of the upper steering column supports. 1. Check the nuts at the bottom of the front uprights - I doubt these are loose, but it would be foolish not to check. 2. Suspect the rack adjustment, determined by the big lock nut and allen headed cylinder on top of the rack. Mark it before moving it (I use tip-ex). You will only need to move the inner cylinder by about 3mm (at the circumference) to make a significant change. First you need to determine whether the raxck is too tight, or too loose (too loose can mean that the rack rotates and binds in certain positions). Easiest to do with the rack out of the car, but can be done in situ - test each inner track rod end by unclipping the boots and twisting flexing - there should be some movement (but not rotation) in the LHS one, but the RHS should not move much at all. Adjust to suit. Peterid=teal> 253 BHP K-seriesteeth.gif, no gearboxbum.gifid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 cheers peter. That looks to be a pretty complete recipe for a happy rack. Dave Hooper - North London dmch2@lineone.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wittmrph Posted June 5, 2002 Author Share Posted June 5, 2002 Hello to all, Situation is as follow: - Seems that my safety clamp upper plate was really mounted the wrong way on my car. Have it now fitted in the same way as James and Peter. (Got a jpeg picture if someone else want to see what we mean) - Still waiting for a reply of Caterham (If someone knows a good email there please tell me) - Have unscrewed and rescrewed the pressure allen screw and nut on the rack (Just to see what's inside !). For the moment it's still approx in the same position of pressure (I had put Tipex Peter !) as before. - I also put some SAE50 Oil on the bottom of the front uprights - Now I have to find some minutes to test the car to see if something changed. If no improvement, I will try to play with the pressure allen screw on the rack and change it a few mm. Peter: When you speak from LHS and RHS, did you take in account that I'm French and my car is LHD ??? Do you know if the white plastic pressure piston under the allen screw is easy to remove and check ? Is there a spring inside ? (Mine piston was not free to move, but I did not insist). Best regards, Raphaël Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 For a LHD car, reverse my LHS adn RHS. The nylon piston will pop out, but there should be no need. No spring, but can be a bit stiff. Peterid=teal> 253 BHP K-seriesteeth.gif, no gearboxbum.gifid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wittmrph Posted June 28, 2002 Author Share Posted June 28, 2002 Hello To all, Did only the things I wrote in mail of 5 June: Tried the car many times since then and no more Sticky steering point ! Don't know where was actually the problem....! Have a bit the feeling that oiling the bottom of the trunnion helped. Best regards, R.Wittmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Woods Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 Raphaël, I'm glad to hear you've sorted your steering out. Can you post the picture somewhere so I can see it (or just email to me if you prefer) ? Nick P8MRA - The greenid=green> one with redid=red> wings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikehoile Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 I had a problem recently after changing my steering rack when the u/joint at the bottom of the steering column fouled the chassis upright very slightly. It hadn't done this before and the measurments all seemed the same so was baffled. Anyway after carefull adjustments it is OK now but the tolerance is very fine. Mike H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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