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CSR oil change


mav

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Guys,

 

Need to know part numbers and procedure for oil change on a 2.3 Duratec, dry sump ~(Caterham Cars std install) please.

 

I have some part numbers for the oil filter but would like to know what is fitted to your cars. How much oil do you need for a change?

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What is in it is wayyyyyyyyy toooooooooo much, so putting the smae back in is a bad idea *tongue*

 

With regard to the other questions, it is all std Caterham install, not sure if it is cosworth or raceline...

 

I think it is a raceline filterplate...

 

No oil cooler.

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Hi Mav,

 

I'm not sure if this is the approved method or not, but I drained the oil out of the bottom of the DS pan, by carefully undoing one of the big ali. bolts, behind which is a gauze filter, the hot oil will then just gush out. I'm not sure how much of a problem it is to leave a little old oil behind, I suspect not too much, as the oil should not be too contaminated. You should have an oil cooler too, only it doesn't look much like an oil cooler. It is a small round job, situated just in front of the passenger footwell, with water pipes running to and from it. It's a really neat job and helps the rad water heat up the oil quicker as well as keeping the oil cool.

 

As far as quantity to put back, I think that I would throw in about 4 litres to start with, run the engine for a bit and see where it is on the dipstick. CC say you should slightly overfill, until the engine stops breathing the excess out into the breather tank.

 

They sent everyone out a separate long dipstick with an easier to read flat on it, but don't panic if you haven't got it, once the engine stops putting oil into the catch tank, get a piece of wire and mark it up yourself.

 

Thinking of CC, there was an important recall. Do you know if the long top bolt holding your diff. has been replaced? The early ones had tendency to bend due to torque, and a bent bolt isn't a lot of good to anyone!

 

 

Paul J.

Loud pipes save lives, but quiet ones save your hearing.

 

Edited by - Paul Jacobs on 16 Aug 2007 13:06:04

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Paul,

 

Cheers for the info. I have the dip stick, and oil level is about 1 - 2 inches below the TOP notch (yes it is going all the way to the bottom), so is massivly overfilled.

 

Top bolt & spacers were replaced during prior servicing work (before I got it).

 

I'll have aother look at the cooler thing, as that may well be what is located under the plenum (bit like a laminova?)...

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I wouldnt judge then level by the dipstick - Caterhams have a poor history of dipstick calibration *wink*

 

if you over fill it,m the excess will be spat into the catch tank. Fill untill it spits and then determine the level on the dipstick *thumbup*

 

2 types of cooler on the duratec . The ford fitment is sandwiched between the oil filter and housing with water pipes also going in. The second is the rad in front of the water radiator.

 

If your currently overfilled then you should be spitting oil into the catch tank ?

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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I would empty the catch tank and then go for a light drive and see if it spits.

 

be carefull tho - if the tank over flows and goes under the car and all over the rear wheels you could loose control at the first junction you come too - especially if its wet. then you would have to go and get the trailer *tongue*

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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Ok, I need some more help:

 

CC quote GFE700 as the oil fliter part - My local motor factors (2 so far) can't find refernce to this part number.

 

Redline quote a ford part number 1020507 / gfe 497. This is too tall.

 

The current filter is a ufi2311800 - I've not tried to find anyone wiht this part numebr yet.

 

So, does anyone know what a GFE700 also fits?

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Mav,

 

During the heat of last summer I noticed a number of times that the oil temp on my CSR200 would get quite high - 100 or so. This is unlikely to be an issue for fully synthetic oils, however, I was still concerned and raised this matter with to CC. Last month they supplied FOC an Water/Oil cooler the same as on the 260. At Olton park the oil temp never went about 80.

 

As Dave said, The dip stick can be very unreliable, The golden rule is to overfill and let it spit out the excess into the catch tank.

 

If your catch tank is 2/3 full you added a tad too much oil. 500ml at a time is enough.

 

Like Paul, I got my oil filters from CC

 

Cheers

 

Darren

CSR230

 

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Mav ,

 

You *will* no doubt have oil temp issues. With the raceline wet sump on the road during a good hard blat the temp will go above 110C and on the track this will exceed 120C in about 7 fast laps of Oulton. The race cars with 2L engines also have air to oil coolers in the nose cone and dry sump

 

The oil temp is measured from the bulk oil in the wet sump .

 

I would advise you to get the oil cooling kit from CC now and fit it straight away.

 

I would also buy your first filter from CC and then cross reference it physically in the factors for future purchase. Mine using the raceline kit was from a crossflow escort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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Dave,

 

As far as I can see, the bulk oil temp on the CC dry sump is measured in the bell tank.

 

I'll call CC today - darren who did you speak with re the oil cooler?

 

I have no desire to pay CC prices for oil filters, plus postage, and further more, I have insufficient time to obtain such from them before Sunday.

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Yes the bulk is probably measured in the ds tank on a dry sump and sump pan on a wet sump.

 

thats fine having no desire to pay CC prices - but your stuffed if you dont know what you need 😬

 

I imagine the filter may be different with the oil/water cooler sandwich . The chassis rail is pretty close by so the filter may be shorter.

 

If you do go to spa without a cooller - just keep a close eye on the temps Mav *smile*. The seal on the crankshaft end is the weak point when exposed to elevated temps I'm informed - CC / RRT now use a higher temp seal safe to 130C oil temps.

 

Dave

 

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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