Brucey Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 Hi Guys I'm toying with the idea of fitting a big red starter button on my 1993 1400kss. (yes I'm getting that bored!) Used to be loads on e bay, but the only one I could see belonged to a Mondeo and came with a relay . I intend to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) by retaining the ingition key/barrel and just using the button to turn the engine over. Where do people site the button to prevent accidental operation? I've got a big red button , but it needs at least a 22mm diam hole and has no 'engine start' label. Does the writing rub off on the proper buttons? I also have most the bits to fit my 2nd hand Apollo, but would like to fit a 1 way valve in the cam cover breather to prevent 'drain back'. I'm still not 100% sure if this is the right thing to do. The whole set up looks alarmingly Heath Robinson. I don't know if I even want to try to get the oil pipe through the alternator belt . Dunsfold Handling day is the nearest my car has ever got to a track, although there is a few nice corners along the A20 between Folkestone and Saltwood that may slop the oil around a bit 😬 Any help/advice appreiated. Bruce. Edited by - brucey on 11 Mar 2007 23:44:25 Edited by - brucey on 12 Mar 2007 15:07:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 If you have a quick release wheel then put the start button where the horn is it is the only logical place Then move the horn to where most people put the starter button on the left as CC do No the standard big red buttons have no writing on them. and are available for app. £9 from farnells Apollo tanks can be fiddly to fit but do protect the engine i think the most technical bit will be drilling the fitting into the cam cover. Cant comment on a one way valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 Trevor, Thanks for the advice No QR wheel I'm afraid so will probably put it on the dash to the LHS of the wheel. I guess the one I've got will do if they don't have writing on anyway. Any idea what size hole is required to fit the Cateram/Farnell button? I'll remove the cam cover to drill the hole (I've got a well equiped shed) I assume you run without a 1 way valve. I was more cocerned how to hold the tank at the top against the chassis tube without squashing it with the jubilee clip and fixing the bottom so I can remove the drain plug (short ally hex) without the tank rotating. With all those pipes and joints, it just seems I may be adding another 7 opportunities to get an oil leak! Is using ptfe tape on the joints a good idea? (maybe one for tech talk) Bruce Edited by - Brucey on 11 Mar 2007 23:42:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 Hold the top of the tank with a cable tie Why not put it on the right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Brucey I've got a spare genuine Caterham starter button - never used. Blatmail me if you are interested See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share Posted March 12, 2007 7hev, YHM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 YHM back See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Drilling the cam cover is the easy part. The difficult part is fitting the hoses to the sandwich plate & arranging their passage through the alternator belt. The alternator also gets in the way as does the exhaust. So do the easy thing & remove both before you start. There is also a small flange which can rub the hoses & with the alternator out of the way it's easier to get a dremmel or something in there. I did it the hard way & ended up having to get Caterham to tighten the connections because it leaked. Many thanks to Simon Lambert for arranging this at short notice many moons ago! I didn't bother with the 1 way valve & to be honest I don't think it's of much use. True the OP takes a few seconds to come up but there's little load on the engine whilst waiting. For a top mount I used a jubilee clip around the chassis & intertwined this with the big clip around the tank. Just use some old rad hose to protect the powder coat. Oh & the early 90's K series alternator may need some fettling to fit around the hoses or use a longer alternator belt but mind it doesn't knock on the chassis. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Thanks guys 7heavensoon, Starter button received and fitted in position where irritating redundant Vectre slot used to be. I feel like biggles when I start it now ❗ Mick, Thanks for the advice. I'll have a go at fitting it at the next oil change. I bought the tank second hand with a pin hole near one of the unions. This has been welded and reinforced around both inlet and outlet conections with webs. I will also adapt a socket to hold the ally hex when undoing the drain plug. I've milled off the 2 redundent Rover engine mount lugs near the cam belt cover to make a bit more room around that area (I also wanted to try my new milling machine). Looks like I'll need to take my time over fitting the Apollo. Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Bruce - glad you got it fitted See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Edited by - 7heavensoon on 24 Mar 2007 07:53:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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