Phil P Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 I am about to take the manifold off to paint it with some high temp paint. I've noticed that the manifold on my xflow is mounted with hex drive cap head bolts, as opposed to studs & nuts. I'm considering getting some copper gaskets from Roger King & was wondering whether studs or bolts should be used to mount the manifold? Thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 Swings & roundabouts, studs help position the manifold and should corrosion occur give you two bites of the cherry (either the nut comes off or the stud comes out). However, corrosion is usually limited to the thread that sticks out, and the space is limited so cap head screws make sense, they are also very unlikely to be over tightned and rounded off like nuts. On my xflow I opted for a mix, a couple of studs (one each end)for location and the rest stainless cap head screws. Regards allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coose Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 Studs, brass nuts & copaslip! (oo-er!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 If in doubt ask roger! rumour has it he's getting the hang of these crossflows now. T.F@O.F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 I had a hex head bolt from the "twin pipe" centre section drop out the other day. Made the car sound like a tractor! After trying several local spares shops for hex bolts I had to eventually opt for a stud and nut. It was as I attempted to fit the new stud to the twin part that I found out why I have hex bolts. The stud fitted the head OK, but with the manifold in place the nut was touching the pipe part, making it impossible to rotate. A bit of musical bolts/studs sorted it in the end. You just dont get this sort of challenge with all these new fangled modern engines wink.gif Steve www.Se7en-Up.co.uk id=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Septimus Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 The original (cast iron!) Ford exhaust manifold on my 68 Xflow was held on with (Ford) hex bolts and spring washers. When I finally felt I could cope with an extra 3 or 4 bhp (!) and fitted a 4 branch it was easier to fit this with studs on the central two holes as these located the whole thing whilst it was bolted up. The studs came from an old BMC A series head I think and brass nuts should be used with steel washers. The outer pipes are still fitted with the original bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil P Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 Thanks for your comments guys. Hadn't considered clearance for the nuts aganist the tubes on the centre section. Looks like I'll be going for an assortment of studs/ brass nuts & hex bolts - all with plenty of coppaslip! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 On my x flow with competition exhaust I have used caphead bolts with copper gaskets, supplied by RK. On the centre pipe it may not be possible to use a locking washer due to the proximity of the pipe. I also found that the caphead bolt in this fixing was of a slightly smaller head dimension for the same reason. The copper gaskets from RK are excellent value for money and unlike other types can be reused a few times. I also use a small amount of Loctite on the bolts when fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 John (E) Interesting that you used loctite on the bolts. I considered this but thought the heat would stop it working. I checked my bolts again this morning and one had come slightly loose. This is after only a couple of 100 miles. I have now tightened it to an approx torque of "FT" Can you let me know the "part no" or type/make of thread lock you used. Cheers Steve www.Se7en-Up.co.uk id=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 I use either Loctite 243 or 262 I cant remember which. go to the Loctite site where there is stacks of info. using the above method the bolts do not come undone and I do not blow gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Indeed, Loctite 270 etc does become degraded by heat. The two sure ways are to tab-washer or lock-wire the offending fixing. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Cheers John. Plenty of info on their site - looks like it will be 272 for me. http://www.loctite.co.uk/PRODUCTS/272.htm Steve www.Se7en-Up.co.uk id=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asklepios Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Phil, Lockwire, but drill the cap head bolts before use as they heat harden an b..... up your drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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