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Clutch actuation set up's on Vx


captain chaos

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I'm canvassing for different options on clutch release bearing set up. I have a Vx motor with external dry sump (therefore std belhousing), cat 6 speed box and a Qtrmaster twin plate cable operated clutch.

If you have something similar, possibly with a different clutch, I would like to hear of non-caterham hydraulic/cable release bearing set up's. I've emailed Arnie seperately but have now decided to widen the search.

 

Your help is appreciated.

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Hi Captain, I´m also a running an external dry-sump-system (SBD) with the alloy Caterham bellhousing and a Quartermaster Twin plate clutch (sport), also cable-operated. Meister Wong recommended me for this setup two Burton parts, can´t find the invoice anymore. This a very neat bearing carrier and a round surface bearing. Both parts fit straight on so so won´t have to "make" anything fit. Maybe send Alex a mail offline, he gave me the part-numbers, too. Setup works really fine for me (Quaife sccr 5speed). Don´t know about the 6speeder but I think the dimensions are the same.

 

However the bearing can not be tightened to the carrier, so a clutch cable failure might result in the bearing coming of the carrier. Not a too big problem though, can be put on again with a long screwdriver and some spare time....

 

Hope this is of any help to you. Problems with your current bearing ?

 

Marius

 

P.S.: Go to bed earlier !!!

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I just fitted a co-axial hydraulic clutch onto a Mk 1 RS2000 that I rally.

 

When you use a 4:1 maniflod on an RS2 the clutch cable runs very hot and even if it ies well wrapped will still suffer from heat. If the cable fails it is a nightmare to change quickly with the standard bellhousing arrangement.

 

We threw away the clutch operating arm and bought the co-axial slave cylinder which mounts onto the gearbox in place of casting that houses the oil seal.

 

 

We hard piped the slave cylinder inside the bell housing and fitted a bleed nipple on a small bracket jst behind the hole where the clutch fork normally fits. We then fitted a small alloy cover plate over the hole.

 

We used a 0.625" master cylinder to slightly limit travel.

 

The clutch operation is very good and very progressive and we removed the potential problem with burnt clutch cables.

 

I guess the Vx isn't as bad as the exhaust is on the opposite side but I think the clutch actuation has better feel with the hydraulics.

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I have the same set up as Marius and Alex which worked fine to start but is now causing me a problem. The bearing is not staying central and is skating on the fingers causing a vibration and at times a clattering sound, particularly as revs build.

I'm going to go down the hydraulic route as described above and used by Arnie. I don't have any more confidence in the current set up and my patience (third time engine out this year) is now wafer thin!

 

Edited by - captain chaos on 28 May 2002 20:00:59

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I use a Quarter Master twin plate with a cable operated mechanism. Not had a problem as yet probably done 1000 or so miles and 1 track day.

It took a while to get the pedal/cable ratio right but it works a treat now

 

James

 

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CC,

 

Sorry to hear that it has not worked for you. Can't think why. My car has run this configuration for well over 10 trackdays and many road miles.

Better luck with the hydraulic mechanism.

 

 

 

Alex Wong

www.alexwong.net

www.slipstream-trackdays.co.uk

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I am not sure I got it ages ago from a clutch place.

I seem to think it is for a mk1 Transit!

If you get a standard bearing you can carefully remove the bearing leaving the plastic sleeve. Quarter Master sell the round nose bearings in a few different sizes. Let me know if you cannot sort anything.

 

James

 

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