bobt Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Hi, As my new engine is now built and running it'll need running in, but how many miles should I look to do before its put on the rollers for mapping? The omega pistons have had new rings but staying with their original bores which have been honed. Its also got new shells all round and new cams. The problem is that the MOT expires this week so I won't be able to put any miles on the car until thats done. What do I do? Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Rake the 🙆🏻 out of it what else What is this running in you talk about. jj N.I. L7C AR. Membership No.3927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 I built my 240BHP K drove it to race track did a track day then drove to Emerald and rollered it then drove it flat out 4000 miles across States and its still going strong with oil pressure off the scale There is just so much garbage talked about running in. This is 2007 not 1907. jj jj N.I. L7C AR. Membership No.3927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 Bob, exactly had the same as you last week. brand new 1900K (DVA) and my MOT had run out. made sure car was running ok, put cat back on then took to mot station and leaned off fueling to get through via emerald. new MOT with only 38 miles on the clock Now for running in, which i will take it careful for 500miles then ramp up toward 1000 or 1st March whichever is sooner as thats when Dave Walker will get his hands on it *smokin*" class="smiley" /> Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now known as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 MY view for what its worth - You need to use the engine from the word go. Up to 5k and medium Load for the first 250 miles and then an oil change Full revs building progressively to full load for the next 250 miles then an oil change then full revs and full loads of fun 😬 If you dont use the engine the rings will not bed in to the bores and you wont get the most BHP from it. Just my view .............. and with 183 bhp from a 1.6 it seems to have worked for me *smokin*" class="smiley" /> Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Edited by - oldbutnotslow on 13 Feb 2007 08:10:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 The first time my new engine will run again is on Dave's rollers. You're more likely to treat it too lightly and glaze the bores in such a light car rather than do any harm - as long as it's all warmed up, go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted February 13, 2007 Author Share Posted February 13, 2007 Fair enough Anybody know of a Caterham frendly MOT station in the west london area ? Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted February 13, 2007 Author Share Posted February 13, 2007 No bother, found some with the aid of the search. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 run in with mineral and not synthetic or semi synthetic oil, otherwise your bores and rings won't bed in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Paul Hi! I read with interest your remark 'run in with mineral and not synthetic or semi synthetic oil, otherwise your bores and rings won't bed in' How does the oil affect the bedding of the rings? Something I'll need to consider in the next few weeks! Thanks Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Synthetic or semi synth is far too slippy and dosn't give the rings a chance to bed in. That is also why you shouldn't gently run in an engine as all you'll do is polish the bores. There is only one way to run in a new engine IMHO and I've stated it on here till I'm blue in the face. Build the engine in operating theatre conditions, gap the rings individually to the bores fill the engine with a base minelal oil, start it bring all temps [oil and water] up to correct level ,then take it out and thrash the nuts off it keeping a carefull eye on your fluid temps. It's worked for me for the past 40 yrs. 😶🌫️ jj N.I. L7C AR. Membership No.3927. Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 18 Feb 2007 23:07:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Ian wot Johnty said! The newly honed bores need to be run in (worn) to match the much harder steel rings. Synthetic oil won't let this happen and is one of the reasons why modern engines last anything from two to ten times as long as engines in the cars of twenty years or more ago. A few hundred spirited miles and then an oil change to the lubricant of your choice. As I've mentioned before it is also really essential that new cams and/or followers are run in properly at about 2500rpm for at least 15 minutes and not allowed to idle during that time, otherwise they will not work-harden and will wear prematurely. And don't forget the cam lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I mentioned Johntys advice while chatting to Aaron at HT Racing (he who builds Dave Edmunds engines) He said the over the years he realised the best engines (strongest and most powerful/most wins) were the ones built in a rush just before a race meeting. They usually get "run in" during practice and qualifying He said they then go on perform really well all season and when stripped in the off season, have no noticable wear. I followed Johntys and Aarons advice when running in the Zetec. Started it, let it get fully up to temp by some very gentle driving around. As soon as it was hot enough, I proceded to progressively thrash the nuts off it. Increasing both the revs, the load and the 😬 factor. The engine now runs like a dream, pulls very cleanly and doesn't smoke at all. Steve SE7EN-UP! The funny thing about this signature is, by the time you realise it says nothing, it's too late to stop reading it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Johnty, I can partly agree with you that it is certainly not a good idea to treat a new engine too gently intially as you run the risk of glazing up the bores. However I certainly do not think that its a good idea to thrash any new engine with base mineral oil as its lubricant. This will lead to premature wear, especially in a highly tuned engine where a base mineral oil must be considered to be an inadequate lubricant. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonbell Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 As johnty said keep an eye on temps..............if the oil is getting too hot then you obviously back off a bit. I think what jj is saying is don`t pussy foot around with it............ My engine was built and run in as per jj`s method..........he's not the only one who told me to do it this way..........mine was actually run in on track at a test session. It`s now done 9000 miles with no problems........... Personally I don`t know how anyone can drive a seven easily for 500 or 1000 miles anyway Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Interesting posts chaps - sadly I'm still stuck in a rut with no chance of being able to legaly drive it. I rang Emerald today and was told that the next available slot was is May. Yes thats right MAY !!!! The car is sat there in the garage raring to go with an mot that expired a week ago ☹️. The map DVA gave me seems pretty close but its hard to tell cos I can't drive it. I assume there is no point booking for an MOT until its mapped. Bunch of 🙆🏻 really. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 don't fret! I have just done the same thing, pre warn the MOT station that you may have to "tweek" the fuelling to pass, I done this and passed and it only took a few minutes to adjust very very easy (obviously you need to put the cat back on) just lean off the relevant map areas. No need to wait!! Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now known as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Rob I've never known two engine builders to agree I think you took my posting too literally I did say to constantly watch the oil and water temps and pressure and it must be remembered that for years before we had synth many many engines not built to the high stds we now build our engines won many races and lasted every bit as well on mineral oil In the 50 and 60s I built engines for rally cars minis and MK1 escorts and ran them to within an inch of their life on a certain very popular green minearal oil. 😬I also on to-days engines change the mineral oil at 500 miles and again at 1000 So it takes all off the effluent out with it and the harmfull distillates. Every one to his own 😶🌫️ jj N.I. L7C AR. Membership No.3927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 Well it passed (just) I took the powerspeed 4-2-1 off and replaced it with the original cat exhaust. I went to a local place in the end. I wouldn't touch this place with a barge pole normally and certainly would never leave a car alone with them. But as they are the closest (less than 5mins) I figured it would be handy if I needed to pop back home quicky to sort something out. But, it all worked to my advantage in the end. The car checked out phsically, only having issues with the emissions which was expected. After a few attempts I got the CO2 down but the lamda was still not within limits. A bit more playing saw the lamda right but the CO2 up . 15mins later we were forced to give up as the hot exhaust melted his probe 😬 Now when it stops raining I'll be able to give it a go. Didn't really get the chance with the standard cat exhaust as it felt completely gutless. From a similar spec K (dva head, TBs, 285Hs etc) I'd had before on another car that too felt the same when having to swap back to MOT exhaust. Don't know if I want to wait just over another 2 months to get it mapped at emerald. May give TracknRoad a call and see if they can do it any sooner. Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 Well, just got back from quick local blat Oh yes - thats more like it very happy Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now