Simon Dart Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Yes thats how I feel about it right now! I've got a early type 1400SS and I can't seem to get all the air out of the cooling system. It needs 2000 rpm to circulate the coolant properly. The new thermostat and waterpump have both been checked, I get the front of the car above the heater matrix with the heater tap open and the top heater hose off, fill from both the rad and expansion tank, but no luck yet. Any one got any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 i have never had a problem with this the way i do it is to fill head tank with the bleed valve open till water comes out of bleed valve on top of rad put top on head tank and tighten bleed valve start car remove top hose on heater fill till water comes out of the heater you may have to do this more than once as the water seeps through system when you hold the hose up it will do the same as jacking the car up also make sure you have the lever pulled out in the car to let the water pass in to the heater from engine good luck fredid=blue> smile.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorAtle Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 No answer, but a follow-up question - why would you raise the front of the car AND have the top heater hose off? If the car is level the top heater hose would be the highest point and you need to fill from there as well. This does not apply if you raise the front. Or am I wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dart Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 TorAtle, Yeah, what you say makes sense but the air still seems to lock the coolant in place it won't come out even with the heater 2 inches lower than the top of the rad, My hunch the water rail seems to not be a large enough diameter to pass the air easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Get the system warmed up with the heater open. Get the front of the car as high as you can. Make sure the header tank is full. Open the bleed screw on the top of the rad (I'm pretty sure I closed the header tank at this point) and wait until water comes out (engine running obviously). Do it up. Refill the header tank if necessary and repeat until it all stabilises. Take the car out on a good blat to get the temps up again and check to see that nothing has gone awry. Repeat the above if it has. Last time that's more or less how I sorted mine out - search the forum from as long ago as you can as I posted details in response to a similar thread not long after I did it. I think bleeding it off when it's warm is one of the key things...having the heater open is critical too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 A pentagram painted on the floor of the garage sometimes helps Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cps Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 ...but only if drawn using Kid=red> ryptonite! cool.gif Chris R77 CPS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Is the coolent bleed from the inlet side of the cylinder head OK - sometimes it can get blocked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Last post is the most important one!![:0] Since this thread started with a 1.4 K its got to be it, remove the induction and drill out the valve I'd put money on the fact that it's blocked.!!!!!!!! jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dart Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 Allen, Johnty, This sounds interesting, I'd love to know what you're talking about, but I haven't a clue. Could you please explain in a little more detail? Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Trace the smaller pipe from your header tank back to the inlet manifold. It terminated is a small brass fitting wich is in effect a one way valve supposed to bleed trapped Cylinder head air back to the header tank. BUT it gums up and stops working so you get a build up of air in the head What we actually do now is drill it out completly removing the one way effect and the resultant v. small bleed of collant back to the header tank is of no consequence in the grand scheme. If its not done you can run into seroius damage in the K head department. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dart Posted April 5, 2002 Author Share Posted April 5, 2002 Johnty, Thanks for that, I will investigate. Meanwhile I tried another hot bleed from the heater hose. A miniscule amount of air came out and no problems on the way home,Yipee. I can't believe such a small amount of air causes such a problem. Thanks all. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted April 5, 2002 Share Posted April 5, 2002 Presumably you weren't seeing steam or anything, just the temp needle rocketing? I would think it possible that the bit of air you had out of the system could have become trapped around the sender (and will have expanded when it was really hot anyway) which could give wild readings? Still, good that you got it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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