hugh Posted May 12, 2002 Share Posted May 12, 2002 i have just changed the oil on my dry sumped crossflow but now i am having problems getting any oil pressure what is the recommended procedure for 1. changing the oil 2. getting the new oil through the system. its been working fine prior to this since i built it and got it on the road in janurary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Hugh, when you say that you are not getting any pressure, i pressume that you are not running the the engine? Are you trying to achieve oil pressure by cranking alone, if so it can sometimes take quite a long time to purge all the air out the system before oil pressure is resumed. Make sure that when you change the oil filter, prime it first with fresh oil, this helps the dry sump system purge air quicker and allows the engine and oil pump to recieve lubrication before full pressure is restored. C7 PWT X-Flow all Steel Life begins at 40(00rpm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Take the plugs out and crank it on the starter for a while. The engine spins round easily and the oil eventually gets some pressure. You will only get movement on the needle...so if you are looking for 4 bar you will never see it! Some movement on the oil pressure needle indicates that the oil is fully circulated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Turner Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Hugh I adopted the following steps when changing the oil on my dry sump x-flow: 1 Drain tank - mine had a drain plug in it but some require you to remove the bottom pipe. 2 Drain oil from the dry sump itself - only a small quantity but worth checking for foreign bodies, I once found a small piece of the timing chain split link, that probably saved a blow up. Clean the gauze filter if you have one on the drain plug. No need to put any oil back, the scavange will prime itself on start up. 3 Change oil filter - fill the new one with as much oil as you can. 4 Fill tank with correct amount of oil. 5 Remove plugs and crank engine until the gauge registers pressure (may take several 10 second spins). 6 Refit plugs and start engine. Paul Edited by - Paul Turner on 13 May 2002 09:06:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 It can take 30 to 40 secs on the starter (no plugs in) to get pressure showing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Interesting thread this one!!! My remote filter is by the drivers footwell on its side, making the pre filling of the filter impossible. I thought about moving it up in the car but was worried that if it was raised there would be a tendency for it to drain when standing and on start up the car would always have to fill the pipes up to the filter first. Discuss! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted May 13, 2002 Share Posted May 13, 2002 Have you changed the hoses? - I had a problem with my dry sump X-Flow when "New" hoses had the internal walls collapse which led to no oil pressure. The pump was sucking the walls in - like sucking a McDonalds straw with your finger over the end. New good quality hoses cured it. Problem was I'd turned the relief valve up in the interim so when I started it it blew all the seals out that it could. You live & learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted May 13, 2002 Author Share Posted May 13, 2002 thanks for all the advice the hoses are all new caterham supplied and i have no problems until the oil change. i will keep on cranking it, how much on the gauge should i see before its safe to put the plugs and start her up the gauge shows little or no movement yet.i shall try filling the oil filter and sump see if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Hugh, This is often caused by air locks. Slacken the oil pressure 'out' union at the oil pump and crank until some oil leaks from the joint, then do the same to each union in turn up to where the oil goes into the engine. This will usually sort it. There is one much more serious potential problem. I assume you have changed the filter. If the new one has a non-return flap in it and the old one didn't AND your oil filter head is plumbed backwards, you will get no oil at all into the engine and instant death will occur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted May 18, 2002 Share Posted May 18, 2002 Some gauge movement is enough. You can't expect normal pressure at at starter speed. My pressure warning light goes out long before the gauge reads much, the new Caterham gauges are overdamped. Edited by - stevefoster on 25 May 2002 00:48:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted May 19, 2002 Author Share Posted May 19, 2002 thanks for all the info, can i ask the folloing questions 1.which way should the remote oil filter be plumped in, currently the hole (in the remote filter holder) is nearest the inlet pipe, is this correct? 2. the gauge moves very slightly not quite into the red is this enough to start and wait for it to build up? the pump is pumping, it has almost filled the loosely fitted oil filter by cranking on the starter alone. thanks again hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 The pressurised oil comes into the oil filter around the outside of the filter and is then fed to the engine down the CENTRE of the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted May 21, 2002 Author Share Posted May 21, 2002 i,m pretty sure the remote filter is plugged in correctly but i am as yet, having no joy on the pressure front. i have just run down a second battery no pressure yet but a trickle of oil is coming through the disconnected return pipe from the oil cooler is this a hopeful sign? p.s. would it help to raise the dry sump tank (temporarily) to help the pump? my only experience with pumps is dewatering pumps which are pretty useless at sucking but with a bit of head behind them they work much better many thanks for all the help hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Guest Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 Not sure if it helps but I had a similar problem when changing the oil. I tried everything I could think of and in the end changed the filter again and got an immediate result. The Oil filter was made by Champion and I have yet to pull it apart and see what the issue is but I also came across someone else who had exact same problem with a Champion filter. Try a differnt make of filter - good luck Eddie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted May 24, 2002 Author Share Posted May 24, 2002 the problem persists i may have a problem with my pump its off to pace to be examined ( i took it apart it may not have gone back together as it should have) thanks for all your help regards hugh i,ll keep you posted as to the source of the problem if i ever get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted May 24, 2002 Share Posted May 24, 2002 I once fitted a brand new oil pump to my XF. Could not get any pressure up. Popped the old one on and bingo. Close examination revealed a hairline crack in the pump housing and it was just sucking air through the crack... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now