julians Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 Whats a good general starting point for the amount of ignition advance at cranking speeds? Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 Which engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 29, 2002 Author Share Posted March 29, 2002 2.0 zetec. And does it make much difference depending on the state of tune of the engine. I use a DTA ecu, and this doesent appear to have anywhere to set the cranking advance precisely. There is a startup enrichment map for fuelling, but no startup map for ignition. The only way to set it appears to be via an option called 'firing tooth on startup' which refers to how many teeth on the crank timing wheel before TDC should it fire, and as the wheel only has 36 teeth, this would appear to let me set it to 0 deg, 10 deg, 20 deg ,30 deg etc etc rather than precise amounts. Can anyone else who has a DTA ecu confirm this? Edited by - julians on 29 Mar 2002 19:08:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 For any pent roof 4 valve 5-8 degrees, any more and you risk kick-back. The idle advance is affected by how hot the cams are , but not the cranking. Oily Edited by - oilyhands on 29 Mar 2002 19:25:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 JS, who does your mapping? Cooper West in Urmston do tricky DTA maps.... X777CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 29, 2002 Author Share Posted March 29, 2002 Ric Woods in stockport mapped it for the new cams recently, did a good job too once they had realised their new dial guage was calibrated in different units to the old one. I went to visit cooper west last year to suss them out , to see if I would trust them with my car. They took it for a quick spin, and pronounced that my gearbox was shagged because it was whining a lot (its a straight cut box), needless to say I didnt let them loose on the car. They seem to be a bit boy racer'esque, they were promising all sorts of things from their rolling road (+10bhp no matter what, that sort of thing), the sort of things the nova boys love. I got bad vibes from them. Edited by - julians on 29 Mar 2002 23:23:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 We would probably use around 10 degrees on a Zetec, so long as your starting system is in good fettle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 We would probably use around 10 degrees on a Zetec, so long as your starting system is in good fettle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 30, 2002 Author Share Posted March 30, 2002 Thanks for the answers, I'll give it a whirl. On another note, the engine has difficulty idling after its been thrashed for a few minutes,but once it has been driven gently for a couple of minutes it will idle perfectly again. Also it will be idling perfectly once its all warmed up, but if you momentarily switch it off and then back on again it wont idle until it has been driven round gently for a bit. Its on throttle bodies and a DTA 3D ecu, it doesent have any form of idle control. I've had a look at the ecu when its started to play up, but I'm not getting any funny readings on anything, ie throttle pot is reading OK and there are no errors from the crank sensor. Any ideas where I should be looking? I was thinking it could be due to an air leak on the inlet manifold, but I dont know why this would occur after it has been thrashed or just after re-starting up. Edited by - Julians on 30 Mar 2002 17:24:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted March 31, 2002 Share Posted March 31, 2002 No worries, I think it depends who you let look at the car wink.gif I know one of the guys there and he is very good, but if you already know someone you had best stick to them,,, dont suppose they do K series work do they? X777CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 31, 2002 Share Posted March 31, 2002 It might be a temperature related issue. If you thrash it, things are going to warm up and if you switch off you will get heat soak. Do you have an air temperature sensor on the system and if so, is it possible that it positioned so that it might be fooled into giving unreasonable output under these conditions? If so, it is possible that your air temp correction curve is altering the fuelling or ignition by an amount that won't let the engine idle. Idling is always the most difficult thing for an engine to do, so is the first to be affected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 31, 2002 Author Share Posted March 31, 2002 There is no air temperature sensor, the only sensors are water temp, crank position and Throttle position, but these all seem to giving correct values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 Then in that case, it could be that you need one in order to correct matters when heat builds up. I'm not saying that this is definitely your problem but we often see a similar problem on the rolling road with carburettor cars that won't idle after a bit of a pasting - push them out into the fresh air and leave for 5 minutes and the idle comes back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted April 1, 2002 Author Share Posted April 1, 2002 Thanks for the advice, I might try getting hold of one and see if it makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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