A.J. Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 These may seem like a numpty questions but I do prefer to learn by other peoples mistakes rather than my own, and it is not because I am mechanicaly retarded. Searches of tech have been helpful up to a point but do not address the basis I require. (no k series manual). I have all the equipment I need (engine hoist etc,) but would find the following info helpfull 1 Which pick up points on the engine are recommended ( I would prefer to remove as few components as possible) 2 Do I need to remove the inlet and exhaust system ( 1994 de-dion system with removable diagonals) Once again I appreciate all help I provided ( experienced engineer but first Caterham 7 engine removal, I am not stupid enough to think I know it all ) Many thanks, Aaln Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 AJ, 1. two straps round the engine will suffice. I use the tie down straps from my trailer - rated at 1500 kg or something... 2. Inlet - Probably not, Exhaust yes. Label everything as you take it apart. Ensure you remove the two bolts at the bottom of the sump that fit in pointing towards the front of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 I use a sling around the engine. Remove exhaust side diagonal,exhaust manifold, alternator, starter. I also take off the coil but this is just to help the sling go around. Disconnect all electrics, fuel and water, six bolts to the bell housing and remove the two engine mounts. I think thats it. Engine will then slip off the gearbox and lift out. Sometimes the engine/gearbox takes a bit of force to separate as the dowels corrode in their holes. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 Engine will then slip off the gearbox and lift out. Sometimes the engine/gearbox takes a bit of force to separate as the dowels corrode in their holes. Leave clutch cable connected; light hand push on the clutch pedal at the right moment moves the engine off gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 No need to remove alternator - though space is tight with it still attached. Also, I put pipe lagging around chassis tubes in vulnerable places to avoid damage to the powdercoat. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 12, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted May 12, 2007 I also leave the alternator fitted - it's a real PITA to fit after the engine's back in! Stu. www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 That's a cunning tip Mick ! (why didn't I think of that ?) Do you have an equally good one for locating the engine on the way back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Do you have an equally good one for locating the engine on the way back in Yes: jack up the gearbox until it's wedged up against the tunnel, stops it from wobbling around. If the engine doesn't slide onto the input shaft after a few minutes go & have a cup of something as when you get back it almost jumps on. I have to admit that these tricks & the one with the clutch are not my original ideas but copied from others. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Ahhhh, the old cup of tea trick ...... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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