Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 29, 2007 Support Team Share Posted May 29, 2007 While replacing the engine mount bolts that mysteriously vanished (nightmare job ) I noticed some coolant on the oil filter. Traced this to a slight weep from the water rail where the forward mount is welded to it. I will order a new one but this will be too late for a track day and 2 sprints this weekend at Pembrey. Question is - will it survive if I keep an eye on coolant level? Is there a temporary fix I could get done - welded or soldered maybe - preferably without having to drain the coolant. If so any recommendation within 1/2 hour or so drive of Slough would be appreciated. If anyone has a surplus EU2 water rail then I would gratefully take it off your hands. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Shaun it is only made out of steel, so there is no reason why you couldn't remove and take it to a local garage/welder and get them to braze it for you. - should then last for ever. Alternatively, clean it off and use some quick drying Ardadite - most likely will last even longer. You will get a nasty shock if you come to price a replacement... JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Araldite will not survive the temperature, chemical metal will. R500 260 BHP Mango Madness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 30, 2007 Author Support Team Share Posted May 30, 2007 Cheers - I'll try some chemical metal and if that doesn't hold I'll get it brazed. I did look on the website and it is £90 for a new one but it is a different design to the one I have. Looks like repair is therefore the only option. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 If anyone has a surplus EU2 water rail then I would gratefully take it off your hands. I "think" I have a R500 type one on the garage - I cant remember if I sold it or not but I'm not back home until Thursday nite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 I'm sure you have checked, but make sure that the actual leak isn't the good 'ol water rail gasket at the other end, and that the coolant hasn't then seeped along the rail. Gasket leak is annoyingly common... www.mycaterham.com here Videos here 101,000 miles car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 And if you do need it brazed then let me know and I will get it done in my factory for you. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 30, 2007 Author Support Team Share Posted May 30, 2007 Good point Angus - I haven't actually checked that - will do tonight. Come to think of it, when I jacked the front of the car up the drip stopped - doh. 😳 I guess the trauma of fitting the engine mount bolts was all too much for me. Dave - let me know if you have got one as I may still be interested. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 30, 2007 Author Support Team Share Posted May 30, 2007 Thank you Brent. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Peter, I'm not saying you are wrong but there is a certain Club member who will be nameless... Showing great strength, he managed to puncture a hole in the upper cam ladder using the waterrail as a crowbar. The resulting leak was patched up with Araldite and that was a couple of years ago... JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 John i agree with you in fact it is fantastic stuff. I recently had to permently seal a car pipe with a bung and the temperature rating of the stuff was only around 75 degrees so i did not use it. 😬 R500 260 BHP Mango Madness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 if you do take the water rail off fit a new gasket, I have never had one successfully seal when reusing. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 30, 2007 Author Support Team Share Posted May 30, 2007 It is a tiny crack in the pipe where the forward mount is brazed to it. I don't have time before Friday's track day to take it off, fix it and refill the system ☹️ (nor do I have a new gasket). Have tried some of that metal epoxy but can't get it to seal quickly enough before the coolant starts to come through. I'll just have to keep an eye on the temperature tomorrow. Assuming it survives the weekend I'll take it off next week and get it brazed. Brent - can I give you a call next week to arrange getting it to you? Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edh Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Hi Shaun, I've had my left hand engine bracket break at the weld, dropping my engine by a fair bit! I replaced the bracket and during the process, the exact same thing that happened to you, has happened to me ❗ Anyway, I've been trying to get hold of the part department all day and its constantly engaged (why can't they have a queuing system, at least then I know I'm going to get through eventually!!!!!), I thought I'd do a bit of research whilst waiting and came accross this thread, it looks like I might be able to save myself a bit of cash, the question is; did you manage to get yours fixed and if so how (and where) 🤔 (I've some chemical weld that I've used on my fuel tank, so am hoping that I can use that) TIA Ed Currently not quite 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted September 25, 2007 Author Support Team Share Posted September 25, 2007 Ed - epoxy survived the trackday just but the two sprints over the next 2 days killed it. I got the car home without incident and then had the water rail brazed around the crack. Unfortunately this didn't cure the leak and I ended up buying one from ebay for £20. If you can find a good secondhand one then do, else you will have to get it repaired - just make sure you have tested the repair throroughly. The new style one does fit apparently but connections and sensors may be in slightly different places causing some minor headaches. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin H Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Ed - A few I had an engine mount break, and (you'll be surprised to hear) the same issue. I took it off, used a MIG welder, re welded it, ground down the excess, and painted it. Never had a problem again! Only thing you need to watch out for is the power on the welder as the pipe is quite thin walled, and you will soon put dirty great holes in the side! If you get someone to do it for you it really shouldn't take more than 10 mins. Hope you get it sorted. Gavin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edh Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks for the response guys. Is the part caterham specific 🤔 Ed Not quite 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Was changing the oil on my car today (97 1.6k ss) and when warming up and refilling, noticed weeping on the water rail on mine (at the weld on the front connector). Is this only Caterham specific part or is it possible to get one from a local motor factors ? Bit of a numpty on diy for the car so this will be the first time for doing anything other than oil change !! Steve Campbell P889 GRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 caterham part and common failier. 😔 the forward fixing point to the head needs a spacer/washers behind it other wise it stresses the weld. you can either buy a new one (about £80 I recall) or get it weled locally. I would also just double check that the weep is not infact at the other end with the gasket and running down the pipe to this point ? here is C7 TOP Taffia rear gunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 if you do change it try and get an experienced local to help - as it will involve a coolant drain and refill (big opportunity for cock up and ££ 😬) here is C7 TOP Taffia rear gunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now