K Dry Sump Oil Change

[Nifty]

My oil ought to be changed since I haven't done it since fitting the engine 12 months ago and it is leaking slightly from the bellhousing tank bottom plate.

 

What is used to seal the bellhousing bottom plate ?

Is it wise or foolish to remove the sump too and what is used to seal this back up (it doesn't appear to have a gasket?

 

Keep off the straight and narrow 😬

[Shaun_E]

I use Loctite 574 to seal the blue plate - needs an oil free surface though to get a good seal. Shouldn't need to remove the sump as it should have a drain plug which you will need to use as there will be a fair bit of oil drained back into the sump. If you do remove the sump then Loctite 574 is also used here. Avoid Silicone/Hylomar or anything else that could clog your oil pickup.

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

[shn7]

Earlier DS pans don't have a drain plug . Simply remove the oil pipe from the right rear of hte sump pan in addition to the blue plate. The blue plate (I think again earlier examples only) is sealed with a thin rubber 'O' ring which sits in a groove in the bottom of the tank.

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

[TomB]

Until I fitted a Hellier drain plug to replace the blue plate, I always drained the oil by detaching the braided hose at the bell housing bottom RHS. I then slackened the DS scavange pump belt and turned the pump by hand to pump out as much oil as possible. You could avoid the skinned knuckles by turning the engine on the starter motor to pump out the oil, but I didnt fancy risking the engine this way!

[Mick Day]

You could avoid the skinned knuckles by turning the engine on the starter motor to pump out the oil, but I didnt fancy risking the engine this way!

Turn the fuel pump off & remove the plugs. V V small load on the engine for about 3 seconds, I don't think this will be a problem. Advantage of this method is that the oil is pumped into the tank to drain at the bottom.

 

Alternatively drive the car until oil is 50 deg C & drain from the tank immediately on stopping the engine. That's what I do.

 

I think we get a bit precious about getting all the old oil out of the system considering how often we change the oil. I can't remember a posting saying my engine went bang because of poor quality oil.

 

I can think of lots of postings though where the starter motor has been used to check oil pressure on a new engine or after changing the oil.

 

 

 

Edited by - Mick Day on 19 Jun 2008 11:45:28

[Wingnonut]

Depending on how old your bellhousing tank is you may find it has a rubber o-ring to seal it. These are about a fiver from CC but I have one lying around if it turns out you need one. I took my plate off found the ring was knackered and I had to wait for CC to send me one. Pays to get one (or two) just incase.

 

W.Nut .

 

Rosso Superlight no.087 (no longer)

[djg]

I recently changed the oil on my purple pump dry sump K series, and used a Sealey vaccum oil remover. I got the oil in the 'sump' out by removing the hose from the back of the scavenger pump that comes from the 'sump', put the car up on ramps on the near side and put the pick up from the vacuum device down the hose to the 'sump'. Left the vacuum to do the job. Overall ,bell tank and 'sump'I got ~4.5 litres out.

 

I will eventually get brave and take the blue plate off over the winter just to clear any 'debris' out that may be in there.

 

SL #57