Drivedata Video Recorders

[rgrigsby]

I've had a bit of feedback from a few people about this (RobM/Jeff), how's everyone else getting on?

 

Just wondering if anyone else had any news or thoughts?

 

There is a firmware/software upgrade available here which fixes a few things apparently so it's worth doing.

 

Cheers

 

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com

[RichardO]

It's working very nicely strapped to the passenger headrest in the Mundane-o, but my 7 is in for repairs so I haven't had chance to try it properly yet.

 

Battery life isn't long enough for a track/test day though, so I'm going to have to rig up some sort of power supply in the 7 (charger in the tintop would be easier, but would rely on me remembering to use it )

 

Cheers

 

R

[rgrigsby]

Richard adjust the voltage for the camera down to 9v if you are using the supplied bullet cam, that will make it last a bit longer.

 

I've asked about powering it of the car and they strongly recommend a regulated power supply of some sorts, nothing expensive just a box that will smooth out spikes. They've had a couple of recorders (DR2's and the more expensive £2k+ boxes) blown up in Elises etc so it's probalbly not worth the risk of powering it directly without some sort of protection.

 

Cheers

 

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com

[RichardO]

Thanks for the info. Putting together a regulated PSU will not be a problem considering who I work for

 

R

[robmar]

although not thourghly tested yet they also recommend that a full over night charge is needed, I am starting to think that even though it beeps and says fully charged maybe it isn't...

 

next event is MIRA so won't be able to test till loton i guess...

[Mike Molloy]

Err, my immediate impressions based on a couple of hours of fiddling (ooh-err missus!)

1) The front panel buttons and display are not easy to use. Took me about 20 mins just to set the time/date! I hope setting up the configuration on the PC and then downloading is going to be a lot simpler. Haven't tried that yet. If any of you PC gurus have come up with an optimum set of parameters for Caterham use I'd surely like a copy!

2) Transferring the files seems to necessitate removing the PCMCIA adaptor completely. (There doesn't seem to be a USB or Firewire lead option?) On my unit the button to do this is a bit fragile looking and only ejects the card a fraction. You need long fingernails to get it out. I have to wonder about the longevity of the contacts given repeated card removal and insertion.

3) The internal mic is very insensitive. Any ideas how to add a mic capable of picking up a decent bit of "ambience" (engine revving, tyres squealing, gravel trap crunching, that sort of thing...)?

4) Haven't had a chance to check battery life. Is it better to power the bullet cam separately? I have noticed other folk using pretty large battery packs specifically for the cam. Does it take a lot of current?

I could knock up regulated 9V and 12V supplies easy enough.

5) The LANC switch is tiny and looks very fragile. I was expecting something with a Big Red Button! Not exactly easy to operate with snowboard gloves on...

Is it just a momentary pushbutton or is there some brains in the switch assembly? Don't know what "LANC" means so not sure if it is just a push-to-close switch or is sending a coded data signal.

6) Is there any way to protect the lens of the bullet cam? I figure a sacrificial filter (UV maybe?) over the end is cheaper to replace in the event of a stone hitting it. (I run an aeroscreen, so the cam will be fully exposed to the elements.)

7) What is the best way of mounting the ECU? I was going to buy a sandwich box and pad it with foam to make the assembly reasonably waterproof.

8) Any tips on best mounting position? I have JPE screen/Roadsport cage. How do you get it pointing the right direction? If you power the cam separately will it plug into an AV monitor (e.g. a vid cam with AV in)?

 

No doubt some of the above are completely dumbass questions, so I welcome all advice from those that have already got it all up and running! Cheers.

[rgrigsby]

I can't answer too many of your questions yet Mike as I'm not up and running but I'm sure Rob/Jeff maybe able to help. The ones I can answer are..

 

 

3) I think there must be a sensitivity option as the video Jeff posted was recorded using the internal mic and the sound is very clear

4) it's easiest to power the camera directly from the unit itself, if you set the camera voltage on the unit to 9v the battery will last longer. I'm going to power the recorder directly from the car via a regulated power supply (essential apparently) so it eliminates the battery life completly and means I have single switch that turns the camera and recorder on.

5) It's not just a push to close I'm afraid, there is some type of signal involved. I haven't looked to closely at the button but at a glance it looked Ok compared with some I've seen. There are lots of other types available but they aren't cheap! (the last one I bought was £30!). There's info on the LANC protocol here if you fancy knocking something up yourself.

6) yup sacrifical cheap clear filter stuck to the front is the easiest way, the bullet cam does have a clear plastic lens in front of the actual camera which are about £3-4 to replace I believe. I have a couple lying around from previous bullet cameras

7) I'm going to mount mine under the dash on the inside of the scuttle as is, like you I'm aeroscreened but I've never had any problems with kit mounted under the dash

8) Usual position would be underslung on the cage at the rear so you can see the dash/steering wheel. In terms of lining it up you could power it off the recorder as normal but just unplug the Yellow video lead and connect that to a small screen/camcorder or in my case a free 2.5" portable TV I got given years ago that just happens to have an AV in

 

Hope that helps a bit.

 

Cheers

 

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com