CharlieD Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Hi, I like others am in search of a better way to cool the K series Seven. Have found many posts re the Remote stat but want to see photos of how the set up is done. My car is a standard K series R300 with heater. Failing that an explanation of the system. Anyone help? CharlieD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I have the bits from a Freelander to do just this. The only example I have seen pictures of were from Neil Elwis, which he sent me. If he gives me permission I'd be quite happy to post these on my Webshots pages. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I've got a few piccies of my Land Rover stat modification too somewhere . . . Fits nicely with the a little chopping of the hoses that come in the Land Rover bag. Temp gets to 80 - and stays there regardless. Although I have to say that's what it used to do before. But, theoretically, now it doesn't keep dumping cold water into the engine . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieD Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Thanks both , look forward to the link etc!!! Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Hi Nifty, Charlie I'm fine with you using any of my piccy's 😬 cheers Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Hi CharlieD, A bit of background: I've a DS 1.8K 217.3 BHP with OE CC heater, plumbed as follows: Top hose from water rail to rad fitted with 32mm T (from the Freelander kit) this takes a full size hose down to the inlet of the PRRT stat mounted just above the steering rack, the retun form the rad also connecters to this and the outley goes via the J hose to the Rover stat housing, this has the stat outer ring fitted with the wax capsule removed. The heater return to the Rover plastic housing on the engine block is blanked off The heater feeds from the water rail via the CC valve and the return then comes back to the 32mm new hose inbetween the T and the PRRT stat here I inserted a short submarine tube and using an 18mm T plumbed in the heater retund and expansion bottle return too. (spin the expansion bottle through 180 degrees to accomadate this - with the later type spherical bottle anyway) The normal bleed hose from above No 1 inlet to expansion bottle is retained. The theory is the the PRRT works in a simialar fashion to a household shower with a HOT feed (from top hose), a COLD feed (return form rad), and an outlet, this outlet is then capable of maintianing the return water to the engine at a near constat temperature reduce the thermal cycling effect present in the OE set up, the reloaction of the heater return also aids this. A bit wordy Temp as stated before 83 degrees I've had no cooling issues whatsoever, warm up takes around 4 miles , then the fun starts Dave Walker even commented on it's ability to maitan a constat temp without any fuss during mapping last week! Try these guys for the kit they were way cheaper than anyone else when I got mine www.land-rover-parts-shop.com Shout if you need any more piccy's Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Neil's pictures are now on display here. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 The heater feeds from the water rail via the CC valve and the return then comes back to the 32mm new hose inbetween the T and the PRRT stat here I inserted a short submarine tubeSo if one has no heater one has to blank off the back of the water rail & the heater return to the Rover plastic housing on the engine block. Am I correct? Where have you fitted your ecu & temp gauge sensors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Is there anything in principle that would prevent you from making a similar setup as described above with the landrover part, but instead use an additional K series themostat housing? Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 My setup is very similar in terms of plumbing in the stat, but I didn't change any of the rest of the cooling system - so the rail with the senders in is left alonge. The submaring pipe, I think I shortened a bit, so that still links to the flat Rover expansion bottle. I got the stat bit down nearer the front, so it is nearly vertical, using a chopped off 90 deg bit of Land Rover hose to link it direct to the rad. A short straight bit back to the submarine pipe (in effect, using the stat to make the S-bend pipe that used to be there) and a simple straight line up under the expansion bottle to the Land Rover tee in the top hose. Easy. I too have the original stat in the original housing, with the middle bit knocked out to provide a flow restriction. I took some more piccies tonight, so if anyone wants any, email me. The Land Rover stat is, I believe, a pressure release one as well as temp dependant - so it opens in any situation it should be opening - trying to stop the thermal shock of the original system hitting the head. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Is this the thermostat kit I need to order? here Thanks Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Looks like the one they used here Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 That's the one - the PCH001190 from Land Rover - it's quite expensive. That's all I needed and used. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertfatal Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Bri, I would be very interested in photos of your set-up, can you email them to me? bertfatal@hotmail.com Thanks Bertfatal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 also fyi there are two stat temps available - 87 deg (IIRC) and 82 deg. The Freeloader kit comes with the 87, the 82 is avialable separately at around a tenner. I didn't think hte freeloader kit was all that dear at around £55 delivered. You'll either need to poke the middle out of the existing stat, or buy a seal carrier (from LR) (or make one yourself out of an old bit of thin ally, as I did) since the rubber seal on the original stat housing is located on the stat body itself. If you just take the stat out there's nowhere for the seal to go. Martin Aero'd supersported ex-Roadsports B...anyone got a cheap LSD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I'm interested in this too (he says, merrily jumping on the bandwagon.. ) At the risk of muddying the waters tho, I thought the one in BobT's link was the cream 87deg one and that the general consensus was that the grey 82deg one was the better choice (PEL500150 ) I've been unable to find this on the Land-rover-parts web site tho. Is the 82deg one, the one to get - Its available elsewhere for about 56 quids. Or is the 87deg one what people are going for? Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 The grey 82oC thermostat on it's own is part number PEL500110 and it cost me £7.54 +VAT. A useful page explaining the benefits of the PRRT can be found here. This may also be of use. This SELOC page highlights the differences between the three thermostats, explaining why you want the grey one. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Edited by - Nifty on 26 Jun 2007 18:03:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Thanks Nifty. PRT Colours : - Cream is 88° With hard Spring [Designed for Deisel and V8 applications] - Black is 82° With Hard Spring (Designed for a V8 and used as a stopgap with K4 engines) - Grey is 82° With Light Spring I'm going to order the Grey thermostat and build a hose kit/T piece to suit. Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Edited by - k80rum on 26 Jun 2007 18:25:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I haven't fitted my remote stat as yet because I intend to get a bespoke tube manufactured to be the bypass from the top hose to the PRRT. The reason for this is that in order to maximize the benefit of the system, and minimise the risk of any thermal shock issues all the feeds off and to the water system need to be fed into the bypass hose before the flow reaches the PRRT. So the manufactured bypass hose needs to incorporate the heater return and the expansion tank feed. If the heater return feeds into the old thermostat housing bypass connection you are going to get "cold" water fed into the engine when the heater is in use - acting against the PRRTs temperature equalization function. I may also incorporate the temp sender bosses into it too. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 That sounds like a good move Nifty - I think using it to relocate the temp senders would definitely be worthwhile. I haven't got a heater any longer so my bypass hose should be just that but should as you mention, incorporate the expansion tank feed. Out of interest, where did you buy your PEL500110 from? I can't find anywhere online to place an order. I think I may need to ring up rimmer bros or the land rover spares shop and ask for it verbally.. Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I bought it from Jason - Wyatt Engineering .... who service my Land Rover. If you wish I could send you this one (at £7.54 +VAT +postage) and I'll get another one. Jason charged me what he was charged, which I assume was a trade price, so unless you know someone in the trade I don't imagine you'd get it quite as cheap. I have been thinking that if Ernie can get the bypass tube with fittings made up cheap enough we might be able to offer a bespoke "Nifty Bits" PRRT kit to fit a 7. However, as I said in a previous post this is unlikely to happen before the autumn/winter since we are flat out with paid work/50th stuff and trying to get some mirrors delivered. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 If you're sure that's okay, I'll take you up the offer to buy from you Nifty - I'll mail you offline to sort things out. Many thanks Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 As Mick suggested earlier, with no heater in the equation, you can presumably blank off the heater/bypass outlet on the OEM plastic housing behind the water pump, and also the back of the water rail above the exhaust. The last mod would be to blank off the expansion tank outlet from the block and have a take off in the PRRT bypass hose Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Hi Mick,bobt & Nifty Sorry for the slow reply couldn't get into the office for flood water yesterday, spent most of it trying to rescue Mrs 7 wonder cars too - thasnkfully still dry! Mick: If your not running a heater then yes black off the outlet on the water rail and the inlet on the OE stat housing, i'm running both my sensor in the OE CC water rail pretty much above No 4 primary with no adverse effects, the promaries are wrpaped though. bobt: Yep that's the kit, seems from K80rum post they now offer a variety of stats too! Nifty: The photos are the initial instal photo's the fianl set up is as you speak of it, I inserted a shortend submarine hose in the bypass hose just about in fornt of the timing belkt cover then fed the expansion bottle return and heater return into this using an 18mm T that was ALL the water reutning to the enginge does so via the PRRT stat. cheers, Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Those photos certainly make it easier to understand how the installation's performed on a caterham, 7WotW Does anyone have suggestions on how to blank off the plastic 'heater' outlet at the block? The end of the water rail isn't too bad since it's metal, but the only way I can see of tackling the other end is with some kind of rubber/silicone blanking cap of the right size, since the housing's plastic. Has anyone ever seen such a thing All the best, Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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