Griff Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Can anyone tell me if there are any clearance issues with a VVC head and the standard CC swirl tower on a dry sump system (2003 car)? Also, is it a straightforward switch of the ECU & immobilizer to cope with the added VVC wiring etc? I'm told the VVC needs a different front mount but otherwise should be a fairly strightforward swap - or is there lots more to it than this? Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 cc swirl tower should be ok. I think you might have some wiring loom issues unless the engine comes with a the full VVC loom. Is your current car Eu3 (probably from age) and what is the VVC engine Eu2 or EU3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 There will be missing some wires if the car hasn't got a VVC loom. I should think those can be "stolen" from an MGF loom, but the MGF loom alone will not be of much use as there are no connectors for the MFRU and only one connector for the ECU. HTH /r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powderpuff Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 The VVC drysump does need a different front mount, it lowers the engine slightly so as to clear the VVC mechanism off to the bonnet. The swirl tower is fine. As for the wiring, if you're going EU2 to EU3, then you'll need to modify the loom. What's the source of the engine loom? You ideally want one from a ZR160 not a TF160 as the wire lengths on various runs are better bizarely better on the front drive ZR installation than they are on the TF Edited to add that with the engine dropping slightly lower, you may need to file / grind a bit more off the drysump pump mounting otherwise it'll foul the steering column. The name's Puff, Powder Puff N7XTC Edited by - Powder Puff on 6 Aug 2007 14:13:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 This is an idea at the moment as my car is off the road with head problems. It just seems there are more VVC Xpower engines from ZRs and TFs than non-VVC and standard power seems the same or better than my non-functioning lump. The mechanical bits I can probably cope with. Not quite so sure about the electrics though So if it fits, then I'm sure the rest is possible (if not by me then by someone more qualified). Or maybe it's time to upgrade to an Emerald, assuming this isn't another "issue"?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powderpuff Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 I suspect that if you go the emerald route you'd be better off changing the cams in the VVC and removing the VVC mechanism. I'm not aware how many functioning VVC's have been mapped on an emerald yet, I suspect it's not many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Grif. The engine you were asking after in For Sale is my old x-power 140 engine. It is EU3, and certainly gave the full 140 horses in my lardy SV. I always ran with an appollo tank and took care to warm it up and change oil regulary. I replaced it with a VVC engine, and did as PowderPuff suggests. I removed VVC gubbins, and Rob Walker installed blanking kit and 285H cams for me. Then running an Emerald and roller barrels induction I had it map to give a nice healthy 185+ bhp. If you were to go this route I have 1 285H cam (for exhaust side) that I could sell at a reasonable price!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 Neil, So you effectively converted your new engine to non-VVC..?? I'd heard the VVC head breathes better than the standard K16 so sounds a straightforward route to sensible power. 180+ would keep me interested... I've still not heard from Rob re your old engine but it sounds ideal as an interim solution, perhaps a good base for later upgrades when my engine's back together. I'm assuming that your old engine isn't VVC so there won't be any wiring issues?? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Grif, my 'new' engine is now NON-VVC. A VVC head with no porting is good for close to 200bhp. My old engine was not a VVC one, so if you are already EU3 then it should drop straight in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 Perfect - so any ideas how to get hold of Rob? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 file / grind a bit more off the drysump pump mounting otherwise it'll foul the steering column.Or rotate the rack in it's mountings a fraction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewenm Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 need to file / grind a bit more off the drysump pump mounting otherwise it'll foul the steering column. Or rotate the rack in it's mountings a fraction. Or in the case of my installation, do both... The rack adjustment didn't give enough clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Worth getting confirmation from Emerald as to whether it has been done, but the K3 Emerald controller does have settings in the software for controlling VVC. If you wanted to run the engine 'as is'. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 Now found a suitable "interim" engine but the idea of a modified VVC does seem an interesting route to extra power - worth further exploration. Thanks all for your input *thumbup* Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I confirm that the Emerald can control the VVC mechanism I tried it on my car and it worked very well during the trail stage, after that it went a bit Pete Tongue because the cooling system could not cope with extra heat created by more horse power. If you want to pop round I can show you how it works Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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