Gear box removal

[Ged]

On the way to Donington my car jammed in 6th gear. I can move the lever into neutral but 6th is still engaged, so the box has to come out.

Is it recommended to remove the engine and box in one unit, or is it easier to seperate them in-situ, remove engine first, followed by gear box? Bear in mind I will be working on my own with minimal help from SWMBO.

Is it necessary to remove the gear lever, or is there sufficient clearance to edge it forward, then drop it down?

Any advice would be gratefully received, I didn't build the car, so it's my first time removing or installing the engine/gear box.

[Shaun_E]

Gear lever needs removing.

It is probably easier to take engine and gearbox out together otherwise you have to support the gearbox at the front while the engine comes out.

Have something under the car to catch the gearbox oil as the propshaft slides out.

 

Yellow SL #32

[Alex Wong1697456877]

Which engine?

 

For a Vx, separate engine and box, engine comes out, undo the two bolts holding the mount to the chassis, the lever can stay in but if it's easy to get to, take it off. Put the box on a jack with wheels. If you can't get at the lever, lift the tunnel cover and lift the gaitor over the lever to give yourself as much room as possible.

 

Disconnect speedo drive and reverse switch.

 

The gearbox should slide forwards and out with a bit of tilting up and down to get the lever out. As mentioned, don't forget, oil will pour out the back of the gearbox if it's not level. It's worth having a plug for this if you can get one.

 

Edited by - Alex Wong on 4 Jun 2007 09:59:13

[Ged]

Thanks for the replies.

 

It's 1.4 k series. Central hand brake

It looks like I'll try taking both out together. I'll have to remove the tunnel top to get at the gear lever bolts. I think this will mean slackening off the hand brake cables to allow the h/brake lever to go vertical. Does this sound about right?

I've already drained the gear box oil, but no doubt there'll be enough left to cause a mess.

[Irrelevant]

I used to think it was easier taking them out together, after I'd done it once. Now, after doing it on loads of Caterhams, I think it's easier splitting the engine off first.

 

If you're working on your own(ish), I'd definately take the engine out first, otherwise, you're very likely to scratch/crush/damage something with the engine and box swinging about. Plus it's nice being able to take the box out without having to drain the oil.

[k80rum]

After the gearbox has been removed, it may be worth getting the two gearbox mounting bolts (the ones that pass through the U-bracket at the back of the gearbox and bolt through the tunnel crossmember) spot welded to either a C-shaped rod which can connect the heads, or directly to the U-bracket itself

 

It's something I'm about to do while my 'box is out because in theory it should make removing and refitting the tail of the gearbox a much easier process - you no longer need to hold the bolt heads when you tighten/loosen the nuts.

 

All the best,

 

 

Darren E

 

Website K80RUM and Emerald maps library

 

Superlight R #54

 

 

[Ged]

Thanks for all your advice.

It all came out as one unit about ½ hr ago, it's now split into two units, so just the bell housing to remove, but I needed a smoke first. SWMBO was brilliant, pushing and poking at wires, then operating the hoist whilst I controlled the gear box. 🥰

Next question, how best to package it to get it couriered to Road and Race? I know they have special boxes for sending them out, but I don't. I was thinking of lashings of bubblewrap then wrapping in brown paper, with a protective tube over the input shaft.

[RichardUSA]

For what it's worth when I got my Zetec it was crated and anchored to the bottom of the crate using it's own motor mounts / bolts. Wasn't going anywhere. Once anchored to a substantial length of lumber which is firmly anchored to a wooden platform it's just a matter of boxing it in.

Don't forget the 'this side up'. 😳