Electrics

[Site Manager]

Hi all,

 

I've just had this message, does anyone have any idea where the problem might lie?

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I have a 89 Caterham that I built from a kit.

 

I now live in the USA, and I brought it from England with me.

 

I have a problem that I can not resolve, perhaps you could advise me.

 

When I start the car the instruments do not work.

 

After some driving they sometimes come on, but the red ignition light will come on simultaneously.

 

If I stop the engine and restart it, the instruments again do not work.

 

When I just turn the ignition key, without starting the engine, the red ignition light does not come on.

 

Over time the when the car is stored in the garage the battery completely discharges and will not accept a charge from a battery charger (which says that the battery is fully charged).

 

I have just bought a new battery which has not fixed the problem.

 

I have some sort of electrical problem. Could you point me in the right direction?

 

Thanks

 

Tino Belli

 

[CHRIS CLARK]

My first guess would be a faulty rectifier pack in the alternator.A check at an auto electrical workshop can prove/disprove this fairly easily. Alternatively, you could use a multi-meter to check the output etc. Good luck!!!!!!!

[Dave H]

As Chris says - Alternator is favorite - but check the leads running to it - they get cooked running close to the exhuast and start mis-behaving. The insulation breaks down and stops insulating.

[John E]

I had all sorts of similar problems en route to Le Mans. Red light, temp gauge going ape ****, wipers stopped, fuel gauge all over the show etc etc. Turned out to be the earth under the scuttle on the passenger side. Mr Rat Race pointed me towards it. Of course the plate is powder coated. Some elbow and emery sorted it out. Best of luck.

[Mike Bees]

The one place the powder coating won't fall off I suppose...

 

Mike

[elie boone]

first check if the engine is connected to the chassis with a copper strip.then turn on the ignition key,pull out the bulbholder of the ignition light,brown/yellow is the alternator site when the engine is not turning this is negative. check whith a simple bulblight,(thake power direct from the + of the battry with one wire and hold the other wire against the brown/yellow the checkbulb must light up, if not there is a neg.problem on the alternator side, if it lights up see if there is power on the green wire, if not check the fuses or any connector for rust and use no corrode battery grease to prevent them rusting especially on the neg. connectors (if the engine is running both sides on your ignition light must be positive)and investing money in a heat resistent sleave for all electrics close to any heat is the best idea.

 

 

[R2D2]

I have a 1989 car that I have just re-wired completely.

 

All of the instrument earths are looped together in the loom and maybe there is a fault here. My loom had quite a lot of chafed wires and the alternator wiring was damaged inside the loom and we didn't find it until we unwrapped the complete loom.

 

The alternator cable went all round the front nose of the car and was damaged in about 8 places where the tie wraps which had been used by the guy who built it were overtightened and had rubbed with vibration.