How can I slow down bimetallic corrosion ?

[Nick Woods]

I have a couple of smallish spots of bimetallic corrosion on the side panels on the drivers' side of the car. One is just in front of the rear wheelarch by the tonneau popper and the other about halfway along the panel where some of the chassis tubes come together.

 

I know I cant really cure it other than by replacing and respraying the offending area, but its nowhere near bad enough to justify the cost and effort required as each area is only the size of a couple of small coins.

 

So what I would like to do is try and slow it down a bit. I was thinking of cleaning away any accumulated muck from inside the chassis and then drenching the whole area with Waxoyl. I might use a pressure washer to clean as much of the muck away before Waxoyling (having first covered the engine and electrics to stop them getting wet).

 

Does anyone know if this will help or is there a better way ?

 

Thanks

 

 

Nick

P8MRA - The green one with red wings

 

Edited by - Nick Woods on 23 May 2002 18:18:36

[neilsjuke]

Waxoyl is great for this use stand can in hot water it will spray a lot better when hot make sure surface is dry after the wash .I have found sainsbury bathroom mousse is a great all round cleaner for getting grime out of bits and bods keep it off polished alloy.Washing soda will also remove alloy corrsion mixed with warm water dont go mad with this Neil

[wag]

If you read the Magnificent Seven, it says Caterhams dont corrode. May be Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl. I bought two aerosols from Frosts (mail order), the heavier one sets to a quite hard dark brown wax.

[wag]

Be super careful with washing soda. If you leave it in contact with ali for a long time, it will do some dissolving.

[sjwb]

A problem that RR for one has never solved. Look carefully at an old RR, around the exterior trims badges etc and you may see bubbling under the paint; your phenomenon. The accepted way is to isolate the ferrous bits from the aluminium ones by seals and gaskets. An electrically sound path between the dissimilar metals may well lead to corrosion sooner or later.

 

Steve B

[Nick Woods]

Thanks for the advice about washing soda and also for confirming what I thought about using waxoyl.

 

I havent got my copy of the Magnificent Seven yet, but it seems a strange thing for Chris Rees to say, especially as a search through these forums turns up loads of comments about powdercoat coming off, chassis rusting, alloy corrosion and pitting and so on.

 

If Chris Rees reads these forums - you are welcome to come and have a look at my non-corroding caterham any time you like wink.gif - or just drop me an email and I'll send you some photos.

 

 

 

 

Nick

P8MRA - The green one with red wings

[COCKER]

I had the same issues and replaced the side skins. To prevent the accumulation of crap in between the skin and the chassis I have used duck tape to tape up this area in and around the footwell. After a cople of 1000 miles it's amazing how much crap the tape has stopped from entering the gap. I have also waxoyled behind the tape.