David Lynch Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 So what else would you do/should I do?? My ideas so far:- New Suspension and Axle Bolt set Driveshafts to clean up, paint and fit new gaiters Brake lines, T Piece and Clips Clean anything and everything that comes off before it goes back on New ARB Rubbers Clean/POR15 chassis as much more accessible More Steel Rivets to Floorpan (the most painful job on a Seven ? ) Grease Propshaft Should I touch the LSD ???, Not had any attention in the 3 years I've had the car Already have new A-Frame Advice along lines of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it comes to mind' 😬 though TLC is certainly required on a car that's about to become a stroppy teenager Ta in advance, Dave p.s. Not sussed the sequence of removal yet though build manual should be good guide I suppose? I must remember that I'm in public Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 26, 2008 Area Representative Share Posted February 26, 2008 A chance to clean up the brake calipers and check the pads. If you've not already done so I'd change the rigid brake pipes for flexible hoses and attach to the de dion with P clips rather than cable ties. Are you fitting a "new" de dion? If it's the old type and you're using shocker mounts which are attached to the bottom of the de dion I'd seriously consider having the with a metal fillet welded to them (like the later ones). Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Take care to spec the new tube with the right mounts for your dampers though. if the mounts are at a different height you'll run out of droop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 De Dion has both sets of damper mounts , and the underslung ones have a full fillet weld . Will fill the top ones with grease and plastic plug them for later update. Good point about brakes. Got a newer set of fronts which I've got to clean before fitting so that will be good practice 😬 I must remember that I'm in public Edited by - David Lynch on 26 Feb 2008 22:57:09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Chris at the 7 Workshop suggested i replace the discs and wheel bearings on mine when i had most of the rest of the rear end done, just cos while its in bits they are easy to do and fairly cheap, but a pain in the 🙆🏻 if you get it all back together and then need to do them a few miles down the line. And a new A-frame and trailing arms are only a few quid more than re-bushing what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 And a new A-frame and trailing arms are only a few quid more than re-bushing what you have. On an LA, the A-frame is around 50 spondoolicks, and the trailing arms are 50 -- EACH! Spoke to Tony at CC about this price disparity and he's convinced the A frame is underpriced. I'm convinced that the trailing arms are overpriced... Bush set for the whole lot set me back around 45 notes, and I'm having them fitted tomorrow. Added; including spax bushes too, and p&p. I'm a cheapskate Alex McDonald A loud 1700 SS in bits Edited by - alextangent on 27 Feb 2008 11:29:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 remove flaking powdercoat from chassis and repaint 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 Nah, remove rust from chassis and repaint for first time in 13 years I must remember that I'm in public Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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