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Have I finally gone over the edge with weight saving?


Julian Thompson

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Here is the latest 0.4kg saved in my quest to achieve 350kg AUW...

 

here

 

and

 

here

 

The drive flanges have not been drilled all the way through - the depth stop was set to create a 100g rotating mass saving whilst hopefully keeping them fairly strong.

 

The pedals were an unqualified success, dropping over 300g from them...

 

It is getting a bit silly now I know, but if we achieve 350kg I will be massively pleased with the project.

 

*thumbup*

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Is your car a Live axle? my blade has the strengthning gusset on the back of the ital live axle drilled out to reduce weight, and one of the orriginal wing stays still on the car is drilled out too. Suppose James whiting was trying to get the weight as low as possible on my car for the press work it did.

But as most people say, its usually easier for the driver to lose weight than drill everything on the car!

 

'Pinky Pics' here

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There is so much weight to be taken off from all sorts of places..... I am steadily lightening my car but at absolutely zero cost and without deviating from what would be regarded as factory standard spec.

 

I thoroughly approve of your ambitions, but 350Kg? Good Luck!

 

Have you considered:-

 

Moving the battery to the front? The copper cable running to the starter motor is a high Kg/metre component.

 

On your drive flanges, why do you still use hex head bolts and split washers on one of them?

 

Great big bundle of white cable behind dash?

 

Passenger map net?

 

Cut some big round holes in your battery holding bracket and the ali panel holding your relays and fuses?

 

Delete split washers under Allen bolts in your diff housing bearing caps?

 

How far from target are you?

 

 

 

 

 

6SpeedManual *smokin*

*tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

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I know it won't help with the weight saving Julian, but are you doing anything with the aerodynamics, if speed is what you are after?

What about flush mounted bonnet catches, carbon aerofoil covers for the wishbones to smooth airflow and give some down-force, close fitting front wings, stuff like that?!

 

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It's hard to tell how close I am at present since the car is not assembled and the chassis is at Arch, but from estimations I think I'm about 15kg away ☹️...

 

6speedmanual - those photos are pre stripdown ones - the car will be rebuilt using full carbon panelling once the chassis is back and there will be no cable or anything like that which isn't needed.

 

blade - Funnily enough I cut some holes in the big English Axle reinforcement yoke last week. Believe it or not there was nearly a kilo of excess that came off there!

 

Another kilo came off the chassis just by grinding off brackets and bits and bobs that didn't do anything. Sadly we have had to "spend" a kilo back into the chassis adding tunnel top support as the RiF carbon tunnel top is so lightweight that it is not strong enough to support foot traffic on entry and exit (car runs cage). (The standard alloy one isn't either to be fair, as anyone running a cage will testify!)

 

I am just in the process of making some LED rear lights. I have used RiF carbon light blocks and fitted lots of different LED's direct into the carbon which will mean I won't need the metal backplates in the lights either. They are excellent - really, really bright, but a right faff to do *mad*. Should have one finished next week with some photos...

 

As to where the last 15kg is going to come from? Well I'm hoping it will be in the detail build but that's a heck of a chunk I know....

 

Might try to weigh each part as it goes on so that if (when?) I fail I have a better idea where the weight budget has been spent!

 

Must say that feeling the weight of the RiF carbon bodyset makes me a little more confident... it really is very light indeed, but 15kg? 😳 I think not..

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Just had the quotes in for the carbon props.

 

CTG felt that the front prop would offer no weight saving, and that the rear prop would save 0.5 to 0.7 kg at a cost of over £2000.... (for the rear one alone!)

 

I have a decent weight saving budget but that sounds steep Roger, eh?!

 

Hudson:

 

Looks great that - will investigate!

 

*thumbup*

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gun drilled driveshafts ? or are you la ?

 

carbon boot floor (or none), ally fuel tank strap(drilled), ally steering rack arm rods, ally main rack > wheel rod, drilled rack body and mounts, ally gearbox mount plate, shorter springs (fronts in 4"length rears in 2.5"dia x 8" long), thinner guage ally collant pipes in place of silicone, ally bolts to retain non l stress/loaded items - radiator, battery,headlamp stays, scuttle , pedal box, dash,remove seat (replace with foam)

 

 

 

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

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acb10's ? a good 9Kg over R888's etc

 

ally steering arm spacers

 

oh I forgot to mention - those 1.9" rear springs will bend under compression and rub on the damper body 😔 😔. I changed to 2.25" when I had AVo's *smile*

 

take some photos of the engine and the rear suspension , I'm sure we could get you there *biggrin* *thumbup*

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

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Car in bits right now so no photos, but here goes!!

 

carbon boot floor (or none) - None.

 

ally fuel tank strap(drilled) - Check.

 

ally steering rack arm rods - GOOD IDEA *thumbup*

 

ally main rack > wheel rod, drilled rack body and mounts - GOOD IDEA *thumbup*

 

ally gearbox mount plate - It's a BEC so none of that *thumbup*

 

shorter springs (fronts in 4"length rears in 2.5"dia x 8" long), - Gone Eibach / Nitron *thumbup*

 

thinner guage ally collant pipes in place of silicone, ally bolts to retain non l stress/loaded items - radiator, battery,headlamp stays, scuttle , pedal box, dash - good ideas *thumbup*

 

remove seat (replace with foam) - Happy with Carbon one for now *thumbup*

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Julian - when I built race bikes (for Nigel Dean, Tony Doyle) I used titanium bolts instead of the standard steel items, very costly but made alot of difference to things like chainsets, gear mechs. They were very strong as well. Try weighing one 'titanium' bolt against your standard ones then see if it's worth using on the rebuild - I think you might be suprised.

 

Richard

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