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metail straining noise when conering?


andy_h

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As mentioned by previous owners, you really need to check all mountings and their brackets, "A" frame bushes at the back and of course the welds on the De dion tube and the "eyes" at the ends. I had a tinging noise over bumps which was amplified by the FIA roll bar and it got to the pitch that it was spoiling driving the car. Tracked it down to drivers side so decided to remove spring/damper. As the spring compressed over bumps it expanded outwards and hit the inside of the turret fortunately it had left a mark and with a hammer on the turret and spring put back turned 180 degrees the problem was solved. Sounds like a weekend of dismantling. Have fun.
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Find a suitably sized ogre. Get him (or her) to shake car in a vigorous manner from side to side whilst you listen for aforementioned "metal straining noise"

 

Probably nothing serious, but as already mentioned the DD tube warrants some close scrutiny where the lower damper mounts are let into the the tube. The welds here can crack & allow the mounting to come adrift.

 

D.

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I thought a similar noise on my car was perhaps the seat backrest - it turned out to be a LARGE crack in the floor pan - easy to check *cool*

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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Just a thought, if nothing obvious like a split weld or a break is spotted. Starting with the middle A frame joint at the back, give it a spray with some of that liquid grease from a can. This would give a temporary fix if there was metal to metal contact. Then it is the matter of applying grease to each joint in turn and see if it stops. If it doesn't after all joints and moving parts have been lubricated ( don't forget the prop shaft)then it sounds as if there is something broken or about to break or movement of some part that should not move. Check the boot floor especially if it is the aluminium honeycomb one !! If it is, put some masking tape or insulating tape all round the edge and refit.
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Thanks for all the suggestions *thumbup*

 

Don't have spare wheel...one less thing to check 😬

 

Have tillets so shouldn't be these. Will check mountings thou.

 

Good point about the rear roll bar drop links... may put a little grease on these (after checking dion) and go from there.

 

I checked the dion tube as part of me pre Le Mans trip and all looked fine... but then I first heard the noise on the return trip but put it down to a boot full of camping gear. Will check all those suggested.

 

Thanks.

Andy *cool*

 

 

 

 

 

White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car 😬

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  • 2 weeks later...

Checked De-dion before Sunday's Goodwood Breakfast Club trip and could find anything. WD40'd the rear ARB drop links as they did look a little rusty.

 

Didn't hear the noise on trip down as enjoying the Blat too much 😬 However, upon leaving the Goodwood car park I was stopped by car driver to say my rear off side wheel has a wobble and I should check my nuts 😳 (apparently he use to own a 7 and knew loose nuts were a problem 😬). The only loose nut I'm aware off is that behind the steering wheel 😬. Checked wheel nuts and they were fine *thumbup* but it did worry me all the way home if my De-dion was about to fail.

 

Brief look at De-dion when home and no obvious signs but will take the wheels off and check again before I use it next.

 

Could the wobble be a wheel bearing on its way out? Could this be the metal straining noise? The centre wheel nut isn't loose so either the hub needs an adjust or the bearings going/gone.

 

Has anyone changed a rear wheel bearing on a circa 1994 De-dion and can forward the method, tools and parts required? Done many on Land Rovers but had Doc Haynes to help.

 

Cheeers,

Andy

 

 

White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car 😬

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Jack up rear and see if there is any play by trying to wobble wheel from side to side by hand. Should be noticeable if bearing that slack !

 

May have been wet/dry areas on tyre - this can look like wheel wobble when following a car ?

 

Wheel bearing will certainly make a grumbling noise, especially when turning the opposite way, i.e. a left bend will load up right rear and make noise louder.

 

******************

And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it's sinking...

 

And racing around to come up behind you again. Seven related photos

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Sorry to hear it has not been cured.

Jack up the offending wheel and put on axle stand and grasp the wheel and try and wobble it in all directions. Use force, but don't pull car off axle stand. Don't just do this only using the jack! If all OK. Jack up the other side and put on axle stand and with both back wheels off the ground and engine running put in first gear and then see if wheel is wobbling. If it is then it is probably bent and you need a new wheel.

The bearing would have to be totally shot to produce a noticable wobble and would have been making continous worrying noise for a while.

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Andy this sounds similar to a problem I had which took me months to trace, I eventually found the problem by getting my friend to drive round in circles whilst I stuck my head in various places to chase the noise.

 

I fornd that rear gearbox mount had seperated, it is a rubber and steel type arrangement, under normal straight driving it was fine but when you went round a corner the gearbox rocked enough to let the big central mounting bolt touch the chassis.

 

You could not spot the problem when the car was stationary unles you put a jack under the rear of the gearbox and then it would lift out of its mount!

 

hope this helps

 

Simon

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Simon,

Thanks, I'll have a look for that one.

 

 

Patneal,

I do hope it's not a bent wheel, they're Dymags.

 

 

No grumbling noise so possibly not a bearing then.

I'll jack up and wobble wheel when I get a mo.

 

Another thought, straining noise could be driver seat mounts as driver's tillet on runners but passenger's fixed. Will check fixings and grease runners to eliminate.

 

Any more posibilities?

 

 

White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car 😬

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Andy,

 

As you have probably realised you are in a minefield as there are so many things it could be from gearbox mountings to broken de dions.

A couple of things... If you find as I suggested earlier you check that the wheel is actually not bent, has a weld parted on the wheel itself ? Side loading as in cornering would make a nasty metal to metal noise as the broken weld moved. If none of the suggested things, check that the outer metal casing of the handbrake cable is not fouling the drive shafts, If it is, there will be shiny marks on both drive shaft and cable casing. I covered most of the handbrake cable in old hose and secured with cable tyes. If it does manage to bump against something over bumps and cornering then any impact will be deadened.I also did the same with the roll bar where it passes under and very close to the diff. With the handbrake cable it is a good idea to make sure that it cannot move about over bumps as just banging against a chassis tube can produce quite a loud bang. secure with cable tyes.

Hugh Robinson

The one with the almost rattle and squeak free Caterham ? It has taken over 4 years to get to this state!

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The one with the almost rattle and squeak free Caterham

Can there be such a heavenly state ??

 

Quiet, but bogged down by rubber sheathing and hundreds of cable ties ?? *wink*

 

******************

And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it's sinking...

 

And racing around to come up behind you again. Seven related photos

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