Panagiotis-Marina Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Hi everone. This is my first post in TechTalk so please bear with me. I've searched the archives but still can't really get an answer. I currently have the standard CC exhaust (short primiries, side exit, integrated cat) and a wet sump with oil cooler. I'll be upgrading sometime in the future (not sure just yet if I'll go to 1.8 or DTB). I would like to start by replacing the exhaust to a 4-2-1 with cat and a dry sump since I go to the track whenever possible. 1) What options do I have for the exhaust? What gains should I expect (bhp, torque)? 2) Browsed through the CC parts site but cant seem to find a dry sump kit per se. Is there one that CC provides? 3) Could it possibly be the oil air separator kit -part# ACOT04? (...so you haven't guessed wrong, I'm not technically inclined ) 4) Does an Apollo tank provide equivalent engine protection? Insight, comments, pointers etc much appreciated. /p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Welcome! Does an Apollo tank provide equivalent engine protection? No. The apollo is an air/oil separator does not provide oil surge protection like a dry sump, but helps prevent bearing damage from aerated oil in a wet sumped K series. Essential addition for track work, if you do not fit a dry sump system. However it would require an alternate site and oil pipes for LHD. malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 You won't get huge gains from just an exhaust alone, all though it should make it happier to build the revs quicker. There are two types of exhaust, 4-1 and 4-2-1. the 4-1 gives better gains at high revs, and the 4-2-1 gives a better gain in torque low down. The 4-2-1 exhaust needs the 4-2-1 section replacing with a 4-1 cat section if you want to run a catalytic convertor. Bear in mind that the noise limits are getting stricter, so I would suggest the LHD VHPD exhaust with the 7" can. Failing that, buy the primaries, catalytic convertor, and get yourself a Raceco repackable can. There are two Caterham dry sump kits. One with an integral bellhousing tank (requires engine out to fit) and one with a remote tank. I can't see either listed on the online store though. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Hi PM, I had a LHD R300 here in Mallorca. When I ordered it from the Factory, they told me that if I wanted the dry sump option, it would mean fitting a smaller alternator, (to clear the pump) which didn't like the heat. Bearing in mind my location, I chose not to try and fix one problem (although a dry sump is not really a neccesary, unless you're doing track stuff, and running slicks) and create another. Just something to bear in mind, re the heat problem, given your location. I couldn't drive my car in July/August, just too damn hot! Of course this was CC sales talking, and from past experience, it could be utter tosh! You'll get more sense out of Darren, in parts the department. Also bear in mind my signature! 😬 If all around you say it can't be done, all the more reason to do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panagiotis-Marina Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Thanks to all! Its like reading an encyclopedia in here Will drop an email to Darren then for the dry sump, since I get to the track quite often. Is there a difference, between VHPD exhaust part# EX99B and "side exit road" part# EX95L? BTW CageyH they both mention a 6 inch silencer and not a 7 inch July and August is herendous here too Mickrick. The only thing we could do is leave home for the mountains before the sun was up, but that wasn't always enough. I think that during this summer (the second with the car) we will be using the tintop to go to the sea for a swim instead. (Le Sept is out of our budget for this year ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 You will need the VHPD "race" exhaust for the 7" can. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 This one. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panagiotis-Marina Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Thanks. Catalyst converter is a must for us so I guess if there is one you get a 6" can, or am I being just plain stupid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 You are better off getting the 4-1 then. Just make sure that it is not the R3/4/5 exhaust, as the hole is in a different place in the side skin. As you have to enlarge the hole, you may be ok with the above, but I am not sure if you are. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I have a LHD Dry Sumped 1.8L Rover k with the 4-2-1 exhaust. FYI since the dry sump pump is on the right side of the engine and the exhaust is on the left, along with the Steering column, you don't have a lot of room for the altenator on the left. I ended up making up a bracket and running the altenator off the front of the engine facing backwards. Make sure you specify the LHD primaries as there is not much clearance between the steering column, exhaust and starter. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 2 Feb 2008 16:34:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Thanks for that Tom! Then I owe CC Sales a public appology for my previous post! 😳 Sorry Guys, you weren't talking tosh! If all around you say it can't be done, all the more reason to do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panagiotis-Marina Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 So what seems to be "better"? To fit a smaller alternator or to do the mod that Tom has mentioned? Have already experienced the click death; after wrapping the primaries, rebuilt the starter motor and installed a "heat deflector" mod around the top of the starter as described in the archives haven't clicked ...yet. I understand with the larger primaries this might turn up again, so moving the alternator up forward sounds to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Tony and Darren have always come thru for me, so for the parts department. When building my car, in addition to the LHD Drysumped Rover K, I have a Hydraulic clutch. When trying to connect the slave cylinder to the clutch arm on the six speed, I called Caterham and was connected to the Engineer. He said "We never did a dry sumped K with a hydraulic clutch before. Let me know how you make out"!!!!! Fabbed up a little clevis and locking nut for the slave cylinder, added a few spacers and Other than those 2 issues, the build was painless. Now if you guys can do something about that brutal exchange rate and shipping costs. 😬 😬 Cheers Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomGaval Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Let me know if you'd like to see some pics of the bracket. I can email them to you. tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panagiotis-Marina Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Thanks Tom! Will email Darren then for the dry sump. He's been very helpfull on previous occasions 4 me 2. Would appreciate pics, my email is p_papaioannou@ddsynergy.gr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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