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Remote stat setup Pictures needed


CharlieD

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Hi Darren,

 

I searched for a while for a suitable blank for the stat housing, in the end I used a short length of hose with a suitably sized metal insert and 2 hose clips - untill I find a more suitable blank -high and low at Stoneleigh to no avail.

 

Someone will ocme along now and quote me parts number no doubt - I do hope so 😬

 

Too young to be old !

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Mulling over the problem of blocking the heater return to the "old" thermostat housing I wonder if this is really necessary: why not keep the heater return plumbed into the original position? Think about it: if the heater water return is taken to the bypass at the new housing then it arrives at the old housing only milliseconds later than if the return goes to the old housing. Just a thought: any comments?
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No reason why you couldn't Mick - it's certainly the easiest thing to do. In my case I wanted to reduce my hose-run count and tidy the look of the engine bay a bit - I don't expect to get any other advantage out of it.

 

Item EC104 here looks like the chappy to cap the thermostat housing. You can also get a silicone version if you're feeling posh.

 

Darren E

 

Website and Emerald maps library

 

Superlight R #54

 

Edited by - k80rum on 27 Jun 2007 19:45:54

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Mick,

 

The idea behind the heater return being fed into the larger bypass is to mix the water so there is a constant, regulated temperature of water entering the block and minimizing damage caused by the thermal shock theory.

 

This site posted earlier explains the theory.

 

To all intents and purposes this is probably perfectionism but the theory holds that if you have the heater running the outflow is going to be colder and feeding directly into the block. Similarly without the heater flowing you are going to have hot water bypassing the radiator and entering the block.

This is of course what currently happens, however, in my mind, if I'm going to go to the expense/hassle of fitting a PRRT I might as well go the extra mile, since it is going to cost very little, fitting the best possible system I can envisage.

 

Incidently, as I've already posted I shall be starting my engine and running at Snetterton on 11th using a standard R400 radiator setup, with no thermostat.

 

 

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

 

Edited by - Nifty on 27 Jun 2007 18:03:23

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> The grey 82oC thermostat on it's own is part number PEL500110 and it cost me £7.54 +VAT.

 

Oh cr@p, so I've spent 55 odd quid on the PCH001190 kit and it doesn't even have the correct thermostat (has the cream one), and the correct one is available separately anyway for about a tenner!! *thumbdown*

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

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Bob,

 

You will need some of the rubber tubes in the kit, particular the large one and the T section that fits into the top water pipe going to the radiator.

Having said that £55 is dear.

 

I tried to source the seperate rubber pipes and T section but Landrover only sell them as a kit and even getting that through Jason in the trade it would still have cost near enough £50.

 

Once I've got more time in the autumn I'll look into sorting a "Caterham kit". This is another reason for holding off modifying my car, because I will use it as the prototype so I want to think long and hard about the various options for achieving the best result.

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

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Niffty Said..

I bought it from Jason - Wyatt Engineering .... who service my Land Rover.

If you wish I could send you this one (at £7.54 +VAT +postage) and I'll get another one.


 

Hi Niffty, I'd be interested in taking you up on that offer for the 82deg stat if it still stands *wavey*

 

Cheers

 

Rob

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