Violet Elizabeth Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Have been reading the many lines on fitting Brooklands screens, as am thinking of going down this route soon. Am now confused ! Please don't laugh too much but... Which bit is the Scuttle ? What is a Stanchion ? (stantion ?) What is a Nyloc ? Hex Bolts ? Tapping ? If I get the brooklands kit (DTweeks or Caterham) will I have to drill holes in something ? If so what do I need to drill the holes with ? Sorry. Am a mechanical idiot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lagartija Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Is that the front scuttle or back scuttle ? blush.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonsharland Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Scuttle is the lip that hangs over your dashboard nyloc is a nut with a nylon bit (usally white) at the end so it locks tight. Hex Bolts I believe are bolts that need a alan key to do up ? Tapping is a self tapping screw - has a pointy end? last 2 I am not 100% on but thats what I believe I have found the best things to drill holes is with a dremell or other small craft drill Jon Edited by - jonsharland on 28 May 2002 13:15:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lagartija Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 No, seriously... Scuttle : the lump of bodywork that the screen (and dash) is attached to. stanchion : the lump of metal the screen is attached to (one either side) Nyloc : type of nut with nylon insert (to stop nut coming undone) Hex bolt : hexagonal headed bolt.... Tapping : the use of a tap in a hole to produce a thread.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Noger, Stanchion is the aluminium 'strap' that fits on top of the scuttle and to which the individual Brooklands screens are mounted. I've also mounted 1 central mirror and 2 side mirrors onto the stanchion. The stanchion then sits on the scuttle in the same way as the windscreen does using the same 4 holes as the windscreen does. It only takes me 20 mins to replace windscreen with aeros and vice versa. Having said that since I bought the aeros last June the windscreen has only been back on once and that was only for 2 days. Chris Alston 1800 Supersprintid=green> - Loud and Proud teeth.gif ...well it only sounds fast officer blush.gif Brooklands aeroscreens for that real open top motoring feeling eek.gif Edited by - C7CAT on 28 May 2002 13:43:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 I think you'll find that imperial nyloc's have white nylon, and metric nyloc's have blue. Saves all that buggering around with the wrong bolt/nut/thread combination.....blush.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Hello Blatters, still trying to confuse everybody eh? I have metric Nyloc nuts where the nylon part is Blue for M6, Red for M5 and Green for M4 - I also have some with White nylon which are M8 but I'm not sure this is a 'standard' or just one manufacturer trying to set one ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Blimey, lots of colours then...... Another theory down the pan......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROC Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Nodger, Just for your info. In theory the Nylocs should only ever be used once. After that the locking mechanism is not as robust. That is not to say many of us do not use them again. But just so you know. On another point. I was pondering buying 4 quick release bolt ends like the ones used on pedle cycles to secure my screen. Has anyone else tried this. AS I am in Sri Lanka I cannot get them here, thus cannot see them, and they may not be suitable at all. Any views? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ashurst Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Rupe, Quick release bolts on push bikes work on a cam/overcentre principle for final tightening. They still need to be screwed up for adjustment. Whilst this is fine for things like push bike wheels where the forks are open ended allowing the axle and tightening bolt to be removed without completely unscrewing, I can't really see the advantage for screen fixing bolts as you'd still have to completely unscrew them. It only takes me 15 minutes to swap my screens using normal bolts. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted May 29, 2002 Author Share Posted May 29, 2002 Aha ! Now things become clearer. Using my new found geograpical/technical knowledge I think that undoing the hex bolts holding the stachion to the scuttle (get me, eh !) require me to remove a trim panel. Now, I think these are "pop rivetted" on ? They aren't screws, but have a little hole in the middle. From a previous thread..."If the latter then they will need to be carefully drilled off and modified to self tappers". Oh dear. "Plan Brooklands" comes to abrupt end. Sounds too tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterS Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Chris Surely the stanchion is the vertical(?) thing that the screen is attached to. The stanchions are then attached to the strap across the car. I don't understand why the foot of the stanchion is the wrong way round. It stands across the line of the wind, rather than front to back. This means that it is not best placed to resist the wind loading. I had the stanchion slowly lean over as the screws failed to resist the overturning, whilst trundling round the M42. Most people seem to have changed the screws for a more robust arrangement. Some cars even change the stanchions to a more sensible detail. Perhaps Brooklands screens were designed for cars in a slower age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted May 29, 2002 Author Share Posted May 29, 2002 More confusion !! The nice man at Caterham parts dept. tells me that although the Aeroscreen stanchion fits the existing holes, it also needs to be bolted to the scuttle for safety confused.gif This seems to go against what I have read here. Help !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Noger, Windscreen is bolted to the scuttle by 4 hex bolts (2 each side)and nothing else. Drill out pop rivets (must be easy 'cos I managed it), remove knee trim panels, undo 4 hex bolts and take windscreen off (careful if you have a heated screen because there will be a connecting wire each side - mine were attached via bullet connectors and these need to be disconnected). Replace windscreen with aeroscreen stanchion (with aeroscreens attached) using same 4 holes on scuttle and same 4 hex bolts. As the windscreen (which must be under more wind pressure than the aeros) is not attached by anything more than 4 bolts I don't see why the aeroscreen stanchion needs to be. replace knee trim panels with self tappers. Robert is then your avuncular relation. Chris Alston 1800 Supersprintid=green> - Loud and Proud teeth.gif ...well it only sounds fast officer blush.gif Brooklands aeroscreens for that real open top motoring feeling eek.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 I have bolted my aeroscreens to the stantion (long aluminium bit that goes across the scuttle) and through the scuttle (the bit that the stantion is bolted to), and used some large washers to spread the load under the scuttle. This makes swapping the screens over a lengthy job, unless you have an exchangable scuttle. Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted May 29, 2002 Author Share Posted May 29, 2002 OK. Thanks. The fog is clearing ! Can I assume that the reason I need to remove the trim is that the hex bolts have something that will fall off if I undo them ? Is this the fabled Nyloc ? Another options to drilling out the rivets appears to be making an inch hole in the panel ? At some point it appears I will need to fix the Aeroscreens to the stachion. Again, from previous posts, it looks like I will have to drill some holes in the stanchion and fix with countersunk bols and nyloc ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Noger, You're getting there! My hex bolts have penny washers and nylocs on the inside of the scuttle so, yes you will need to remove the knee trim. Just drill out the rivets it will make life much simpler, honest. My stanchion is drilled and countersunk from below. I've just ditched my nylocs though and replaced with dome headed nuts, just to add that finishing touch for those nuts that show on ttop of the stanchion. If you're ever in the south east i.e Orpington you're welcome to pop in and have a look at my set up Chris Alston 1800 Supersprintid=green> - Loud and Proud teeth.gif ...well it only sounds fast officer blush.gif Brooklands aeroscreens for that real open top motoring feeling eek.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Will someone turn this echo off blush.gif Edited by - C7CAT on 29 May 2002 13:12:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted May 29, 2002 Author Share Posted May 29, 2002 Thanks Chris. You help is very much appreciated ! OK, drilling out a rivet. Just drill through the little hole ? Drilling stanchions ? Black&decker job ? Or something more specialised ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 Drilling out a pop rivet is a nice simple job, just take it slowly. You should be a ble to remove the "head" of the rivet, then use a punch to knock the rest into the chassis. Spray some waxoil in the hole to stop it rattling (and rustpoof the inside of the tube. The aluminium for the stanchion is quite soft, and can easily be drilled with a normal Black & Decker. If you are countersinking then be careful about how deep you drill the countersinks, as the stanchion isn't very thick, and it's all too easy to get carried away, and end up with insufficient metal holding the aero supports. I felt it was all a bit flimsy, which is why I drilled through the scuttle as well. I'm in Haywards Heath if you need any help or want to look at the fitted item. Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted May 30, 2002 Author Share Posted May 30, 2002 Thanks Dave. Am going to have a little go at the Rivets tonight. Not usualy near Haywards Heath, although by chance I drove through this morning, it is the red-white-and-blue bunting capital of the UK ! May take one of you up on your kind offers of a look-see if I get stuck. The parts are on order, so disaster may strike soon !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 As a rough guide, use a drill bit about the size of the rivet head. Alex Wong www.alexwong.net www.slipstream-trackdays.co.uk _________ / __ __ / ___ _//__T/__/_ ___ / (_) (_)/ /`-'/o/ _______ /o/`-'/ / /// ( VDU7X ) // / /___/--_________/--/___/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted June 3, 2002 Author Share Posted June 3, 2002 HELP !!!! Have drilled out the rivets on the panel, four next to where the knee would be and one on the "dash" just below the headlight dipper. But the panel wont budge ! I know it is the right panel as I can see the nylocs holding the stantion. Am in grave danger of bending (i.e. already have done a bit) the panel too much in trying to get it out. Can't see anything else that need to be removed. Any ideas ? Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 Noger, ISTR that when I driled out all of the rivets on the knee panel it was v stiff to remove. I think I resorted to brute force and ignorance and bent the panel to assist in removing it. This also has the added effect of making it easier to replace. Hope this helps. Good luck. Chris Alston 1800 Supersprintid=green> - Loud and Proud teeth.gif ...well it only sounds fast officer blush.gif Brooklands aeroscreens for that real open top motoring feeling eek.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony pashley Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 Noger - forgive me if I'm either too late or dumbing down the situation, but is the knee-trip panel simply ''trapped'' by the end of the piping along top of the inner side panel? These items weren't standard when I built mine and added them afterwards and the piping does baulk them if they come out again. It's only slight but can flummox if you don't notice where it's catching. (They're not rivetted under the side panel on newer cars are they? That would be a bugger...) Did you mention once that you were in S.London somewhere? Can't offer to come and help just now - I'm supposed to be hard at work (and I've also started on the Leffe Brune - to remind me of happy days at Spa...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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