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Engine choice


taffyracer

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HI Mal, Yep planning on coming. I sort of discounted K series on the basis that they were too problematic, i've read countless posts about head gaskets and other issues, but they do seem to be everywhere and it would be nice and easy and relatively cheap I suppose, might be worth considering, anyone have a decent one?

 

http://www.xlmotorsport....doing really badly in PS1!

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Go for a duratec......

 

Zetec are tough as old nails but also fairly heavy. K series......are they still around ;-)

 

Duratec in std tune 180bhp......with some cams 210-220....no need to mess around with the head or anything.

 

Have a look at my website for some more info....link below.

 

Speak to Ammo......Raceline are good but you don't need all the bits they sell for the duratec......water rails being an expensive option when a length of ali tube and a couple of 90 degree bends will do.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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I've spoked to Ammo, nice helpful bloke, but min is 6K+ vat + fitting for the duratec and that's not an exact price either, it's just too much for me at this stage, just want something that is not hugely tuned, 170bhp would be ideal, i'd like to go duratec but I can't justify that sort of outlay on my project, it was meant to be reasonable so needs to be under 5k all in, preferably closer to 4 though, found a new 1.8 VVC K for £1400 so that is looking reasonably strong at the moment

 

http://www.xlmotorsport....doing really badly in PS1!

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Taffyracer

If you want 170BHP then its a zetec or K,

Standard 2litre zetec on TB's and ECU with a decent exhaust = 165ish BHP a bargin'

when you consider it bolts straight onto the type 9 5 speed gearbox, and I think plenty for roaduse.

Standard 1800 VVC K = 160 BHP but you need various special fitting bits like bellhousing etc which bumps up the price, K is lighter - Zetec much easier to find your choice.

Look forward to meeting you next Thursday - you can check out my Zetec engined 7 *thumbup*

 

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I suspect if you picked up a 2nd hand Duratec from a scrappy you'll find you can do it for considerably less than £5k in standard 180bhpish tune. There are several diaries on the web of people that have done this.

 

The extra ancillaries (ie exhaust, bell housing) are going to be required for both a zetec and duratec install. If you can find a 2nd hand 2.0l duratec with a plenum, sourcing an alternator/starter motor isn't too expensive then you just need an ECU and loom.

 

Cheers

 

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com

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Rob G, can you point me in the direction of some of these build diaries, getting the engine seems to be the easy and cheap bit, I can get new for around 1k or so, but it's the ancillaries, all new comes to nearly 5k. I saw Dave Jackson's tonight (cheers Dave)and it looks really good, just concerned i'm pusing the boat out before I have even got the kit and totally understand the costs involved. I think I need to do this the other way aorund, need to sit down and work the costs through for the build and then work out which engine to plump for, there are just too many avenues! *eek*

 

http://www.xlmotorsport....doing really badly in PS1!

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Yes I agree, I would never spend this sort of money to appease someone else, I can afford the Duratec installation, its just that I have a particularly expensive racing habit to fund as well and the more I spend on this the less I have to put towards that, the biggest factor for me is buying something that is good solid reliable power that will last the course and provide a decent upgrade path

 

http://www.xlmotorsport....doing really badly in PS1!

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If, within reason, money's not the issue, IMHO the Duratec would be the route to follow. here's a pic of my intallation.

 

here's some general Duratec info. and don't worry about the doom and gloom brigade going-on about excessive footwell temperatures.

 

aftermarket Duratec's in Caterhams are more common nowadays and thanks to the pioneers, is now a pretty straightforward installation job.

 

Statements like 130bhp is enough are facile. The rev limiter is between the ears not between the throttle pedal and the floor 😬

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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Statements like 130bhp is enough are facile. The rev limiter is between the ears not between the throttle pedal and the floor

 

I do have to disagree Tony.

 

I know that you can drive a massively quick car less hard, of course - it's exactly what I have to do as well.

 

The only thing is that ultimately I don't think it is as satisfying to have to regulate yourself to that extent constantly. With 130bhp you can let the car have its head a bit - it's more engaging to do that on the road.

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re the hot feet

 

Yes the footwell is hotter in my opinion. I have lagged my primaries with cooltec and also lined the footwell panels with ally reflective sections (like you find around the cats on company cars *rolleyes*). I find the temperature OK with these measures.

 

The noise of the exhaust takes a bit of getting used to in your right ear ole, but I have taken to wearing earplugs now anyway and its no worse than the sound of the K series throttle bodies induction racket 😬.

 

When I was doing my prep for the Duratec install i called one of the breaker agencies - within 15 minutes I had 3 choices of low mileage Duratecs from 05/06 stuffed mondeo & focus @ £700 > £900. So they are about if you look and are willing to travel. New are £1300 + vat (ish).

 

I accept the argument that 130/150 is ideal for the road only because you have to work hard at maintaining the pace on the B roads and that gives the impression of it being fun, but the downside is that you cant drive it sideways on the throttle like you can with 175lb torque and 226 bhp *tongue*. Then when you do get a good strech, being able to blat wide open throttle in 3rd and 4th on the roads like we had on the megablat sometimes even 226bhp leaves you sat there waiting for the shift lights to illuminate in 4th gear *smile*.

 

I've tried convincing myself but I came back to the conclusion that 226bhp and 175lb torque is ideal for the road and track, transimission, cooling system, tyres and car ballance *biggrin* *thumbup*

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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