Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 What is the flow of oil throght the dry sump, engine oild filter etc please Anyone have a diagram NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 23, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted May 23, 2007 No diagram, but ....... Starting from the sump: 1. Oil/air is scavenged from the sump via the scavenge pump to enter the tower of the belltank. Swirls around tower on way to bottom to reduce air in the mix. 2. The oil is drawn from the bottom of the belltank by the engine's own oil pump - bottom hose connecting the belltank to the front right hand side of the sump. This routing does not enter into the sump, but is routed through the sump to the original pick-up point to the oil pump. 3. From this point it's the same as a wet sump setup - filter, pump, galleries, then exit at various points in the engine, and returns via gravity to the sump and start again. Stu. www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Edited by - sforshaw on 23 May 2007 11:50:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Hmmmmm, thanks Had a misshap while on tour this weekend Hit a large rock which smashed off the oil filter housing. Came to a rest within 100 yards. I killed the engine within a couple of seconds and before coming to a rest. Obviously oil spewed everywhere. Looked quite spectacular, like a WW2 fighter going down :) I am hopeing that the engine is ok. Have a replacemnet oil filter housing on order, the sump seems to me ok but not fully checked yet. From what I can see it looked like the housing broke away leaving the bults intact on the sump NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Edited by - Petrolhead on 23 May 2007 12:44:27 Edited by - Petrolhead on 23 May 2007 12:45:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I would be inclined to have the big end & main bearings checked before firing it up again. As this was accidental damage following a "collision" on a public road I would have thought your insurance would pay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted May 23, 2007 Area Representative Share Posted May 23, 2007 Exactly the same thing happened to me with my R300, dry sumped. Hit a lump of concrete left in the road on a country lane. Took the oil filter housing clean off. Stopped the engine almost immediately. Car went back to CC Dartford and everthing was OK. New oil filter housing and new passenger side floor, as it holed that as well. I think it should be OK, although only you know how long it took you to switch off. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 on the other hand - if your oil supply has ceased for a few seconds then you may have bearing damage. One local member had this and on his next blat the engine threw a rod I know its not wnat you want to hear but a bearing inspection would be wise. here is C7 TOP Taffia Area Rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 I assume on inspecting the bearing it will be fairly obvious if they are damaged and if I am already at the point of removing caps then should I not just replace the bearings anyway? NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 you can remove the caps and see if there is any damage apparent on the bearings - number 4 will be be the worst if starvation has occured, if your going to replace the bearings then you will need to remove the pistons and rods, so the head will need to come off. Then you need to inspect the crank surface and if you need to remove the crank the botom end has to come apart. ☹️ here is C7 TOP Taffia Area Rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ok, Thanks Dave, just to clarify I will be checking the big ends only? I will be taking a cap off and inspecting one half on the bearing? NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Out of interest I spoke to bret at caterham Midlands. He feels I should be ok as I killed the engine quickly. There was a customer who did the same when driving into their premises, he then reversed and drove around the obstacle and then drove up to the garage with no oil NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 sounds like your trying to convince yourself you dont need to check the bearings ? checking the bearings will cost you 1 tube of anaerobic sealant, 4 L of brake cleaner,oil and filter and a day to either hook the engine out or do the very messy way on your back under the car. or it could throw a rod..... ☹️ yes - you would start by removing the caps on the ends of the rods - number 4 is the last to recieve the oil supply. If they show signs of wear then you will have to consider further inspection. here is C7 TOP Taffia Area Rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 checking the bearings will cost you 1 tube of anaerobic sealant, 4 L of brake cleaner,oil and filter and a day to either hook the engine out or do the very messy way on your back under the car. Point taken Dave, will have to do this the messy way on my back tho :( What is anaerobic sealant? Is there not a block to sump gasket? Sorry for the numpty questions NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Trackday 2nd April Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now