Car won't start when hot

[Tarek]

The problem has started since a service and fitting of a battery cut out. The thing will not start when hot. This was never a problem before the service(Standard service done at Millwood, who were excellent by the way). The car was having problems with the battery, but after advice elsewhere here, the terminals have been sanded and the battery charged for 36hrs and the car has been starting fine from cold. It runs beautifully until I do something unreasonable (like stop for petrol). It then sits there like a lemon and I need to wait for it to cool right down, or get a jump start. Any ideas why this might be, or more to the point, what I can do to put it right? Am I going to need to go back to Millwood (about 120 miles)?

 

As a second point, since the service, the catch-point of the clutch has moved considerably. It used to be the usual 2/3 or so of the way down the pedal travel. Now it disengages at the very top of the travel. Makes for a few humiliating high revving attempts at a gentle get away. Being a clutch virgin (mechanically speaking) is this something that is fixable at home or does it need a proper mechanic?

 

Sorry this is so long winded.

 

Tarek

[Stijn LUYCK 1]

What do you mean with "will not start", does the engine turn over but it does not start or is it the starter motor itself? In the second case do a search, this topic has been brought up lots of times (often just a question of properly resoldering the wires to/on/inside the starter)

[Tarek]

Stijn,

 

Starter motor does turn over but only briefly, then nothing.

[Blatman]

Sounds like a starter with a high resistance when hot problem in the wiring somewhere. It it's a K series motor, then I'd suspect the "ususal" solenoid problem. There has been much posted about K series starter problems in the past, so a search of the archives will reveal some answers.

[Gary Furst]

Re. the clutch adjustment, yes it is a very easy job to do at home. All it requires is that you locate both ends of the clutch cable and have an open-ended spanner of the correct size to loosen the lock-nuts. Then assuming that your clutch pedal is in the normal position for you, you will need to adjust the engine end of the cable. If your cluch is biting too high I think you will need to screw the engine end of the cable outwards (away from the bellhousing) to take up the slack on the cable and move the bite point further down the pedal travel. Once you've got the pedal to your liking re-tighten the locknuts so that the bite point does not shift.

[Graham Sewell]

As the clutch pedal is supported by the inner cable aginst a spring (just hear the loud noise when the cable snaps and the spring pulls the pedal to the bulkhead), you need to slacken the cable by making the outer sheath 'shorter' using the open ended spanner as previously described.

 

However, two points to consider.

 

Do not adjust the cable at the pedal end beyond the point where the brass ferrule is visable in the pedal box otherwise the angle of the inner cable during clutch activation will increase wear and jeopardise the life of the cable.

 

Do not adjust the clutch end of the cable to the point where the threaded brass section stops the clutch fork moving and thereby prevents disengagement. Also this would again cause premature wear on the cable .

 

So, as ever, it is a compromise between the two ends. If you cannot get this right, you have either got the wrong cable or it has caught somewhere and is not releasing properly.

 

Cheers,

 

Graham

 

Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

[Tarek]

Thanks guys.

[DCG]

Tarek,

 

If you need a hand with the clutch, email me and we can get it sorted. Make it Sunday though as I,m at Curborough tommorrow.

 

Dave.

[Tarek]

Dave,

 

You have mail

 

Tarek