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Have I finally gone over the edge with weight saving?


Julian Thompson

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Here's a few more ideas, but not seen your car so don't know if you've already done them.....

 

Optimise length (shorten) all fixing bolts.

 

Bin all split washers. If you need anti slacken, use loctite. (Split washers don't work too well anyway)

 

Minimise use of plain washers. Only apply for anti gouge when fixing ali or other soft material (use smallest possible diameter under fixing head.

When using to spread load eg item bolted through ali panel, reduce size from the 'default' penny-washer.

 

Stick on number plates

 

Nylon fixings for very low stress applications

 

Remove inner ali panels from rear basket section (behind side of seat)

 

If you are prepared to do without the side protection honeycomb, remove it and the inner ali skin ( I wouldn't)

 

Remove handbrake rubber grip

 

File down FIA plastic key (or do without a masterswitch)

 

Make FIA key 'guard' from ali or carbon

 

If no passenger, remove all items from that side - seat, belts, areoscreen.

 

Shorten passenger toe box as per superlight race chassis

 

Run half width dash panel ( maybe a bit unsightly as wiring etc would become visible)

 

Remove sill scuff protection covers

 

Make exhaust exit hole 20mm bigger all round

 

Remove '7' rad grill and just use the mesh one alone

 

Remove nose badge

 

Use only one pinch bolt in headlamp stay to chassis. Saw/file away redundant material

 

Paint weights about 2Kg

 

Rear wheel arch beading: trim down to half original width. Its made of quite a dense material. If you don't mind the look of no beading. Bolt wheel arches on with out and neatly seal around with silicone

 

Trim out the inner flange of the rear wheelarches between the fixings

 

Ditch the rear whhel arch stone guards

 

Cut No. Plate lamp bracket off chassis an surface mount to rear panel

 

Get a non-hoodstick version of the rear luggage space tonneau from CC or get Jill Judd to make one up in lighter non vinyl canvass

 

Run without hub caps (set of 4 = 55g ! )

 

Shorten wheel nuts so there is no redundant section beyond end of wheel stud

 

Shoten thread on bottom of vertical link (upright) It's about half an inch longer sticking out beyond nut.

 

Spacer washer between steering arm and upright: replace with ali

 

Shorten front wing stays to get wing closer to tyre. Cut tubing off as near as possible to outboard fixing bolt

 

In some places, Nyloc nuts could be replaced with plain nuts and Loctite, lighter nut, shoten thread further

 

For oil catch tanks a nylon screenwash bottle is often lighter than some of the fancy stainless steel or alloy facricated one available from motorsport shops

 

Engine block: grind off any redundant mounting bosses or location lugs used as location points in the machining part of the manufacturing process

 

Ditto other powertrain castings

 

Run a thinner rad: lighter and holds less coolant. Increase efficiency by ducting the airflow to force air through it instead of spilling round the edge into the engine bay

 

Smaller coolant header tank

 

Aluminium fuel pipe from rear to front

 

Use spring type coolant hose clips like on modern production cars. Lighter than jubilee clips and clamp with constant load

 

Ali pipes to replace any steel water rail coolant pipes?

 

Ali pulleys on alt, waterpump etc?

 

I've tried to keep off the obvious stuff like removing all the SVA edge trims, etc, but hope there may be some useful ideas in my suggestions

 

...........And there's always more of course. I seem to remember some previous threads on this subject.

 

Good Luck!!

 

P

 

 

6SpeedManual *smokin*

*tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

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Hey thanks for all that - it's fantastic and I think that in the future hopefully the phrase "weight saving" will bring this thread up to help others.

 

That's a terrific list there 6sp - a few things I'd thought of but lots that I hadn't. *thumbup*

 

I'm resigned to running a full cage, which is a couple of kg's more than even the FIA bar IIRC but this appears to add significant strength to the chassis (LA chassis is quite twisty!) as well as protecting from a multitude of crash nasties, I guess.

 

 

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JT

 

You mentioned panelling car in CF. How much lighter than the standard ali panels is it (Kg/m2) ? Total weight saving on whole 7 ?

 

Another option is to skin in thinner ali in non structural areas, but terribly vunerable to dents.

 

How about bonding the panels on and doing away with all those rivets!

 

When I was looking at the RiF car at 50yot7 it occurred to me that it is a lot of effort in putting all that CF on a car that remains essentially the same space frame giving limited functional benefit. Just got me wondering about the feasibility of making a CF tub without the steel tubes. This would obviously take a lot of design and development input but worth a passing thought.

 

 

 

6SpeedManual *smokin*

*tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

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And documented fully on my links below *wink* (CA07BON now updated too!!!).I have just added up the parts Julian has purchased and the weight saving will be at least 8.5kg. Then knock out the bits like the boot floor etc and I would say there is a good 15 kg saving or more. The rigidity of all the panels, floor, internal and external skins is considerably increased plus it will be pretty hard to dent!

Very hard to shed 15+kg from an extra light car already *wink*

 

RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON

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Thanks Hudson - will do!

 

6spd, RiF!

 

Thanks for the input on that - as Richard says the saving will be significant with the full carbon - especially since (in deviation to Norman's build) I shall not be concerning myself with fitting too many "finishing" panels as this is mainly a track car. Also remember that Norman's build was a fair while ago now and Richard's techniques, methods and parts have evolved I believe...

 

Just as an aside, I have now had chance to digest the sheer quality of Richard's current carbon components - they are simply astonishing.

 

My builder at home used to make glassfibre ambulances in a previous life and so has been involved with moulding and resins a fair bit. He was simply stunned by the consistancy of finish and moulding quality of the parts. He was also amazed that they could be produced affordably like this, too.

 

I know that there was a whole lot of "ooooh aaahh" about various carbon parts a few years ago on BC but right now it has to be said that Richard's persistance and investment into the market has, inevitably, paid off in spades.

 

Well done Richard *thumbup*

 

6sp - I agree about the composite tub but really I guess at that point you really are changing the whole design concept. I don't have the budget for development, sadly!

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The late Rob Barksfield used sets of Ni-Cad batteries in his PCD Saxon single seater to minimise weight between each run he swapped them over with ones being charged *wink* he also had an external battery/starter motor that his wife had to drag around the paddock... now, that may be going 'over the edge' *rolleyes* *nono* 😬
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peter - Hmmmn - Nicads.. 😬

 

 

No, seriously, that little battery looks very good. As Darren says it is a bit short on CCA and Ah but certainly still very impressive for the weight!

 

Darren - I will try to take some photo's of the bonnet but I really don't think they will do it justice; carbon is one of those "hard to photo" things (well I find that!)...

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