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xflow to zetec


JamesZ

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This has probably been asked a few times, but after my gearbox woes, which turned out to be a broken input shaft and cracked casing, I now find that the engine has a cracked crankshaft.

 

As the porting on the head isn't perfect either, I'm turning to thoughts of a zetec...

 

Currently the car has a dry-sump, oil cooler, weber 45s and accralite pistons. If I were to go for the zetec, while I realise the actual sump and pistons would be going, can I keep some of those parts, or would I have to go for a whole new drysump system on the zetec.

 

Would there be any benefit of staying on carbs or would I be better off going for injection?

 

Oh and would I have to spend a lot of time rustproofing the engine bay?

 

What other questions should I be considering? And how much more time would be required to put the zetec in as opposed to just dropping the crossflow back in (I won't be doing that part of the work myself).

 

James

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My advice would be to buy one of Racelines special deal black top Zetecs using their baffled wet sump, lightened flywheel, ecu, loom and inlet manifold. You can stay with DCOE's until you may want to upgrade later on.

 

You will also need their exhaust system and engine mounts but you can re-use parts from the X/Flow incl bellhousing, carbs, starter, alternator and the standard radiator.

 

Out of the box, the 2L Zetec will give you 160 - 165 reliable bhp with an upgrade path to well over 200.

 

Brent

(aka Arfur Nayo)

 

2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive

R 417.39 😬

 

Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 18 Oct 2007 13:31:21

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Well, intial thoughts are turning more towards the zetec option.... And having spoken to raceline things such as the drysump would no longer be necessary.

 

So Chris, to help me work out cost offsets etc, IF the dry sump system were to become available. What sort of region might you be interested in paying?

 

James

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I assume you have some hot cams and other performance bits for the top end if you have forged pistons in the bottom. I stripped everything I could from my crossflow and realised enough capital to pay for a secondhand Zetec and most of the essentials for fitting it.

 

My 1.8 silvertop with nothing more than 2.0l cams, 40 DCOE's and a Megajolt pushes out 147BHP at 6000rpm. It does get a little noisy after a very hard day on the track, so I'm thinking of fitting the oil cooler sitting in the garage. I would like a Raceline wet sump too.

 

NE Area Rep

Though cowards flinch and traitors sneer,

We'll keep the red flag flying here

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James,

just to be clear - don't need sump, don't need block or maincaps, but would realistically want everything else.

I have block + caps + crank + a few other bits bit I've lost a lot of the "fiddly bits" like timing chain cover, water pump etc along the way as a result of engine rebuilds/sawps etc.

Ed to add - YHM + I'd also probably want/need the head if suitable valved/sprung/guided (forgot to put that in the list above)

I'll be away nexy week so will blatmail you my contact details in case you want to progresss this sooner rather than later.

 

Edited by - DaveMorris on 18 Oct 2007 19:02:41

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You can convert using all the bits you have bar the exhaust manifold, but you'll need 3d ignition as a minimum I think. If you have the budget I would go with TBs. If not keep your 45s bearing in mind that many people (including myself) have had issues getting the fuelling right for a zetec on progression (snap throttle) and also on idle.

Recent personal experience would suggest that there may be some benefit (if you fancy trying it) in modifying your carbs to accept fuel injection rather than going to TBs esp as otherwise going to TBs was expensive. If you do go to TBs consider you need an ECU and think about who you'll get to map it for you. If you're nearer Ipswich than London you might wish to get Emerald and use Dave Walker. If not you're off to see Steve Greenald near Rainham, London. Also take advice on which fuel regulator to get, which fuel pump and injector combo for the power you're aiming at too.

Bear in mind that the zetec won't have that frantic urge of the XF, which can be disappointing until you install some hotter cams, then things get a bit more spicy, but as standard it's undeniably faster than alightly modded XF.

You may need a new fuel pump whichever way you go and yes you will need to consider corrosion more often than before. Hope that helps;bet I remember something else once I press send.

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James/Chris go for the Zetec, it's a great engine, it's easy to install (in place of an X Flow) and the best ever thing I have done to my seven Look Here Have a word with Brent, he also did it some years back *smile*

 

Guy SB Lowe o *arrowup*o *smokin*

The new de Dion tube is now fitted here

 

 

Edited by - Guy Lowe on 19 Oct 2007 06:01:14

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If you can weld good enough to make a manifold then you can use Lotus esprit 45mmTB's they have Non standard bore spacing but only cost 50-75 notes depends where you buy 'em from, and work better/more efficiently than carbs *biggrin* ECU will still be expensive though
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Thanks, all for your advice and to Phil and Guy for their advice on Sunday.

 

Well, Scholar have now come back to me, and for the same price as getting the xflow up and running, they'll build me a 185bhp zetec on carbs. Guess its a no-brainer.

 

Chris, I'll email you about the dry sump.

 

Jame

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Phil, Think I have done my sums correctly. Scholar will give me an engine with uprated pistons, lightened flywheel, uprated clutch, their sump and an ecu. They're also going to port the head and set it up with my webers on it.

 

My reckoning is then that I'll need to get new primaries and collector for the exhaust. I also think I need new hoses, a water rail, an engine breather kit and engine mounts off raceline. Am i missing anything?

 

The scholar engine will be a reconditioned series 1 as opposed to a series 2 (presume thats a silver top as opposed to a black top). Alan at Scholar reckons these are "better" but didnt go into the details why.

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The big one you are missing is the ECU - but it would give you the chance to go Emerald or MBE so you are 'injection' ready.

 

Guy, the Silvertop is hydraulic. I'm not sure anyone advises against it, unless you want to go BIG power later on then their isn't a lot of difference - and I think we are talking 220+bhp.

The Silvertop is easy to get to 200bhp, and not that hard to get to 220'ish, but it would need larger valves fitting - something that the blacktop has already (although I don't know enough to say that they would be big enough as standard also).

 

I'd say for a LA car either type would be fine, it just depends on cost really.

 

Phil Waters

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