shn7 Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Setting to 90oBTDC - does it matter which direction the markings on the sprockets are pointing? Only ask as one of the manuals I have for the K Series shows a drawing with them apparently set so that exhuast points to inlet side and vice versa . Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Edited by - Steve Newman on 1 Mar 2008 22:23:21 Edited by - Steve Newman on 2 Mar 2008 11:42:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Might I suggest that you try the zip-tie method and use your noggin? here You'll have to divorce yourself from the markings - but will need to work through what's actually happening in your mind. Can't be a bad thing... 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Steve Yes it does matter, as you can end up with the timing 180 degrees out. Look at the diagram here scroll down to ''Fitting Verniers'' it shows the standard timing wheels in their correct position at 90 BTDC. Not quite sure what Myles is on about Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Err.. categorically no it does not matter which way the arrows point. You will just move the engine on by a complete revolution/half a cycle if they point the other way. It may be 180 degrees on the cam sprockets but it 360 degrees on the crank. The timing will still be OK, it's just that cylinder 1 will be doing what cylinder 4 was and vice-versa. Just ensure that *both* sprockets are pointing in the same direction and all will be well. Oily Edited by - oilyhands on 2 Mar 2008 07:06:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Share Posted March 2, 2008 Thanks Oily. That diagram linked to by Malcolm is the very one I was confused by, though not from seeing it on your web page. Malcolm, if you think about that diagram you'll see that the " *arrowleft*EXHAUST" markings are pointing to the inlet side of the engine which is where my puzzlement came from. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelico Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Be careful Steve. The engine will run backwards 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Must remember not to post when coming back in from the pub............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Malcolm, if you think about that diagram you'll see that the "left arrowEXHAUST" markings are pointing to the inlet side of the engine which is where my puzzlement came from. TADTS has confused a few in their time so don't worry. jj N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Share Posted March 2, 2008 *mad*Refitting the crank pulley and whilst tightening it, my homebrew flywheel locking tool slipped allowing the crank to turn 🙆🏻 *mad* I can undo the pulley bolt, remove the cam belt and reposition the crank to what I think os 90oBTDC but as this crank pulley mark didn't originally line up with the mark on the bottom belt cover how can I be sure I've got it right? Wish I'd marked the original alignment now How far would the crank have needed to turn to have done any damage at the top of the engine? I heard a noise as it slipped that could have been from the flywheel locking device or more worryingly from pistons meeting valves. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 The crank would need to turn around 70 degrees before you get anywhere near the valves. make sure you turn it back in the opposite direction to the way it slipped. Remove spark plug 1 and spark plug two, align the crank *near* the 90BTDC marker, then measure down the plug holes to the top of the piston on cylinders 1 & 2 with a piece of tig wire or lonmg cable tie, when they are the same height and number one piston is on the rise when the engine is turned clockwise then you are at 90BTDC. Note the pistons will not be exactly halfway down the bore, merely level in the bore. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Share Posted March 2, 2008 Thanks Oily. Mucho relief to hear I haven't contacted pistons to valves. Only turned about 15 degrees. Back to the garage with some measuring to do. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strij Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Steve If you need a locking tool I have a hefty home made K series crank locking tool, it replaces the starter motor when working with the engine in-situ, you are welcome to borrow it. I am quite local to you at Clanfield, nr Waterlooville. John Superlight #11 now R400R powered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Share Posted March 2, 2008 strij, Many thanks for the offer but all sorted now. My locking tool needs to be mounted differently depending upon which direction I'm trying to turn the engine. As previsouly stated it's a homebrew item which with hindsight I could have done rather better. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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