o/t sandblasting

[caterhamnut]

I need to blast some rust of som e(non Caterham!) chassis bits. I have the 'Aldi' type compressor - will the £22 sandblasting guns be good enough to clear rust.

If not, can one hire a sandblasting kit?

If not - anyone got one.... 😬

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[Big Brother]

The gun you have will do the job, however it will use LOTS of air, so you will spend long periods waiting for the compressor to fill.

 

I have a similar compressor and used it to paint an entire Landrover Defender.

It took a while but turned out OK 😬

 

Steve

 

 

SE7EN-UP!

---

_{If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.}

---

 

[Bricol]

Dunno what blaster you are referring too, but little recirculating blasters are quite good. Only do smal spots, but if it's only a smalll part . . . I used kiln dried sand from a local builders merchant with mine - cheaper and nearly as effective as proper stuff. Wear a mask and googles tho.

 

You'll probably have to wait for the compressor to keep catching up as the flow soon drops off and the effectiveness falls.

 

Best to get the worst off with a scraper/wire brush etc if it's heavy rust.

 

Have you tried the washing powder in a bucket of water, a sacrificial metal electrode, the part you want de-rusting and a battery charger technique for removing rust with little effort? Works well. here

 

Bri

[caterhamnut]

- cheers guys - like the tip about using builders sand! Not sure I can get a washing up bowl big enough to submerge the van, but interesting method to try on some smaller bits...

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[caterhamnut]

Biggish areas!

here

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[Bricol]

Forget it - with the small compressor and a small blaster you'll wear the compressor out way before you get rid of that lot! Lifts too short. Do what I did when I wanted to remove a smaller amount of rust from a car - looked through the Yellow Pages until I found a mobile blaster who wanted a reasonable amount of cash to come and do it for me.

 

He arrived, spent longer sorting the air leaks in his hoses and sweeping up some of his sand afterwards than doing the job. Took maybe a minute to do the car, and another 30 seconds to do a rear subframe. Quickest, but most worth it, 75 quid I ever spent. Everything I wanted right down to bare, rust free, metal ready for priming and painting.

 

Just make sure you block and seal everything you don't want sand in - and get it done on a dry day! Otherwise the steel will rust as you look at it from the moisture in the air.

 

Have you come across here for the paint afterwards?

 

Regarding the water dip method - I did joke once about using my deep, roofed, clean, fish pond . . . but there is a company who will dip, strip and passivate a bare steel shell if you want it to last forever.

 

Bri

[alicat]

Bri

 

You used WHAT in you blaster 🤔

 

Do not use sand ❗ Sand contains silica which will make a nasty mess of your lungs if you breathe it in during the process, prolonged exposures can have the issues as asbestos.

 

Alicat

 

 

[Bricol]

Hence my comment: "Wear a mask and googles."

 

Probably ought to add ear plugs with defenders over the top - block the noise and the sand.

 

You would have to do an awful lot of it though and breathe a lot of it in. I bet we do more harm to ourselves with exhaust fumes and vapour when refilling cars over a lifetime.

 

But it's another arguement for the man with a van and large compressor to come and use his sand.

 

As for asbestos - you have to specify the grade before getting too carried away - not all of it will cause issues. While probably not to smart an idea to get it inside your body, not all types will stick there and do damage. We had to get a bit carried away with the stuff here when it was found to be falling out of the ceilings . . . never mind the sand blowing in from the foundry . . .

 

Bri

[caterhamnut]

cheers guys...

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[Neal Worth]

Keep seeing this company advertised in various magazines.

 

Whether any of their stuff would help, rather than, as well as blasting.

Bilt Hamber

 

 

[caterhamnut]

Interesting link Neal

I might get some of the stuff for smaller items - not sure if I can keep the gel in contact with the bits I need, but may be useful for other stuff.

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[susser]

Silver Sand from a builders' merchant or "Playpit Sand" from a toyshop is "Silica Free".

Dunno how that works but it's ok for Grit Blasting operations.

[caterhamnut]

Well, have scouted the local tool hire shops, and no one hires out sandblasters anymore - 'H&S' apparently.

I'm tempted to hire a big compressor and buy a £15 gun and give it a go....or just accept a weekend of sandpaper and grinding...

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[Bricol]

Angus - as per my earlier suggestion - there are mobile sand blasters out there - bloke with massive compressor on back of a van/truck will come and do a better job than you could hope to do, in a quicker time. The time saved getting the rust off will be better spent stopping it coming back. Might seem a lot of cash for such a short time they will be there doing it, but believe me, well worth it.

 

 

Bri

[caterhamnut]

Yep - I have looked and so far not found any around here - there is a place a few miles away, but you have to take the vehicle there - I'm still trying to locate. I can certainly see the logic of getting a man-in-a-van to do it!

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

102,000 miles car

[JampJ]

Have you got a good drill and cup brush? Usually does the trick.

Cheers John

 

JFDI

(Just F*****g Do It)

[DohNut]

 

I remember spending ages getting my A-frame cleanish with a wire brush and drill and hammeriting it. I was persuaded by a friend to take it along to a tame fabricator who put it in his blast cabinet. I was amazed what a single pass of shotblast would do, there was no trace of rust or my Hammerite, just a clean matt finish.

 

But if you cant get them to come to you then you are a bit stuffed. I guess you just remove the all the components you can from the shell and get them done elsewhere , mechanically clean the flat bits of the shell, the little gaps and holes can be done with rust removal liquid/gel/foam stuff.

 

N

 

 

[Mickrick]

Angus, pay someone to do it! I have a pal who used to be in the trade. You need a big compressor to do a good job. He had a hydrovane and hopper on the back of a three ton truck. There are envioromental issues now, with using sand.

Bodyshells and the like, are better blasted with wallnut shell. Honest!

 

Academics are seldom any use at engineering. One must have a mistrust of theorists. (Keith Duckworth)