Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted May 8, 2002 Leadership Team Share Posted May 8, 2002 Having driven around with a cracked nose cone (covered by a stick on number-plate) after some "considerate" person backed into me whilst parked, I feel that now is the time to invest in a new nose cone. What is the procedure for fitting this, as the manual does not cover it? I assume that you have to measure the placing of the dzus clips - does anyone have any advice or tips? Thanks - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted May 9, 2002 Share Posted May 9, 2002 I think a new nosecone will come with all the dzuz's fitted it should just fit although if you have an early caterham you may want to check as I think there are some minor differences rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Menace Posted May 9, 2002 Share Posted May 9, 2002 Is it Carbon Fibre? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver 21 Posted May 9, 2002 Share Posted May 9, 2002 Michael Last time I fitted a new nose cone it came with no fittings or holes but I simply transfered the position from the old one and it fitted fine, hope this helps Graham cool.gif1700 Live Axle X/Flow, got the engine upgrade now all I've got to do is try & beat the rest of the guys up the hill!!!!!id=red> cool.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted May 10, 2002 Author Leadership Team Share Posted May 10, 2002 Caterham confirmed that the noses come without the fittings, so the holes need to be drilled etc. As you only get one chance to drill these accurately, I was hoping for any hints to transfer the position. Alternatively, if it's an easy job, please let me know so that I can stop worrying about it, and just place the order! (It's just a s standard fiberglass one, by the way - I'm not made of money unfortunately)... Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C7JFM Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 I found when i fitted one that the lower edge under the radiator needed filing back by a significant amount before the cone would fit properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pie_boy69 Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 When you place a nose cone on you will find that it sits in a certain position that feels right and looks right ie all lines match up and look correct any gaps are even etc you will then have to mark from the inside through the zeus fastner spring clip the centre of the hole (measure twice cut once is a deffinet on this one) the drill a hole that is just big enough to accept the fastner than you can mark the rivvet holes and drill these and then pop it on job done. it helps if you have a cone cutter to make the hole large enough. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted May 10, 2002 Author Leadership Team Share Posted May 10, 2002 Thanks for the advice, but you mentioned a tool that I am not familiar with - a Cone cutter. What would one of them look like??? Sorry for my ignorance, but I want to get this right! Regards -Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pie_boy69 Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 A cone cutter is a drill bit that is shaped like a cone you can get smooth ones or stepped I preffer the smooth and measuer as I go others prefer the steped they have there own pilot drill cast in the end and are avaiable in a nice little set from machine mart on page 182 or at WWW.machinemart.co.uk But other tool shops will stock them and once you have one you will wonder how you ever got by without one. If you live near Romsey Hampshire you can always borrow mine or i will come over and give you a hand./ Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted May 10, 2002 Author Leadership Team Share Posted May 10, 2002 Thanks for the offer Keith. I'm a bit far away in Berks though, unfortunatly. Looks like I've just got an excuse to spend some more money in our local tool shop though... Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Michael, Get it fitted by a pro. The tooling varies considerably from mould to mould so you cannot transfer relative fixing positions. If you do this and you do get it right, you are very lucky! Takes about 1 hour for an "expert" fitter. Fat Arn Visit the K2 RUM siteid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted May 11, 2002 Share Posted May 11, 2002 I've just fitted a new nose cone today. It wasn't too hard (I'm no expert). But did require a lot of grinding/smoothing. Firstly had to trim the bottom so that it fitted between the front lower wishbone locating points. Then pushed back onto car and found out which bits fouled first. Had to open out the gaps for the anti roll bar and headlamp mount. A good tip here is to look at your old nose and see where it has been ground away. Mine had quite a lot removed from the return lip in the LHS. Then with nose on car try to project the centre point of the upper fastener openings from the chassis onto the new nose. Drill a 7mm hole at these points, refit to car and look through holes to make sure you can see the wire clip on the chassis in the centre of the hole. Remove nose and open up the holes further to allow the dzus thingies to be popped in the right place but dont rivet them on yet, best to countersink the holes and get them snug. Put nose back on, use the upper fasteners to hold it in place, check it sits right (try the bonnet). To locate the lower holes I pushed the lower fastenings into the new paint and twirled them so the scratched a mark in the right place. When you remove the nose now you can use these marks to pencil a larger hole out and guide the drill/dremmel. I also checked the spacing between the holes compared to the old nose before drilling. You should be able to rivet the wire bits across the holes by sight. The only bug I have is that I used std rivets which protrude a bit too much. Get short ones from Caterham when you do it, I've ground mine down to get them shorter, and its still touch and go but I can change them later no problem. Hope this helps Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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