Cleaning foam filters.

[Blatman]

Specifically, does anyone have any tips, hints or recommendations regarding the cleaning of the ITG "sausage" filter, pictured here.

My thanks as always..

[John Reay]

Hey Blatman,

 

have a look at the ITG filter web site http://www.itgfilters.com.

 

This is what they say

 

CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

The filters can be cleaned using petrol to wash the dust out. After washing, allow the filter to dry and then re-coat with Dust Retention fluid.

 

Take precautions against fire when using petrol! Do not use a filter until the petrol has dried off. The adhesives and materials used in the filters are petrol resistant, but the adhesives are not completely water-resistant. Washing in warm soapy water is tolerated, but the filter should not be soaked, and it should be shaken and allowed to dry quickly. The water encountered in normal use of the filter ie. rain, spray etc) has no damaging effect.

 

We always recommend the use of Dust Retention Fluid, which is supplied in CFC free aerosol cans, Part No. JDR-1. The fluid gives a significant improvement in filtration efficiency, with a negligible reduction in air-flow capacity.

 

Dust Retention fluid should be sprayed all over the outside and a little on the inside of the filter. The fluid has a white dye in it to help show where the filter is thoroughly coated. After spraying, 'massage' the fluid into the depth of the filter foam.

 

HTH

 

JOhn

 

 

 

 

[John Reay]

Opps,

 

Its actually www.itgairfilters.com.

 

John

[sjwb]

Go to any good motorcycle dealer or M&P and purchase a K&N filter cleaning kit. Petrol is not really a good idea.

 

Steve B

[I reply to every thread]

errrrrrrr - K&N's aren't made of foam.

 

I suspect that the manufacturers have a rough idea how to clean the filters they make!

[sjwb]

In the pursuit of being helpful and in spite of the petulent response from the former correspondent I will explain.

If you wish to risk dermatitis and torchid=red> the workshop use gasoline.

Perhaps SOME motorcycles use foam K&N filters. Either way, the kit is good and SAFE.

 

 

Steve B

[Simos]

W*******d airfilters of course should be cleaned in situ using petrol.....

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist teeth.gif

 

I doubt ITG would tell you to go and buy K&N products even if the alternative advice spelt instant death for the population of a smallish market town...

[Blatman]

Thanks fella's.........apart from Simos of course....tongue.gif

SJWB/AVES

I appreciate your thoughts and concerns for my health. I should point out that I always wear latex gloves when fiddling with the car/chemicals/solvents etc, so my hands remain baby soft, and my nails grease free............as for torchingid=red> the workshop, I generally do this sort of work outside......... Perhaps I should go up to Julians and do it near that hedge of his, by his garage...............

[Simos]

teeth.gif Why does he have a W*******d ? wink.gif

 

One other reason might be that petrol these days is far from a cheap cleaner, it's bloody expensive !!

[John Reay]

The other thing that the ITG site fails to mention is that if you decide to clean the foam using chemicals other than petrol is that you run the risk of breaking the PU foam cell structure down. Degradation of foam is commonplace if incorrect solvents are used and in the case of an airfilter the foam could be ingested into the engine.

 

Secondly you may also break down the flame retardant chemical which is used in the manufacture if the foam.

 

Common sense prevails when handling any chemical substance and petrol in occasional contact with skin will not do any harm. Prolonged exposure is a different matter.

 

You should be more careful handling used engine oil as it carries a far higher percentage of potential carcinogens and mutagens which can be absorbed through the skin.

 

Blatman, stick with petrol as the cleaner unless you know what type of foam it is eg ether or ester based, the polyol, catalyst, foam density, flame retardant chemical used etc etc

 

John

[Blatman]

Petrol it is then...........Thanks John.

Will Optimax give a higher grade of clean or should I stick to 95 and an octane booster..............or perhaps Super UL will prevent any knock damage with the spanners........choices choices..........biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

[John Reay]

Optimax may well give a higher level of clean, especially with all the detergents it is meant to contain wink.gif

 

I'm not sure if Millers make CFL, Competition Foam Lubricant tongue.gif

 

Personally I'd recommend using 95 UL unless you have a filter ECU which will correct the ignition curve to take advantage of the higher octane. I think you may be disappointed with the results if you have to go to Dave Walkers for a remap biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

 

Seriously first of all I would give the filter a good vacuum and then wash from the inside out with petrol. Collect the washings and if you can filter them to remove the crud and continue re-using the petrol (well this is what I'd do but then again I am a Scotsman tongue.gif

 

John

 

[sjwb]

teeth.gif

 

Steve B