MAK Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 Richard Similar problems with my 2004 SV. See here -Corrosion treatment. My solution to preventing the grot getting in was similar to the ally panel above. I used rubber sheet attached to the side skin and footwell using velcro. chosen to allow flex and so that it can be easily removed for inspection. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I got my LHS internal panel off last night. OMG! There was about 1-2cm of soily mess just sat on the chassis rail! Alot of powder coat fell off when I looked at it, but fortunately, the steel of the chassis isnt very rusty - just a slight orange tinge on the steel. Malcolm, I looked at your pics & saw you used some sort of sealant along the bottom edges of the chassis & floor - what was it you used? Got a lot of hoovering of swarf, soil and powder coat to do now. Would people recomend a couple of coats of Hamerite & waxoil, or should I find some POR15? Not sure where to get it mind. Cheers all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted November 22, 2007 Support Team Share Posted November 22, 2007 POR 15 from Frost Automotive. For belt and braces approach, when dry, apply a liberal coating of Waxoyl or Dinitrol before refitting the panels. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 £17 for a small pot of paint! Blimey - should go into the paint supply trade! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted November 22, 2007 Support Team Share Posted November 22, 2007 It goes a long way and sticks like sh*t to a blanket! Make sure you wear gloves! It doesn't chip or crack like Hammerite does. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAK Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Tom The sealant that I used is called Geocel Top Gun frame sealant. The blurb on the container claims excellent adhesion to painted ands treated wood, plaster, brick aluminium etc. Also claim excellent weather resistance They are a strategic partner of Dow Corning Tel 01752 202060. I got this from my local hardware store in cambridge. But note, I have no previous experience with this,it just seemed the best I could find at the time.- I have no connections with this company. I oalso think the likes of Frosts have seam sealant that may be as good/better. FWIW - I have not been that impressed with POR15 (I realise that I may be in the minority here), and don't see why hammerite would not be suitable inside this enclosed space. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted November 24, 2007 Share Posted November 24, 2007 Interesting that some-one also has second thoughts about POR 15. I also find it very expensive and when talking to the guys of Arch, I asked them if the combination of Hammerite base coat (the dark red product) and good chassis paint would be good enough for the job. They certainly didn' t object and basically the told me that any decent quality rust preservative treatment in combination with good quality base and top coat(s) is more than good enough to protect the chassis tubes. For the moment I only use the Hammerite red base coat and whenever I see a damaged spot on the chassis, I immediately clean it, sand it when necessary and put on a bit of Hammerite. So my chassis now has a lot of red spots but this is making it easy when I' m doing a complete refurbishment next winter. Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Is it possible to see into the traps? I was wondering if an endoscope might do it. The type surveyors use to see into wall cavities ect...similar to one docs stick up your 🙆🏻 Would love to check the state of my car, but don't want to have to do any hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAK Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Ivaan Not sure the size (diameter) of an endoscope, its likley you could slide one down between the footwell and side skin. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 You wouldn't get very far if the inner skins are anything like mine; there's some crush ali over bars to presumably provide some impact protection under each major panel. Alex McDonald A loud 1700 SS in bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardUSA Posted November 25, 2007 Author Share Posted November 25, 2007 Alex are the honeycomb panels a part of the inner skin panel or loose or ? Is there not a void between the inner and outer panels on newer ('04) cars? I don't want to try and drill a hole if all I'd be doing is drilling into a honeycomb panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Mine's a 93 chassis. The inner skins are loose, but the honeycomb panels are siliconed onto cross braces. The void is behind that, next to the outer skin, but it's only around 1cm or so. You can't get from void to void because of the braces. You'd have to drill through the honeycomb from the inside. I'd take a photo, but I'm away for the next two weeks. ☹️ Alex McDonald A loud 1700 SS in bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardUSA Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 Thanks for quick response Alex. Gives me something to look into before doing something stupid -though not drastic. May just end up doing as advised earlier and poping the inner panel off every few years. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 People talk about POR 15 here as if it is the only solution. A number of years ago between jobs (again...) I refurbished a ratty old trailer for my Dad. It got a thorough wire brushing then 2 brushed coats of grey zinc primer followed by 2 coats of general purpose gloss black. 15 years on it still looks good. I've had decent results from chassis black too, which costs next to nowt. That and a good application of sealant should see it, and Dinitrol/Waxoyl down the gap should keep it sweet if/when any gunk gets in. [idea] How about filling the GT with universal bodgit foam as used by the window boys? [/idea] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Well Ive just ordered some POR15 & thinners from Frosts for quite a bit. Bit relutantly ordered as its expensive, but I figured that as I dont intend opening up the grot trap again for at least several years, so its probably worth getting the best stuff. I have used black hammerite for this sort of thing in the past but its running out & getting thick. Just hope the expensive paint doesnt dry up in the tin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 I have never used POR 15 but as I wrote earlier the people of Arch made no objection to products of other suppliers. Has some-one perhaps a comparative test of these kind of anti rust products, paints and treatments (Hammerite, POR 15, Waxyol, Dinitrol, ...)? Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Can you not get access to this area from the top by removing the small curved panel under the side of the scuttle. Would like to see some detailed photos of the construction. Anyone? A fitter at work was using a spray can of "White grease with PTFE", to lube / protect some of our construction plant. Looked as if it could be a good product to protect against corrosion. Thinner than Waxoyl, so it flows into small gaps, but stiff enough to stay put and not be washed out/off by rain or spray. Wipes off easily with a rag though. I don't think that the expanding foam is 100% waterproof and once water did get into it, or between the foam and the chassis/skin, it would sit there slowly corroding the frame. It would never dry out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 27, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted November 27, 2007 Ivann, Photos: Panels removed Full of cr&p Cleaned and waxed You can probably work out that there's no access from the top, and quite honestly the only way to get to the dirt is by removing the interior panel. The honeycomb protection (as fitted as standard for many years now - early '90s) will prevent access and will need to be removed also. If you look carefully at the images you will notice the diagonal tube is a smaller section - this allows space for the honeycomb panel to be fitted against it, sandwiched between the diagonal and the interior panel. The honeycomb is a full size fit between the larger chassis tubes so no going "around" it. I hope this helps. Stu. www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Stu, thanks for the photo's, sorry I didn't see them in your earlier post. Out of interest, is this the first time you've removed the panels, and if so, what milage had you done. Was it all dry miles? I imagine the quantity of crap in the trap will be related to milage rather than age. I have used a pressure washer from the inside of the engine bay a couple of times in an attempt to keep the area clean, but it looks likely that it's only pushed any muck further into the void. Thanks, Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 28, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted November 28, 2007 Clive, my car is now 8 years old - I did the overhaul to the interior panels last winter following buying the car. According to the odometer the car has done 28,000 miles (but I'm the 3rd owner so could be anyones' guess!). What surprised me was how much dirt had travelled further back than the obvious corrosion point at the leading edge of the side panel, the bit where most people worry about cleaning out. The photos show the dirt in the next section rearward! If I was doing the job again I would use Tigerseal/Sikaflex to seal the outer skin to the chassis vertical at the front of the area shown in the photos. The standard seal is a piece of foam stuck to the chassis tube before the outer skin is attached - I assume that Arch fit the inner panels followed by the outer skin, therefore it would be impossible to seal the join properly, but it's quite easy with the interior panels removed. Stu. www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Stu, Your pictures are very helpful ! Is this Tigerseal / Sikaflex a product used in the building sector to seal windows and things like that ? Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Jack - in response to your earlier question; one of the classic car mag's did do a comparative test of Waxoyl and Dinitrol about a year back (and perhaps some others as well). Dinitrol came out of their test a clear winner. Obviously Dinitrol/Waxoyl do a very different job from POR-15/Hammerite. I went for POR-15, really just from the positive comments on this forum. stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Stephen, Thanks, Dinitrol is widely available on the Continent so I think to go for the combination Hammerite paint (cheaper than POR 15) and Dinitrol as anti corrosive treatment for the hollow spaces when I tackle this job somewhere next year. Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Yup - I'm going to take the inner panels off and spray with Dinitrol this winter. Hoping it's not too ugly in there... stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 13, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted December 13, 2007 Tiger Seal Stu. www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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